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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0į/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-05-2018, 02:13 PM
  #14566  
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Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
Front camber links are as short as they go already.
Rear camber links I can do.
So raise the outer and lower the inner and shorter for increased side bite?
I've read both ways. I downloaded the AE cheat sheet and it's very misleading on this adjustment....
98% of setup sheets I've seen only use the inner hole on the arm but I'm open to try anything. Anything but the inner hole is for carpet only when looking at setup sheets.

Thanks for the reply! I really hope I can make a noticeable difference.

I've been looking at other platforms. Closely. So many things line up across multiple platforms. Wheelbase. Front kick-up. Front caster angle. Rear toe. Antisquat. Battery placement. Placement of the electronics. Placement of the servo and the layout of the steering rack. There are also a lot of variables that are unknown unless you actually have one and can measure them. These are what makes them different. Chassis thickness and how it flexes is a big one. Hence cutting off the KYO waterfall compared to the AE twisty flex waterfall. AE actually made a running production change because the chassis was so lightweight people were bending the chassis consistently. Side guard stiffness. It goes on and on...

One thing I do take note of is how small and light KYO is on the rear hubs and front carriers compared to others. AE has huge rear hubs and bearings and huge front C blocks and spindle carriers. This is unsprung weight. I've read about KYO guys adding clay to the wheels just to increase unsprung weight for traction. Just like putting weights inside a tractor wheel. Traction. To me this is the missing link. Unsprung weight is not the enemy. Unsprung weight is traction.

Thoughts?
Unsprung weight is never a good thing. There is always a better answer than adding unsprung weight. Why do you believe it is good for traction? Lets hear the physics.
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Old 01-05-2018, 03:00 PM
  #14567  
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Originally Posted by AntH3000 View Post
Unsprung weight is never a good thing. There is always a better answer than adding unsprung weight. Why do you believe it is good for traction? Lets hear the physics.
Happy New Year!

Whoever comes up with a suspension design that works everywhere all the time is going to be the richest person ever!

@Paul, you always have to give something if the car is set up well. More unsprung weight isn't the answer, the answer is keeping the tire well positioned and loaded most of the time. I've said this countless times, the front to rear wheel rate on 2wd buggies is backwards, the front is too stiff compared to the rear. To test this try moving the front shocks in on the lower arm and the rear shocks out on the lower arm and see if improves your situation(my experience tells me it's your issue).
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Old 01-05-2018, 08:11 PM
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hey guys, please see the image below, and im sorry if someone has already asked this.

Im somewhat messing around here, and lowering my weight, but, the back adapter pieces that are gone on my picture, and its just basically the motor and the block underneath - di you this that will work fine? the pieces i literally took off where two bracks, the front one with two posts, and the rear stuff by the motor the battery tucks into.

The reason i wanted to try this, is because im trying to do double sided tape on the battery and put it in a further back location.

thanks

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Old 01-06-2018, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by AntH3000 View Post
Unsprung weight is never a good thing. There is always a better answer than adding unsprung weight. Why do you believe it is good for traction? Lets hear the physics.
I don't know. I just don't know. It's just really obvious to me that AE made their unsprung weight heavier on purpose. Their hubs and carriers are way bigger than they need to be. I feel like it's dependant on the tire. A balance. More unsprung will force the tire to absorb the bump rather than deflect? I think of a heavy tire versus a light tire rolling on a track. Which one will bounce off the bumps and which one will absorb them?

Anyway I'm testing it. 10 grams bolted to the hub.

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Old 01-07-2018, 03:42 AM
  #14570  
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Are you struggling that much for traction? Indoor? Consider a softer tire? Sometimes the LD tranny is not for everyone or everyone’s style of track/surface....
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Old 01-07-2018, 03:45 AM
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hope someone can help me out here on the photo above.... thanks
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Old 01-07-2018, 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by rawjahdesigns View Post
hope someone can help me out here on the photo above.... thanks
It will work without the water fall, in fact guys are running it that way to help with traction(fchassis flex).
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Old 01-10-2018, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
I don't know. I just don't know. It's just really obvious to me that AE made their unsprung weight heavier on purpose. Their hubs and carriers are way bigger than they need to be. I feel like it's dependant on the tire. A balance. More unsprung will force the tire to absorb the bump rather than deflect? I think of a heavy tire versus a light tire rolling on a track. Which one will bounce off the bumps and which one will absorb them?

Anyway I'm testing it. 10 grams bolted to the hub.

I seriously doubt AE will have done that to deliberately increase unsprung mass. Probably more to due with durability and/or stiffness reasons. Ah well, have fun trying stuff out!
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Old 01-11-2018, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by hairymuffin View Post
It will work without the water fall, in fact guys are running it that way to help with traction(fchassis flex).
awesome wanted to see what you guys thought.. yes i heard about the more flex. so good to hear that again immediately in a response. thanks!

any other secrets or where to go to find the secrets?!? we are 2 weeks new to 1/10 rb.6. love it stock and i know its got so much more.
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Old 01-11-2018, 10:31 PM
  #14575  
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Originally Posted by rawjahdesigns View Post
awesome wanted to see what you guys thought.. yes i heard about the more flex. so good to hear that again immediately in a response. thanks!

any other secrets or where to go to find the secrets?!? we are 2 weeks new to 1/10 rb.6. love it stock and i know its got so much more.
Depends on what surface you race on, most guys that run 17.5 stock always use the 3 gear trans. Itís a really solid car,eventually you will break the steering slider. Get an aluminum one,the other arms are not as important. Other stuff is tuning, not really any special things to be done on this car. Every car on the market needs some kind of upgrade part to be a full on race machine. But nothing special,enjoy
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Old 01-19-2018, 02:18 AM
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is there anyone here running the yokomo gullwing front arms on the 6.6? I think the b6 arms work also but the yokomo arms are stronger. if anyone is running them can someone share pics or a link ? thanks
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Old 01-19-2018, 08:50 AM
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Most recent pics of Tebo’s car he is running the plastic bleeder caps. I thought I was the only one running them. I like the caps but compared to yokes and ae, the kyosho threads are too fine and easy to cross thread.
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Old 01-19-2018, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by hairymuffin View Post
Most recent pics of Teboís car he is running the plastic bleeder caps. I thought I was the only one running them. I like the caps but compared to yokes and ae, the kyosho threads are too fine and easy to cross thread.
I saw this too on his and on Rodgers car. Wonder why they switched??
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Old 01-19-2018, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by rawjahdesigns View Post
hey guys, please see the image below, and im sorry if someone has already asked this.

Im somewhat messing around here, and lowering my weight, but, the back adapter pieces that are gone on my picture, and its just basically the motor and the block underneath - di you this that will work fine? the pieces i literally took off where two bracks, the front one with two posts, and the rear stuff by the motor the battery tucks into.

The reason i wanted to try this, is because im trying to do double sided tape on the battery and put it in a further back location.

thanks

I switched my car to no water fall and made a huge improvment on my track. But I did not move the battery all the way back it's about 17mm away from the motor . I'm running pink rear white front springs and it's a rocket.
Also using the rear front brass hanger
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Old 01-19-2018, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by wisconsinbasher View Post
I switched my car to no water fall and made a huge improvment on my track. But I did not move the battery all the way back it's about 17mm away from the motor . I'm running pink rear white front springs and it's a rocket.
Also using the rear front brass hanger
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