Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
Always drive a steel screw into plastic first and then put in a Ti screw to hold things together, you will have a good chance at better results.
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
@bill77: exotek carbon for the RB6?! Can you show us?
Tech Regular
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Tech Apprentice
As said above drive a steel screw in first before the titanium ones and try a tiny bit of grease on the screws before winding them in... No issues for me using this method :-)
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Sorry i was looking at the tlr chassis duh. I'm building a 17.5 stock buggy and trying to make it light as possible.
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
Back when I quit racing in the early 90's it was all about aluminum screw kits. Honestly never had a problem with aluminum screws as long as you only used them in non-critical areas and replaced them once worn. There is quite a difference in different titanium manufacturers but some things stay constant. Titanium doesn't flex like steel or aluminum. It breaks. With as many ball studs as I've broken I'd never go titanium. For all the non-critical screws I wouldn't be afraid of aluminum at all. What's the weight difference to go all titanium anyway? Then guys go all titanium and buy brass arm hangers and chassis weights? Maybe once I get my top 15 laps within 2 tenths I'll think differently....
Tech Initiate
Did the Body style Change? Canīt really see it from the Pictures. Seems the cab changed a Little ?
Tech Lord
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Tech Master
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I agree with RokleM on the battery front, you can easily run mod in most cases with a 3200mAh Capacity battery (or near here) that will shave 50-75grams off the weight of the car. Almost no cost if you don't already have a battery and are buying one for the car new. For example the Orion Carbon Pro 3200 is aprox 125 grams. Typical shorty is 175 and up, my 4600s are 200-205 for example.
All that being said I still have a full set of titanium screws, turnbuckles, hinge pins, the works as I like to be able to adjust the weight distribution of the car without adding weights whenever possible. I've also used lunsford for so many years, it's basically a habit now. It's not cheap, and for the average racer completely unnecessary. Sorry Kelly!
As a side note, I've just built up my RB6.6 with carbon parts, titanium, and a 4600 shorty and I seem to be coming in around 1475. I still need to add a chassis skin and some accesory items though, so don't take this in stone. Hope that helps!
So far I love the RB6.6. Build was fun, Kyosho manual not that great as usual.
All that being said I still have a full set of titanium screws, turnbuckles, hinge pins, the works as I like to be able to adjust the weight distribution of the car without adding weights whenever possible. I've also used lunsford for so many years, it's basically a habit now. It's not cheap, and for the average racer completely unnecessary. Sorry Kelly!
As a side note, I've just built up my RB6.6 with carbon parts, titanium, and a 4600 shorty and I seem to be coming in around 1475. I still need to add a chassis skin and some accesory items though, so don't take this in stone. Hope that helps!
So far I love the RB6.6. Build was fun, Kyosho manual not that great as usual.
Tech Initiate
Can we just use the standard chassis protector for the rb6.6?
Tech Lord
iTrader: (360)
See below.
Exactly. Titanium, contrary to popular belief, is not actually stronger. In addition, it snaps instead of bending. Strength wise, it's roughly in-between strongest aluminum and below the weakest grades of steel. Basically people are spending a ton of money to save grams and add "bling" when proper battery selection could save literally 100x more weight at an extreme fraction of the cost. 12.9 steel is ideal in nearly every application in this hobby.
Exactly. Titanium, contrary to popular belief, is not actually stronger. In addition, it snaps instead of bending. Strength wise, it's roughly in-between strongest aluminum and below the weakest grades of steel. Basically people are spending a ton of money to save grams and add "bling" when proper battery selection could save literally 100x more weight at an extreme fraction of the cost. 12.9 steel is ideal in nearly every application in this hobby.
What type of Titanium? I have Kyosho Ti screws, Schelle Ti screws and Lunsford ti screws. The Kyosho don't even look like the same quality as the other two brands.
With the Lunsford and Schelle ti screws there is no need to pre thread plastic and I've never had one break.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
What are the differences from 2015 rb6 and rb6.6 besides trans chassis and body?
Tech Regular
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Tech Addict
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