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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-01-2016, 08:22 AM
  #13846  
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Originally Posted by dmatter View Post
Kyosho using bleeder caps on the new cars?
Nope. Same shocks as they have had for a few years now that bleed through the bottom. IMO easiest shock to bleed on the market and stays consistent so much longer.
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Old 11-01-2016, 08:33 AM
  #13847  
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Gotcha
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Old 11-01-2016, 02:54 PM
  #13848  
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Pm me if anyone wants to sell an rb6.6
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Old 11-01-2016, 07:21 PM
  #13849  
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Originally Posted by jrz93 View Post
whats good starting point for 17.5? 72/30? and will ae spurs work as all my lhs have?
If your running 17.5 I'd use a 69 spur...I don't remember what we ran for pinions on our 17.5 cars but I wanna say 32 on bigger open tracks and 31 on smaller tight tracks.

Yes, you can use AE spur gears but you have to use the AE slipper pads as well. The Kyosho slipper plates will work with AE spurs/slipper pads
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Old 11-01-2016, 07:25 PM
  #13850  
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Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
Haven't heard it mentioned but there's 3 options for mounting the rear tower with a laydown transmission.
Despite what everyone says, you CAN use the original RB6 rear bulkhead with the laydown tranny. This is how you run the shocks on the rear of the tower and rear of the a arms.
Use the taller 6.6 bulkhead to run the shocks on the front of the shock tower and rear of the a arms
Use the smaller one to mount the tower directly to the diff case to run the shocks on the front of the a arms....this is for high bite tracks/carpet/turf
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Old 11-02-2016, 02:37 AM
  #13851  
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Originally Posted by TravisS27 View Post
Despite what everyone says, you CAN use the original RB6 rear bulkhead with the laydown tranny. This is how you run the shocks on the rear of the tower and rear of the a arms.
Use the taller 6.6 bulkhead to run the shocks on the front of the shock tower and rear of the a arms
Use the smaller one to mount the tower directly to the diff case to run the shocks on the front of the a arms....this is for high bite tracks/carpet/turf
I am wondering for high bite tracks like carpet/turf if its better to use 3 or 4 gears in laydown car layout using for mod like 6.5T.

thanks
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Old 11-02-2016, 03:25 AM
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Originally Posted by lynx75 View Post
I am wondering for high bite tracks like carpet/turf if its better to use 3 or 4 gears in laydown car layout using for mod like 6.5T.

thanks
Probably 3 gear. We run 4 gear on med bite dirt and med-hi bite clay
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Old 11-03-2016, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by lynx75 View Post
I am wondering for high bite tracks like carpet/turf if its better to use 3 or 4 gears in laydown car layout using for mod like 6.5T.

thanks
In the video at the beginning of this thread about the RB6.6 they recommend the 3 gear laydown for high bite carpet/turf tracks.
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Old 11-04-2016, 02:45 PM
  #13854  
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Thanks @traviss27 and @jcs

I will build the kit during the Xmas break :-)
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Old 11-05-2016, 02:35 AM
  #13855  
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3 hole rear Pistons: anyone running these? I ordered VRP 2 hole 1.6 front and 3 hole rears at recommendation of VRP. Thought I would try it out. I'm running th 3 gear laydown and am worried it may produce too much back and I'll lose read grip. Thought I would ask her before rebuilding shocks. Thx much
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Old 11-07-2016, 09:15 AM
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JAE, I know we talked about this a bit but I figured it might be worth discussing on the forums too.

Shocks are one of the more difficult beasts in RC tuning, IMHO. Fluid Dynamics is no joke

If you have a lot of air in the shocks, this will change the dampening quite a bit.

Most of the SoCal tracks have fairly large jumps, OCRC, SCVRC, and LRH, definitely do, although sometimes the double single is better. Given the larger jumps I have found i need to stay in the middle of the 2 or 3 hole spectrum if I can call it that. I have experimented with 4 hole too, but found 2 and 3 to be better on most indoor clay conditions that I've had the time to test on. Currently I'm running 1.3x3 VRP with 400CST KYO FR/1.6x2 with 350CST KYO RR. My medium grip car (standup transmission) has 300CST with 1.6x2 all around. I've tested 1.3x3 in the rear as well, but found I preferred to have the pack of 1.6x2 to keep from bottoming out as often. If I ran 1.3x3 I'd probably run 350CST instead of 300.

In general, when I go to a thicker oil, I will go to the next step larger piston, to Accommodate the change in viscosity. For example if I am running 1.x6x2 with 350, I will switch to the 1.3x3 with 400. This way I can achieve similar pack, with a higher static dampening.

When it comes to piston sizing I think the VRP chart is pretty helpful, since it gives a progression in terms of piston sizing. Should be attached here.

I hope I was able to achieve some clarity here. Let me know if I can help!
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-vrpguide.png  
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Old 11-07-2016, 08:13 PM
  #13857  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
I hope I was able to achieve some clarity here. Let me know if I can help!
Very helpful information
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Old 11-07-2016, 09:01 PM
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Anyone had a chance to try these new proline positron tires yet? Just curious, looking at tire choices for my build and thought these might fit the bill. Right now dirtwebs are money.
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Old 11-08-2016, 11:14 AM
  #13859  
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Hi everyone,

I'm at a bit of a crossroads. I have been a Kyosho guy for many years. I currently have the RB6 and a TKI3. I am deciding between the Associated B6 with a ball diff and 3 gear laydown configuration, or the RB6.6. The track I race at is an indoor high bite clay. Typically slicks are run or very little pin. The fastest racers at my track run the Associated B6 in the 3 gear laydown configuration.

For high bite clay which transmission configuration is considered to be the fastest for the Kyosho RB6.6? From what I have been reading on this thread most people are running the four gear, but at my track the Associated B6 with a 3 gear laydown and ball diff is by far faster than the four gear.
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Old 11-08-2016, 11:20 AM
  #13860  
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Originally Posted by Payton 34 View Post
Hi everyone,

I'm at a bit of a crossroads. I have been a Kyosho guy for many years. I currently have the RB6 and a TKI3. I am deciding between the Associated B6 with a ball diff and 3 gear laydown configuration, or the RB6.6. The track I race at is an indoor high bite clay. Typically slicks are run or very little pin. The fastest racers at my track run the Associated B6 in the 3 gear laydown configuration.

For high bite clay which transmission configuration is considered to be the fastest for the Kyosho RB6.6? From what I have been reading on this thread most people are running the four gear, but at my track the Associated B6 with a 3 gear laydown and ball diff is by far faster than the four gear.
My track is a medium/high bite track and as of last Saturday I went with the 3 gear laydown. It was possibly the best car I have driven in a while. And I am a die hard K car guy.
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