Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread >

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

Like Tree42Likes

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

Print Wikipost

Reply

Old 06-12-2016, 10:26 PM
  #13306  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
 
raz14's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 391
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
Welcome.

I have been up and down in ride height. There is something in this front end that is leaving me scratching my head. Maybe it is electronics related, not sure. Hopefully I find it otherwise it is time to swap front ends between the two cars.
I would bet the issue is hiding in the rear as the RB6 front end usually has a boiler plate setup.
raz14 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2016, 10:31 PM
  #13307  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
 
raz14's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 391
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Just saw from your setup sheet that the rack is backwards to calm the steering. Turning it around should make it more pointy.

Last edited by raz14; 06-12-2016 at 10:50 PM.
raz14 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2016, 01:31 AM
  #13308  
Tech Apprentice
 
ralphee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 51
Default

Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
Welcome.

I have been up and down in ride height. There is something in this front end that is leaving me scratching my head. Maybe it is electronics related, not sure. Hopefully I find it otherwise it is time to swap front ends between the two cars.
Kraig

I run on medium grip carpet. On the more open fast layouts we put down, the car is insane, soooo good, but, the tighter tracks with sharp 180 hairpins, she pushes off power terrible.
Im trying a shorter wheelbase next week, moving the hub 2mm forward. I will say flip your rack though, and get at least 20g under the steering bellcranks, that REALLY helps.
Ive a few things to try with advice from the UK team guys, so im eager to get the balance right, as like you, lots of rear end, just need the front to start gripping a little better, but its a fantastic car, on power corner speed is just spot on.
Also, try going one hole out on your rear tower.

lee
ralphee is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2016, 10:14 AM
  #13309  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (73)
 
Kraig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sun Prairie, WI
Posts: 6,585
Trader Rating: 73 (100%+)
Default

Thanks!

I went back and read my radio manual again and found some options in it that I did not know existed. So I am going to try that before I start changing things on the car. The only reason why I am trying the radio is that right now, on the front, that is the only thing that is different between our two cars.

As for the rear shocks, I had to move them to the back of the arm to help with the rear grip. Once I did that I had the rear just the way I wanted it to feel.

So next trip to the track I am going after;
Radio changes
Steering rack change
Weight on front end
Playing with the rear hub spacing to see what that will do.
Kraig is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2016, 10:17 AM
  #13310  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (73)
 
Kraig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sun Prairie, WI
Posts: 6,585
Trader Rating: 73 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by scoobyrs25 View Post
Try shortening the wheelbase by moving your rear hubs and arms forward. My shocks are up front and my speedo behind the motor. I'm also using the gear diff with 2k oil and it works great.
I had 5k in my diff and that didn't work out so well. I will get some 2k and give it a try in the future.

I moved the shocks, because it was easier to do at the track. Maybe my next step will be to move the speed control behind the motor like you suggested but I need to get the front to feel like I want it to feel.
Kraig is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2016, 02:39 PM
  #13311  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
 
GIHOSU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Murdertown, USA
Posts: 276
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Thanks for posting your setup Kraig, I am wondering if the change in the front comes from the RZ6 directions showing the hingepin block on top of the chassis instead of under...
GIHOSU is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2016, 03:10 PM
  #13312  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
 
raz14's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 391
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by GIHOSU View Post
Thanks for posting your setup Kraig, I am wondering if the change in the front comes from the RZ6 directions showing the hingepin block on top of the chassis instead of under...
No way. It follows the other gen 6 cars. Step 1 is just unclear.
raz14 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2016, 11:48 PM
  #13313  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Orange County CA
Posts: 325
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
I had 5k in my diff and that didn't work out so well. I will get some 2k and give it a try in the future.

I moved the shocks, because it was easier to do at the track. Maybe my next step will be to move the speed control behind the motor like you suggested but I need to get the front to feel like I want it to feel.
I'm also running the brass front hinge pin part. I think I added 10-15 grams of lead just behind the battery and under the driveshaft. Before I moved the speedo and added the weight, the car was undrivable.
scoobyrs25 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2016, 06:59 AM
  #13314  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (73)
 
Kraig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sun Prairie, WI
Posts: 6,585
Trader Rating: 73 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by GIHOSU View Post
Thanks for posting your setup Kraig, I am wondering if the change in the front comes from the RZ6 directions showing the hingepin block on top of the chassis instead of under...
Originally Posted by raz14 View Post
No way. It follows the other gen 6 cars. Step 1 is just unclear.
I have mine setup the same way as the RB6. I didn't think there was any other option.

Originally Posted by scoobyrs25 View Post
I'm also running the brass front hinge pin part. I think I added 10-15 grams of lead just behind the battery and under the driveshaft. Before I moved the speedo and added the weight, the car was undrivable.
Can you be more specific about being undriveable? Would it not turn, was it loose on/off power?

I am headed back to the track tonight to try my changes. If needed, I will swap entire front ends between my car and the kids RB6 and see if that makes a difference. It shouldn't take to long to do that.
Kraig is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2016, 02:39 PM
  #13315  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Orange County CA
Posts: 325
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Kraig View Post


Can you be more specific about being undriveable? Would it not turn, was it loose on/off power?
Like a skateboard on ice.
scoobyrs25 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2016, 03:05 PM
  #13316  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
 
raz14's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 391
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by scoobyrs25 View Post
Like a skateboard on ice.
Were you running with a lightweight battery?
raz14 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2016, 05:48 PM
  #13317  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
 
GIHOSU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Murdertown, USA
Posts: 276
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by raz14 View Post
No way. It follows the other gen 6 cars. Step 1 is just unclear.
Thanks for clearing that up, it looked like they wanted the hingepin over but the shaded image shows it the right way. Thanks for clearing that up.

Now I have everything I need to get the build started. This will be a fun one.
GIHOSU is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2016, 12:17 AM
  #13318  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Orange County CA
Posts: 325
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by raz14 View Post
Were you running with a lightweight battery?
Nope, just a regular shorty pack. I do have the lightweight chassis however. It's the only chassis I have. At least I get to place weight where I want it.
scoobyrs25 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2016, 06:46 AM
  #13319  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (73)
 
Kraig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sun Prairie, WI
Posts: 6,585
Trader Rating: 73 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by scoobyrs25 View Post
Nope, just a regular shorty pack. I do have the lightweight chassis however. It's the only chassis I have. At least I get to place weight where I want it.
Lightweight chassis on the RB6 or the RZ6? I was talking about the RZ6 so maybe I got messed up somewhere. I will say this though, we added weight to my son's car and he has better car control.

I made a few changes to the radio and now it appears to be reacting the same way as the RB6, front end wise. I didn't change the car at all but instead added more gear and the lap times kept on coming down. I think there is still more to be had but the motor temperature started going up. So next step is to install a fan.
Kraig is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 06-15-2016, 10:16 AM
  #13320  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Orange County CA
Posts: 325
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
Lightweight chassis on the RB6 or the RZ6?.
No, it was late and I wasn't thinking clearly. RZ6, not lightweight chassis. My RB had the light one.
scoobyrs25 is offline  
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Terms of Service