Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread >

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree172Likes

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-20-2018, 09:42 AM
  #14776  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
 
OverGeared's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Deep in the Heart of Texas
Posts: 473
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default RB7 as per NeoBuggy

Originally Posted by scoobyrs25
Anyone else see the RB7 post on Instagram today?
Kyosho RB7 1/10th 2wd buggy kit -NeoBuggy.net ? Offroad RC Car News
OverGeared is offline  
Old 07-20-2018, 10:44 AM
  #14777  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 119
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Thanks. Have you guys noticed any adjustments that you find will instantly change the car compared to others? I know on some chassis some adjustments are more or less effective compared to the same adjustment on another chassis. What is your common starting point for adjusting the car?
lowdoughracer is offline  
Old 07-21-2018, 10:25 AM
  #14778  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 180
Default

Originally Posted by lowdoughracer
Thanks. Have you guys noticed any adjustments that you find will instantly change the car compared to others? I know on some chassis some adjustments are more or less effective compared to the same adjustment on another chassis. What is your common starting point for adjusting the car?
I’m excited for the new car. Based on the pictures it looks like we can carryover many important parts. I’m still going to keep my 6.6 four gear car for the very low grip. Going to get one of these for carpet and clay

I always wonder about these new cars and low grip. It seems they’re outside of their tuning window with low grip but have a much higher potential for speed at a greater cost of the driveability. Then again driving in the middle of a tuning window is comfortable with a lower upside. Thoughts on this topic are welcome.

I wonder what the compatibility with the current transmissions is and if they are using the same differential.
nitro-rob is offline  
Old 07-23-2018, 10:19 AM
  #14779  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 119
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by nitro-rob


I’m excited for the new car. Based on the pictures it looks like we can carryover many important parts. I’m still going to keep my 6.6 four gear car for the very low grip. Going to get one of these for carpet and clay

I always wonder about these new cars and low grip. It seems they’re outside of their tuning window with low grip but have a much higher potential for speed at a greater cost of the driveability. Then again driving in the middle of a tuning window is comfortable with a lower upside. Thoughts on this topic are welcome.

I wonder what the compatibility with the current transmissions is and if they are using the same differential.
I've wondered about this as well. Is it worth running a car that is on the edge and not as comfortable, but have a much higher potential for fast lap times, or is it better to sacrifice that upside for comfortability and possible more consistency depending on the driver. For a beginner learning to drive off road for the first time is that comfortability worth far more than what they sacrifice with the upside and having to possibly buy another car in the future if they run on different track conditions, or is it worth more to run the car that could be on edge but faster potentially? The newer driver might not have any bad habits in their driving and it may be quicker for them to learn control needed than relearn how to drive later. Your thoughts on that?
lowdoughracer is offline  
Old 07-23-2018, 12:17 PM
  #14780  
Tech Regular
 
Gayosaka's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: France, near Paris
Posts: 340
Default

I think that for anyone but the very best drivers, confortability = faster times everytime on a 5 minutes races.

The RB7 seems to be rather medium-grip, dirt-track focused though, with a ball diff and a shorter and softer chassis. I may convert my two RB6s!

Last edited by Gayosaka; 07-23-2018 at 08:28 PM.
Gayosaka is offline  
Old 07-23-2018, 08:16 PM
  #14781  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
 
ceh329's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 700
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Hi all, hey I’m going to setup my RB6.6 using the 4 gear mid. I’ve been running on a loose dirt track and many of the faster drivers for AE and Losi are running mid not lay down. I want to give it a try. So my question is how do I mount my motor fan? In lay down there is room on the chassis but not when running mid stand up.

thanks!
ceh329 is offline  
Old 07-24-2018, 01:37 AM
  #14782  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 180
Default

Originally Posted by lowdoughracer
I've wondered about this as well. Is it worth running a car that is on the edge and not as comfortable, but have a much higher potential for fast lap times, or is it better to sacrifice that upside for comfortability and possible more consistency depending on the driver. For a beginner learning to drive off road for the first time is that comfortability worth far more than what they sacrifice with the upside and having to possibly buy another car in the future if they run on different track conditions, or is it worth more to run the car that could be on edge but faster potentially? The newer driver might not have any bad habits in their driving and it may be quicker for them to learn control needed than relearn how to drive later. Your thoughts on that?
I think you articulated the trade offs well. As far as the beginner my guess is that the frustration of driving that car will be high for a while before their lack of bad habits are an advantage. I would consider it for my son if he wanted to really go at this. I’m more interested in the easier driving cars since I don’t get to practice much or at all. I really noticed it when a lot of guys went from plastic chassis team c cars to yokomos on our very low grip surface.

Shapeways has a mm waterfall that holds a fan.
nitro-rob is offline  
Old 07-24-2018, 06:44 AM
  #14783  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 119
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

So for starting out with this car, what are the must haves to race well, without breaking the bank? What option parts do you guys think are necessary, and what spare parts are necessary? What else are you adding or replacing that helps?
lowdoughracer is offline  
Old 07-24-2018, 08:03 AM
  #14784  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (38)
 
dmcguire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 424
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by lowdoughracer
So for starting out with this car, what are the must haves to race well, without breaking the bank? What option parts do you guys think are necessary, and what spare parts are necessary? What else are you adding or replacing that helps?
The two biggest things I like to have on this car are an aluminum from pivot block (bulkhead) and some extra Caster blocks. If you can get a hold of a set of Exotek aluminum caster blocks, I'd say go that route.

