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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-26-2016, 01:12 PM   #13906
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I'm running the Pro Line front wing mount and wing, I think I can run the JC wing on the mount too. I like it better than mounting on the shock tower as stays pretty undamaged so far. Makes the front end a little more stable at higher speeds. Helps keep the front end down for me when I'm wheelie-ing too.
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Old 11-26-2016, 02:28 PM   #13907
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I am wondering if anyone has been tried the rb6.6 on carpet/astro. Please share your opinions, advices
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Old 11-26-2016, 08:49 PM   #13908
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lynx75 View Post
I am wondering if anyone has been tried the rb6.6 on carpet/astro. Please share your opinions, advices
Next saturday I'm taking mine out to the carpet track in el centro, ca. I'll let you know how it goes.
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Old 11-26-2016, 10:35 PM   #13909
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HotRod127 View Post
I have drove the B6 3 gear laydown that other guys at my track have enough to know that on power with the shocks forward is a little different to get used to and there are just way too many things that you need to do to make that car work, flat arm this, gull wing this, or gull wing tower here, shim the bulkhead this or do that, dremel this.....
sorry but thats just not true at all. The B6 and B6D are great out of the box. many guys running on clay buy a b6d for the ball diff and flat arms and the put a lay down in it..thats just personal preference. thats wht AE made two different kits for different surfaces.never heard of anyone dremel'ing anything or spacing c/d blocks.... my b6 right out of the box with zero changes just placed 2nd in the amain in its first meeting on carpet...look at cavaleris EOS setup and theres no fancy parts in there either.
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Old 11-26-2016, 11:08 PM   #13910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lunchie View Post
sorry but thats just not true at all. The B6 and B6D are great out of the box. many guys running on clay buy a b6d for the ball diff and flat arms and the put a lay down in it..thats just personal preference. thats wht AE made two different kits for different surfaces.never heard of anyone dremel'ing anything or spacing c/d blocks.... my b6 right out of the box with zero changes just placed 2nd in the amain in its first meeting on carpet...look at cavaleris EOS setup and theres no fancy parts in there either.
Cool, take this discussion back over to that cars thread.
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Old 11-27-2016, 02:25 AM   #13911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lunchie View Post
sorry but thats just not true at all. The B6 and B6D are great out of the box. many guys running on clay buy a b6d for the ball diff and flat arms and the put a lay down in it..thats just personal preference. thats wht AE made two different kits for different surfaces.never heard of anyone dremel'ing anything or spacing c/d blocks.... my b6 right out of the box with zero changes just placed 2nd in the amain in its first meeting on carpet...look at cavaleris EOS setup and theres no fancy parts in there either.

Like i said in my earlier post, I'm not here to start a war or tick any one off, that's just my opinion. I run with Chad Due & Cole Tollard up here in Wisconsin and there is nothing right out of the box with these guys so, I'm not talking hop up parts either.
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Old 11-27-2016, 11:25 AM   #13912
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Quote:
Originally Posted by likea45 View Post
Cool, take this discussion back over to that cars thread.
^^^ wot he said
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Old 11-29-2016, 11:46 PM   #13913
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assembly kyosho rb6.6

Kyosho has taken a little time with his new 2WD buggy, on the
Many after the IFMAR 1/10 off-road World Championship 2015
Japan have waited anxiously. Now the cat out of the sack, as one says so beautifully.
And we could get a direct insight into the construction of the latest
From Kyosho. To anticipate the
New RB6.6 has been developed further in the transmission configuration.

continue

first part

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Old 11-30-2016, 01:28 AM   #13914
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lynx75 View Post
I am wondering if anyone has been tried the rb6.6 on carpet/astro. Please share your opinions, advices
we have a very competitive 17.5 class on carpet where I run the 6.6
it does very well and runs the same fast laps as I could get with the AE b6, but its a little easier to drive when pushing hard
the only thing i have changed from box setup at the moment is the front springs to gold, the pink is way too soft. it has absolute tons of steering so i actually have to run the battery all the way back. it is for some reason, more resistant to traction rolling than the B6 box setup vs box setup, i dont know why, maybe it rolls more? anyway, thats a good thing. the shocks are better than any other 2wd i've tried.

if you run 17.5 you will need to look into gearing appropriately, as the stock spur only allows a 30t pinion maybe 31at most
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Old 11-30-2016, 11:26 AM   #13915
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Servo throw is not symmetric for left and right - IDK whats wrong

Just installed a new servo, I've been running this car since the RB6 was first released and servo needed replacing. I am running the Kyosho aluminum steering arms and Exotek aluminum steering rack both of which I think are fine.

