Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Things that affect on-power rear grip are:
-Rear toe angle ( more is more, less is less)
-front droop (more is more, less is less)
-front sway bar (harder is more, softer or none is less... dunno how you're gonna fit one to a rb6)
-anti squat (more is less, less is more)
-Roll centre (lower is more, higher is less)
-tires (stickier/grippier is more, vice Versa)
-the rest do affect as well, but the two main things are tires and rear toe.
-Rear toe angle ( more is more, less is less)
-front droop (more is more, less is less)
-front sway bar (harder is more, softer or none is less... dunno how you're gonna fit one to a rb6)
-anti squat (more is less, less is more)
-Roll centre (lower is more, higher is less)
-tires (stickier/grippier is more, vice Versa)
-the rest do affect as well, but the two main things are tires and rear toe.
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Standing the rear shocks up is also another option. Go out on the tower or in on the arm.
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Last edited by JAE; 03-26-2017 at 01:33 AM.
Is anyone using bumpsteer shims to change the steering radius?looking for tighter turning in 180's and currently running zero bumpsteer shims.
Caster, Bumpsteer, and Ackerman math.
I decided to break out my hudy setup station, and my 2mm hex, and do some measuring for our setup sheets. Lets start with bumpsteer and caster.
Bumpsteer - bumpsteer is what happens when you induce either more toe in, or more toe out, as the front suspension compresses. (bump-in, or bump-out). You can change how much or little bumpsteer you have by controlling the vertical angle of the steering turnbuckles. The more vertical the steering link goes as the suspension compresses, the more the turnbuckle will pull the steering block inwards, inducing bump out. So to reduce bump-out, you have to reduce the height of the ballstud on the turnblock. If you get bump-in, that means you need to raise the height of the ballstud.
What some people don't realize, is that changing caster, changes the relative height of the ballstud / turnblock, because more caster rotates the turnblock backwards, so it drops the ear/stud closer to the ground. So if you run 25 caster and set your bumpsteer to 0 (no bump in or bump out), and then decide to change your caster to 30, you actually dropped the height of the ballstud by 2mm. So I did a lot of testing and measuring just to make sure that the numbers are accurate. For ZERO bumpsteer:
Ackerman - Ackerman affect is the difference between the turning radius of the inside wheel, and the outside wheel, in a corner. Because the inside of the car will natually track along a smaller circle, to maximize steering and minimize a slip angle, the angle of the tires need to match the steering radius. If you have too little ackerman, or too much, the slip angle means one tire is sliding instead of rolling, reducing steering.
I tested just two ackerman settings on the steering rack just for my own info, and got the following:
zero change in ackerman. Might have something to do with the fact that the steering turnbuckkles are right about flat, straight across /perpendicular to the chassis. I think ill test again later with my plastic steering rack to make sure it's not my alu version. More to come.
I decided to break out my hudy setup station, and my 2mm hex, and do some measuring for our setup sheets. Lets start with bumpsteer and caster.
Bumpsteer - bumpsteer is what happens when you induce either more toe in, or more toe out, as the front suspension compresses. (bump-in, or bump-out). You can change how much or little bumpsteer you have by controlling the vertical angle of the steering turnbuckles. The more vertical the steering link goes as the suspension compresses, the more the turnbuckle will pull the steering block inwards, inducing bump out. So to reduce bump-out, you have to reduce the height of the ballstud on the turnblock. If you get bump-in, that means you need to raise the height of the ballstud.
What some people don't realize, is that changing caster, changes the relative height of the ballstud / turnblock, because more caster rotates the turnblock backwards, so it drops the ear/stud closer to the ground. So if you run 25 caster and set your bumpsteer to 0 (no bump in or bump out), and then decide to change your caster to 30, you actually dropped the height of the ballstud by 2mm. So I did a lot of testing and measuring just to make sure that the numbers are accurate. For ZERO bumpsteer:
- 25 caster = 0mm washer under turnblock ballstud
- 27 caster = 1mm washer under turnblock ballstud
- 30 caster = 2mm washer under turnblock ballstud
Ackerman - Ackerman affect is the difference between the turning radius of the inside wheel, and the outside wheel, in a corner. Because the inside of the car will natually track along a smaller circle, to maximize steering and minimize a slip angle, the angle of the tires need to match the steering radius. If you have too little ackerman, or too much, the slip angle means one tire is sliding instead of rolling, reducing steering.
I tested just two ackerman settings on the steering rack just for my own info, and got the following:
- 0mm under steering rack ballstud = 30deg and 23deg
- 1mm under steering rack ballstud = 30deg and 23deg
zero change in ackerman. Might have something to do with the fact that the steering turnbuckkles are right about flat, straight across /perpendicular to the chassis. I think ill test again later with my plastic steering rack to make sure it's not my alu version. More to come.
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Anyone know when the new kyosho rb6.6 carbon battery strap will be available?
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I cut the end off a drill bit to make the pins. #45 and #46 drills. Start with the smaller one and if it doesn't press tight use bigger one. There's only .001" between them and sizes vary by a few .0001" so it's nice to have micrometers. Once you get one side of the pin pushed to the axle you can twist it out with vice grips. I drilled a hole just bigger than the pin in a piece of steel to lay the axle on and let the pin come through. I have a small hand press at work but I've seen little pin drivers you can buy. I think a bicycle chain pin driver could be made to work.
Vision racing adjustable carbon front tower
Anyone try these? They are 5mm, having 5 option holes and can also be regular or plus 2 height. I'm concerned the holes are too close together and would wear/strip. Nice to have the adjustability and I've broke a couple JTP towers anyhow.
http://liverc.com/news/new_products/...uning_options/
http://liverc.com/news/new_products/...uning_options/
Last edited by Kraig; 04-08-2017 at 03:35 PM.
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Anyone try these? They are 5mm, having 5 option holes and can also be regular or plus 2 height. I'm concerned the holes are too close together and would wear/strip. Nice to have the adjustability and I've broke a couple JTP towers anyhow.
Vision Racing RB6 front shock tower offers additional tuning options :: LiveRC.com - R/C Car News, Pictures, Videos, and More
Vision Racing RB6 front shock tower offers additional tuning options :: LiveRC.com - R/C Car News, Pictures, Videos, and More
I think if it did not have the two mounting options (regular or +2), or you ran the regular (upper) holes it would have been fine.I had it in the +2.
Thx! Already had ordered by the time I saw this. Bummer. Wonder if spreading the load via a washer may help. Thx for the advice
I ran one but it only lasted a few runs, maybe 4. Granted we were running on turf laid out on asphalt. Had a bad landing which rolled the car. Snapped right at the bulkhead mount screw holes.
I think if it did not have the two mounting options (regular or +2), or you ran the regular (upper) holes it would have been fine.I had it in the +2.
I think if it did not have the two mounting options (regular or +2), or you ran the regular (upper) holes it would have been fine.I had it in the +2.
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Anyone running pucks for rb6.6 and know what rings you can get to fit?
I believe the MIP gear and diff rings are the same as the associated b6. Call and order a bunch of stuff. It's all on clearance