ProfessorX

iTrader: (18)

Watching

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

I am thinking that with all of the talk about the RZ6 that maybe I should change the title to include it? If you object, post here. If you are ok with the name change I will do it on Friday.

scoobyrs25

iTrader: (1)

Actually a new thread is way better. Nothing worse than buying a car and having to figure out how many pages deep the new version started. I think especially with the RZ6 it will get confusing and annoying. Maybe a link to the RZ6 with a short description on the first page of this thread.

raz14

iTrader: (13)

I agree. A new thread for the RZ6 will encourage more collaboration specific to this model and reduce confusion between the 2 cars.

Just finished my RZ6 build and it's going to be the rainy day car. My old cannibalized RB5 provided the BB shocks along with raiding spares, a few new bits. That allowed me to keep my real dirt RB6s intact.

Looking forward to throwing it down on the track.

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

Sounds good. I will create a new thread and do my best to bring over the posts about the RZ6 here to the new one.

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

The Kyosho RZ6 thread has been created. I copied all of the posts on the RZ6 in this thread, that I could find to the new thread. You can find it here.

RiPPeN78

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,

Looking for some additional corner exit rear traction. Really hard to get on it at all without rear end coming around. Driving on loose/medium grip dirt track.

Where is the best place to start?

SETUP:

Front:
- Shocks: White spring, 1.4X3, 32.5 weight, middle on shock tower, outside lower hole
- Reverse akerman plate
- 1.0mm Spacers inside and out on camber arms, middle hole on front bulkhead
- Hubs spaced all the way up and forward.

Rear:
- Shocks: Pink spring, 1.6x2, 27.5 weight, second from inside on tower, middle hole on 3 position lower arm
- 3mm shims on inner bulkhead, outside hole on knuckle with 2mm shim
- Transmission raised 1.0mm
- Hubs spaced all the way forward
- 0.75mm anti-squat
- 1.0 degree rear hubs
- 20 gram weight on rear

Blockade M3 in rear and 3 rib fronts for tires

This is not your typical 1/10 smooth, clay track. It is blue groove in places, bumpy, dusty in others. Having a tough time getting rear traction when coming out of a tight 90 degree corner. Its really hard to get on it without rear end coming around or kicking out.

Looking for suggestions. How else can I lower rear roll centre to gain more traction?

Thanks,

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

How much rear toe are you running, example d-in, d-in?

If you need the car to squat more in the rear end to get some bite I would move the lower shock mounts in on the arm. I would also move the rear hubs backs.

I would also swap the shock pistons around. I do believe the 3 hole variety that you listed does not pack up as fast as the 2x1.6's. If you have 4 or 5 hole you could try that as well.

Then I would also play around with the camber link shim on the hub and the length. I thought you would want a longer link on a high bite surface to allow the car to roll more. If you have trouble with grip maybe less shims or a shorter link will allow the car to square up better in the corner and allow you to get on the gas earlier since it isn't continuing to roll.

People have also told me that a stiffer spring forces the tire into the ground more than a softer spring. So that could be an option for you too.

These are just some ideas.

RiPPeN78

iTrader: (1)

Thanks so much!

I am running C-IN & C-IN for the rear toe with the narrow rear holder.

oPAULo

iTrader: (10)

Hmmmmm. What narrow rear holder? C-in C-in or D-in D-in refers to C-in front holder C-in rear holder which gives you 3.5 degrees toe in. Running an adjustable holder with a fixed holder might have you all messed up if that's what you have.

oPAULo

iTrader: (10)

The inner shock mount on 3 hole rear arms really helped me on low bite. A heavier wing also helps like a trifecta or Sworkz. They're only 10 grams heavier but it's up high and helps roll. Sideways battery right against the waterfall helps a great deal too.
But before anything is tires, tires, tires. Just because you have the same tires the fast guys do means nothing if your not prepping them the same. Tire preparation is HUUUUGE!

oPAULo

iTrader: (10)

Also just noticed you have 1 degree rear hubs. You may have way too much rear toe in for low bite track. Toe is when your wheels are not tracking parallel or actually steering twards one another. In a straight line they're kind of fighting one another and always in a state of skid. In a corner they're happy. You may have too much and always in a state of skid. From my research, you want more rear toe for high bite tracks where you carry a lot more corner speed and less for low bite.
Somebody chime in if I'm way off base here because I want to know too!!

SAMCRO

iTrader: (2)

Move your arms/hubs all the way foward. Run the the four gear box if you have three gear.

Run the long front eyelet and go far inside hole on rear arm.

A pink rear spring is too soft. Would go to white or maybe gold since you have the added rear weight

GIHOSU

iTrader: (5)

M4 Holeshots is my answer.

fenton06

iTrader: (24)

Anyone hear rumblings about a new car? With the updates they haven't released (3 gear, laydown, wide chassis, etc) it makes me wonder if they're releasing something. Would like to get an idea on if I should get an RZ for carpet, and if a new buggy will be out before Nats in August.