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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-19-2018, 10:40 AM
  #14581  
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Originally Posted by wisconsinbasher View Post
I saw this too on his and on Rodgers car. Wonder why they switched??
WEll for me,I noticed Cav and BT using them on their B6’s. They said it gave the car a lower cg. For kyosho owners,it makes it easier to bleed and tune your shocks. And broken shock caps are almost a non issue these days,especially for the rb6 since the front shocks are behind the tower... Be care threading the caps on
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Old 01-19-2018, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by k_chris View Post
is there anyone here running the yokomo gullwing front arms on the 6.6? I think the b6 arms work also but the yokomo arms are stronger. if anyone is running them can someone share pics or a link ? thanks
Carpet guys use the b6 fronts,supposed to be the hot ticket.. not sure about yoke
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Old 01-19-2018, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by hairymuffin View Post
WEll for me,I noticed Cav and BT using them on their B6s. They said it gave the car a lower cg. For kyosho owners,it makes it easier to bleed and tune your shocks. And broken shock caps are almost a non issue these days,especially for the rb6 since the front shocks are behind the tower... Be care threading the caps on
Isn't that interesting. Anyone got a weight difference between aluminum and plastic shock caps with the screw in it? I can't believe it's more than 2 or 3 grams.
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Old 01-19-2018, 11:03 PM
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I wouldn’t think it’s much lighter either, but really it’s a no brainer. Bleeder caps are much easier. Bleeder screw is easy to strip if not careful. They just don’t seem beefy compared to others. But so far no problems
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Old 01-20-2018, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by k_chris View Post
is there anyone here running the yokomo gullwing front arms on the 6.6? I think the b6 arms work also but the yokomo arms are stronger. if anyone is running them can someone share pics or a link ? thanks
I use the associated B6 gull wing arms (part #ASC91674) with yellow hard springs and 37.5 w in front. Steering feels less aggressive and able to get very low ride height without compromising shock setup. Not sure what kind of pics your looking for.



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Old 01-20-2018, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post

Anyway I'm testing it. 10 grams bolted to the hub.

Got to test this out tonight. It didn't work. Tested it back to back. Took the weight off the hub and put it on the chassis and it was faster. Then piled some more weight on the chassis and faster still. Fun experiment though.
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Old 01-21-2018, 01:24 PM
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Lose the weight and go to softer springs, its what the car is telling you
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Old 01-21-2018, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 30Tooth View Post
Lose the weight and go to softer springs, its what the car is telling you
I'm on pinks all around. 30wt front and rear. 1.6 and 1.7 pistons.

It kept getting better with more lead on it.
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Old 01-21-2018, 02:02 PM
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Nothing wrong with weight
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Old 01-21-2018, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
I'm on pinks all around. 30wt front and rear. 1.6 and 1.7 pistons.

It kept getting better with more lead on it.
And where are the shocks mounted on the arms?

Originally Posted by hairymuffin View Post
Nothing wrong with weight
Permission to disagree sir. More weight to carry around is bad for every performance parameter, less weight and corrected spring rate is always faster.
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Old 01-21-2018, 02:19 PM
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also any weight outside the spring is unsprung weight and bad.
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Old 01-21-2018, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 30Tooth View Post
And where are the shocks mounted on the arms?
All the way out on the front. All the way in on the rear.

Originally Posted by 30Tooth View Post
Permission to disagree sir. More weight to carry around is bad for every performance parameter, less weight and corrected spring rate is always faster.
Permission to disagree with your disagree, to a point...

ALL the pro's use weight in off-road. Everyone uses weight in off-road. One big BIG variable we cannot control is tire pressure. We can cut foams and punch holes in foams but after they're put together there's no adjustment. It seems like you can fine tune this with weight.
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Old 01-21-2018, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
All the way out on the front. All the way in on the rear.



Permission to disagree with your disagree, to a point...

ALL the pro's use weight in off-road. Everyone uses weight in off-road. One big BIG variable we cannot control is tire pressure. We can cut foams and punch holes in foams but after they're put together there's no adjustment. It seems like you can fine tune this with weight.
Did you try in on the front?

Permission granted, allow me to explain this entire situation. Tire pressure is set by insert type used, it's a one time deal, you set the stiffness and then you tune the entire car around that. You can/should set stiffness to the load that end is supposed to carry, softer for less weight and stiffer for more weight. Made a click? What your car is telling is that the insert stiffness is too high for the weight it carries, that's why all of who tries less weight says the car doesn't work as well. The two stiffness components have to be set together (ride and roll) to caress the tire. That's also why some say the inserts have to be break in, the only change they inserts go through is getting softer from use. I bet when those tires are bald the inserts will work wonders on new tires.

Using less weight will net more grip if the stiffnesses are right.
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Old 01-21-2018, 04:47 PM
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I guess you know more than the rest of us? I have very little weight added to my car, but I do have the brass rf block(weight). Also, we are not all on the same type of surface, not to mention stock vs mod. It kinda hard to give advice on setup when we don’t know all the little details.
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Old 01-21-2018, 04:53 PM
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This is not a yokomo but some of their mod setups have as much as 126g of weight... not sure what other brand of cars guys are adding weight?
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