Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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What's the word on a new car for dirt? Not sure why they are so behind.
Tech Lord
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Tech Regular
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One of the changes I hope to see is inserts in a new rear hub for some hingepin adjustment.
What changes do you guys want to see???
I'd like to see a factory MM three gear option, aluminum hubs as standard as many kits from competitors have done, support for sideways shorty, lighter stock chassis and a new front bulkhead. Love the RB6 as it is and it is more than competitive, but I've had to change a few of these items on mine to dial it in.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (105)
I think kyosho has to decide if they are gonna stay with rm/mm in one kit.. They might do a tranny change on a new kit.. I doubt kyosho will ever ad aluminum hubs to a kit(would be nice).. Im happy with the car, 3 gear would be nice,not much i want to change.. Not sure why schell doesnt make much after market parts for the rb6? Hubs would be nice
They need to update the steering rack and make aluminum part of the kit. Much like the other cars on the market.
Not sure why it has been so hard to put out a flat chassis or three gear box in the past two years. For the cost, you shouldn't have to open up the kit, sand down your chassis/side guards and make a home made gear box/gear cover
Not sure why it has been so hard to put out a flat chassis or three gear box in the past two years. For the cost, you shouldn't have to open up the kit, sand down your chassis/side guards and make a home made gear box/gear cover
Quick question regarding two suspension adjustments.
1.) What effect does lowering/raising the front hub height do?
2.) What effect do the 0, 0,5mm and 1.0mm shims have above the 25/30 caster block insert?
Thanks,
1.) What effect does lowering/raising the front hub height do?
2.) What effect do the 0, 0,5mm and 1.0mm shims have above the 25/30 caster block insert?
Thanks,
Super Moderator
iTrader: (81)
I can tell you that when you lower or raise the hub, you are also changing the bump steer because now the steering link is not at the same angle as the front camber link.
Plus, when you raise the hub you lose some ride height so you will have to regain the height but turning down the shock spring nut. When you do this, the piston is pushed lower in the shock body and allows for more compression travel.
Moral of my story, I haven't played with it to much because of the above items which could just be a mental thing.
Charlie Perez words, please check here for more golden info: http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...SetupHints.htm
Moving the Steering Spindle Up and Down changes two things:
It changes the Total down travel your front end has. More Down travel in the front will give you more predictable landing off of jumps. It will also give you less steering as you exit the corner on power. Less Down Travel in the front will make your car less predictable landing off of jumps, such as sticking into the dirt like a lawn dart if you land extremely nose down. The advantage of less down travel is increased corner exiting steering when you are on power. I like to use this adjustment to quickly see if increasing or decreasing the downtravel in my shocks will provide the corner handling that I desire.
Thespindle height will also change the amount of bump steer your car has. Lowering the spindle will give the front end more Bump-In. Raising the spindle will give the front end more Bump-Out. This is if you do not add or take out any washers under the steering ball end. Bump-In will give you more steering entering and through the corner. It will also make your car feel more aggressive to initial steering inputs. Bump-Out will give you less steering entering the corner but more through and exiting the corner. So in high speed sweepers Bump-Out will give you a more consistent steering “Feel”. Bump-Out will also dull some of the initial steering inputs. I personally like to use Zero bump in or out. So if I change the height of the spindle I have to add or subtract shims from under the ball end to keep the Bump at Zero.
It changes the Total down travel your front end has. More Down travel in the front will give you more predictable landing off of jumps. It will also give you less steering as you exit the corner on power. Less Down Travel in the front will make your car less predictable landing off of jumps, such as sticking into the dirt like a lawn dart if you land extremely nose down. The advantage of less down travel is increased corner exiting steering when you are on power. I like to use this adjustment to quickly see if increasing or decreasing the downtravel in my shocks will provide the corner handling that I desire.
Thespindle height will also change the amount of bump steer your car has. Lowering the spindle will give the front end more Bump-In. Raising the spindle will give the front end more Bump-Out. This is if you do not add or take out any washers under the steering ball end. Bump-In will give you more steering entering and through the corner. It will also make your car feel more aggressive to initial steering inputs. Bump-Out will give you less steering entering the corner but more through and exiting the corner. So in high speed sweepers Bump-Out will give you a more consistent steering “Feel”. Bump-Out will also dull some of the initial steering inputs. I personally like to use Zero bump in or out. So if I change the height of the spindle I have to add or subtract shims from under the ball end to keep the Bump at Zero.
The "Spindles" are what your front tires attach to. You can change the height of the spindle and this mainly changes your corner exiting steering. If you need more steering as you exit the corner, you can raise the spindles (Two washers on the bottom). If you need less steering as you exit the corner, you can lower the spindles (Two washers on the top). Just make sure that you add or remove bump steering spacers as you raise or lower the spindles. This will keep your bump steer the same.
Thanks Gayosaka,
I appreciate the thorough write up.
Can anyone else answer my second question?
2.) What effect do the 0, 0,5mm and 1.0mm shims have above the 25/30 caster block insert?
Thanks,
I appreciate the thorough write up.
Can anyone else answer my second question?
2.) What effect do the 0, 0,5mm and 1.0mm shims have above the 25/30 caster block insert?
Thanks,
Tech Adept
If you count those laydown cars a few pages back. From what i can tell is that there are 2 different cases. You can use one case which is either a 3 or 4 gear laydown or the other which is the same thing but in the standard dirt position.it looks like the topshaft tunnel can be swapped to either side and bolted on as well as the motorplate.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
I'd like to see a factory MM three gear option, aluminum hubs as standard as many kits from competitors have done, support for sideways shorty, lighter stock chassis and a new front bulkhead. Love the RB6 as it is and it is more than competitive, but I've had to change a few of these items on mine to dial it in.
I think kyosho has to decide if they are gonna stay with rm/mm in one kit.. They might do a tranny change on a new kit.. I doubt kyosho will ever ad aluminum hubs to a kit(would be nice).. Im happy with the car, 3 gear would be nice,not much i want to change.. Not sure why schell doesnt make much after market parts for the rb6? Hubs would be nice
Who else has some thoughts about about the new kit?
p.s. I picked up my RZ6 goodie box today. A ball diff is waiting to go in for dirt track racing. Pink springs are the last things on the checklist to get. Should be fun.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
I'm running the gear diff with 2k oil on a track that was horrible with the same fluid in the RB6 gear diff. It's a dream to drive. Give the gear diff a try first.
Tech Fanatic
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Supposedly the Rb7 is supposed to be out in August.