When I set the servo end points I have Left at like 70% and Right at 120% just to get the steering knuckles on inside of turn all the way to C-hub (full lock).

The little link between servo horn and steering arm is angled a little towards the back at the servo. I can't move the servo forward much, maybe 1mm more, I could shim the ball stud on servo horn forward. Will making this link parallel even out the steering?
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Old 11-30-2016, 01:32 PM   #13916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CedarCityJohnny View Post
Servo throw is not symmetric for left and right - IDK whats wrong

Just installed a new servo, I've been running this car since the RB6 was first released and servo needed replacing. I am running the Kyosho aluminum steering arms and Exotek aluminum steering rack both of which I think are fine.

When I set the servo end points I have Left at like 70% and Right at 120% just to get the steering knuckles on inside of turn all the way to C-hub (full lock).

The little link between servo horn and steering arm is angled a little towards the back at the servo. I can't move the servo forward much, maybe 1mm more, I could shim the ball stud on servo horn forward. Will making this link parallel even out the steering?
Do you have the spacer between the ball ends on the steering link? 1mm I believe. The servo horn should slightly lean to the right when the steering is centered.
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Old 12-03-2016, 09:30 AM   #13917
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RB-SEX

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Old 12-03-2016, 12:42 PM   #13918
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People running low profile servo in them or standard for dirt racing
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Old 12-03-2016, 02:01 PM   #13919
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Posting this question on the RB6 thread as well just to improve the chances for a quicker response as it seems to have more traffic and busier than the SC6 thread.

Anyhow I have been running the SC6 since it was first released and absolutely love it. I have been running midship 4 gear in mod badically from the start. I have always used the ball diff with BFAst components. I am going to try the gear diff as I am wanting to see how it performs while requiring rebuilds do to wear less often than Ball diffs. Hoping someone can suggest a good diff oil weight to start at per use on a med bite hard packed dirt clay blend track. 80 percent dirt 20 percent clay thus again very packed and treated thus the traction is much better than the hard packed outdoor track I normally race on. Will be running 7.5, mod 4gear midship, Yok triple slipper, alum idlers and using PT diff oil in the gear diff build. My attempted drive style is less aggressive therefore I try to be very smooth on the throttle as trying to be aggressive per the throttle always tends to lead to mistakes on my part. Always more comfortable for myself driving smooth.


Any suggestions on a good weight diff oil to start at the per med bite track conditions listed above would be greatly appreciated. Track is large with long straight, huge sweeper, lots of elevation changes throughout the technical Combined with some tight off camber 180 degree turns, oh good amount jumps having a larger rythm section, and a decent sized table top as you come out of a tight 180 turn into a short straight being somewhat off camber before leveling out ight before hitting the table top.

Thanks
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Old 12-03-2016, 10:25 PM   #13920
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Originally Posted by Norse View Post
Posting this question on the RB6 thread as well just to improve the chances for a quicker response as it seems to have more traffic and busier than the SC6 thread.

Anyhow I have been running the SC6 since it was first released and absolutely love it. I have been running midship 4 gear in mod badically from the start. I have always used the ball diff with BFAst components. I am going to try the gear diff as I am wanting to see how it performs while requiring rebuilds do to wear less often than Ball diffs. Hoping someone can suggest a good diff oil weight to start at per use on a med bite hard packed dirt clay blend track. 80 percent dirt 20 percent clay thus again very packed and treated thus the traction is much better than the hard packed outdoor track I normally race on. Will be running 7.5, mod 4gear midship, Yok triple slipper, alum idlers and using PT diff oil in the gear diff build. My attempted drive style is less aggressive therefore I try to be very smooth on the throttle as trying to be aggressive per the throttle always tends to lead to mistakes on my part. Always more comfortable for myself driving smooth.


Any suggestions on a good weight diff oil to start at the per med bite track conditions listed above would be greatly appreciated. Track is large with long straight, huge sweeper, lots of elevation changes throughout the technical Combined with some tight off camber 180 degree turns, oh good amount jumps having a larger rythm section, and a decent sized table top as you come out of a tight 180 turn into a short straight being somewhat off camber before leveling out ight before hitting the table top.

Thanks
I'm really new to racing. Matter of fact, today was the day I brought my RB6.6 to the track for the very first time. I had decent enough settings because I was able to find some pro set up sheets for the type of surface I was running and loosely based my build on one of those set up sheets. My suggestion would be to find the database(I'm sure there is one) of set up sheets for various surfaces for your SC6. I can only imagine it would give you a decent idea of where to start with settings.
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