I run into some weird issues of randomly breaking shock bottoms as well. So if you can get spares of the long, mediums and shorts, they're good to have as well.

Depending on what surface your running on, appropriate springs as well.
dmcguire is offline  
Old 07-24-2018, 09:21 AM
  #14785  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 119
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Do you prefer aluminum shock caps for running on dirt as well over the plastic caps that are being released on the RB7?
lowdoughracer is offline  
Old 07-24-2018, 10:44 AM
  #14786  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (38)
 
dmcguire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 424
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by lowdoughracer
Do you prefer aluminum shock caps for running on dirt as well over the plastic caps that are being released on the RB7?
To be completely honest, I have the aluminum ones on my dirt RB6 and my ZX6 because they came with them. On my Carpet/Turf RB6.6, I actually have my old ZX5 shock caps that are a plastic cap with the aluminum collar that threads on. Again, because it's what I had (pieced the car together from spares). I was going to switch over to some plastic caps I found in my box just to try, but can only find 3. Not sure if they are any different than the new RB7 ones, I think they're extra parts from when I bought the Big Bore shocks that are on my carpet car.

Being as you're on dirt, if you can find them, try the plastics, they "say" they'll help. I can't imagine they are going to be a night and day "upgrade" however. I would think that the aluminum pieces are more durable, and may be wise to run until you're more comfortable with the car.

But if you do try the plastics, report back and let us know what you think. Be very interested to see if you notice a difference, good or bad.
dmcguire is offline  
Old 07-24-2018, 06:03 PM
  #14787  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 119
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by dmcguire
To be completely honest, I have the aluminum ones on my dirt RB6 and my ZX6 because they came with them. On my Carpet/Turf RB6.6, I actually have my old ZX5 shock caps that are a plastic cap with the aluminum collar that threads on. Again, because it's what I had (pieced the car together from spares). I was going to switch over to some plastic caps I found in my box just to try, but can only find 3. Not sure if they are any different than the new RB7 ones, I think they're extra parts from when I bought the Big Bore shocks that are on my carpet car.

Being as you're on dirt, if you can find them, try the plastics, they "say" they'll help. I can't imagine they are going to be a night and day "upgrade" however. I would think that the aluminum pieces are more durable, and may be wise to run until you're more comfortable with the car.

But if you do try the plastics, report back and let us know what you think. Be very interested to see if you notice a difference, good or bad.
I appreciate the feedback on that. I was under the impression that the aluminum caps were better for not blowing apart if you were to wreck, which I'm sure I would do as an inexperienced driver. What is the benefits on dirt of the plastics caps over the aluminum?
lowdoughracer is offline  
Old 07-25-2018, 12:09 AM
  #14788  
Tech Fanatic
 
lexusbest's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Vizcaya, Spain
Posts: 751
Default

Originally Posted by lowdoughracer
I appreciate the feedback on that. I was under the impression that the aluminum caps were better for not blowing apart if you were to wreck, which I'm sure I would do as an inexperienced driver. What is the benefits on dirt of the plastics caps over the aluminum?
i have heard before about plastic shock caps on carpet/astro. I think it's about flex capabilities. Nothing you should worry about. Aluminum parts are bankers. If you take care of your shocks it's fine.
lexusbest is offline  
Old 07-25-2018, 02:08 AM
  #14789  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 180
Default

Originally Posted by dmcguire
The two biggest things I like to have on this car are an aluminum from pivot block (bulkhead) and some extra Caster blocks. If you can get a hold of a set of Exotek aluminum caster blocks, I'd say go that route.

I run into some weird issues of randomly breaking shock bottoms as well. So if you can get spares of the long, mediums and shorts, they're good to have as well.

Depending on what surface your running on, appropriate springs as well.
I recommend the brass front hinge pin brace. Aluminum steering rack as well. Never had problems with castor blocks myself and shock bottoms for sure. The car is pretty durable and will break randomly with really hard hits. My cars are almost all originalmplastic after three years.
nitro-rob is offline  
Old 07-25-2018, 02:13 AM
  #14790  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 180
Default

Originally Posted by lowdoughracer
I appreciate the feedback on that. I was under the impression that the aluminum caps were better for not blowing apart if you were to wreck, which I'm sure I would do as an inexperienced driver. What is the benefits on dirt of the plastics caps over the aluminum?
There isn’t a noticeable difference. Tried the plastic caps to get to wait on a stock buggy. I don’t break a lot but think the caps were t sred pretty hard and there were no issues. I see why they cut weight and cost on the shower caps on the new kit. It puts focus on areas where they could put extra cost into the car that were needed like the aluminum hinge pin braces.

I kept my aluminum caps for the new kit though.
nitro-rob is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.