Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread >

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree172Likes

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

Print Wikipost

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-12-2016, 08:30 AM
  #13261  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (105)
 
hairymuffin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: moreno valley, ca
Posts: 3,416
Trader Rating: 105 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tps3443
The MIP pucks system looks really clean when it's installed but, the stock ones are super strong. None bent or broken so far I'm sticking with the stock cvd setup.

What is the best, thickest carbon fiber towers / hangars to run?
Avid axles are the strongest.. I've been using the tebo towers,so far they have been good.. Kyosho hangers
hairymuffin is offline  
Old 05-12-2016, 09:35 AM
  #13262  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 502
Trader Rating: 8 (90%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Tpg racer
Not really sure which bodyshell you are referring to but i am guessing you are looking for the Muchmore WonderBody bodyshell
This one
http://events.redrc.net/2015/10/chas...o-matsukura-5/

I know it says xgear but i cant find anythg on the internet.
juicy74 is offline  
Old 05-12-2016, 10:13 AM
  #13263  
Tech Fanatic
 
Tpg racer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 982
Default

Originally Posted by juicy74
This one
http://events.redrc.net/2015/10/chas...o-matsukura-5/

I know it says xgear but i cant find anythg on the internet.
Google Muchmore WonderBody / XGear WonderBody
Tpg racer is offline  
Old 05-13-2016, 12:39 AM
  #13264  
Tech Rookie
 
akimrc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Bratislava
Posts: 19
Default

in my previous post is answer...

lightweight Tamiya #84374
standard Tamiya #84368

same bodyshell
akimrc is offline  
Old 05-13-2016, 10:47 PM
  #13265  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 502
Trader Rating: 8 (90%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Tpg racer
Google Muchmore WonderBody / XGear WonderBody
Thanks!

Last edited by juicy74; 05-14-2016 at 01:39 AM.
juicy74 is offline  
Old 05-14-2016, 01:40 AM
  #13266  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 502
Trader Rating: 8 (90%+)
Default

Originally Posted by akimrc
in my previous post is answer...

lightweight Tamiya #84374
standard Tamiya #84368

same bodyshell
Oh sorry i misread your previous post. Thanks!!
juicy74 is offline  
Old 05-15-2016, 02:29 PM
  #13267  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 241
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Is it just me, or is the Kyosho RB6 just super tough?

I have yet to break anything. Other then a bad sensor wire at the track today. R10 Pro was flashing green with reduced power. Changed sensor wire out. It fixed it.

I'm running the punch on my R10 Pro at #1 slipper is quite loose, diff tight. And it is amazingly smooth and just perfect with my Trinity 24K 6.5T. This car just seems to be like butter on the track. It feels alot smoother then a team associated I drove.

I must say though, I did drive a Schumacher KF2 I liked it .



tps3443 is offline  
Old 05-16-2016, 11:06 AM
  #13268  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 141
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Could someone please tell me how to attain 0 degree anti-squat?
How or where do you add shims to the rear front hanger? I am a little confused on this portion. Are they telling you to put shims under your front suspension holder? In the instructions they do not show this. I am completely lost.

Does anyone have an idiots guide to setting up anti-squat and pro-squat? Been searching for quite some time but have not found anything.
Thanks

Last edited by RiPPeN302; 05-16-2016 at 11:24 AM.
RiPPeN302 is offline  
Old 05-16-2016, 03:01 PM
  #13269  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
 
oPAULo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Bedford, IN
Posts: 577
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by RiPPeN302
Could someone please tell me how to attain 0 degree anti-squat?
How or where do you add shims to the rear front hanger? I am a little confused on this portion. Are they telling you to put shims under your front suspension holder? In the instructions they do not show this. I am completely lost.

Does anyone have an idiots guide to setting up anti-squat and pro-squat? Been searching for quite some time but have not found anything.
Thanks
You can't get zero degrees.
You must have 1mm worth of shims somewhere in the rear.
Either 1mm below the rear hanger, 1mm above the rear hanger, .5mm above and below, or any other combination of shims that add up to 1mm above or below the rear hanger.
1mm under the rear hanger gives you .75 degrees
.5mm above and below gives you 1.5 degrees
1mm above gives you 2.25 degrees

No shims under the front hanger. Ever.

Seems like most run 1.5 degrees and forget it.
oPAULo is offline  
Old 05-16-2016, 06:54 PM
  #13270  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Orange County CA
Posts: 430
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

RZ6 update.

I love it. After moving the speed control to behind the motor and adding .5 ounce of weight just behind the battery, the car is dialed. I run on a track that slicks work great on. I'm confident it would work really well on a looser surface too.
scoobyrs25 is offline  
Old 05-16-2016, 09:11 PM
  #13271  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 258
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by scoobyrs25
RZ6 update.

I love it. After moving the speed control to behind the motor and adding .5 ounce of weight just behind the battery, the car is dialed. I run on a track that slicks work great on. I'm confident it would work really well on a looser surface too.
where do you race at? i want to check out some vehicles outside of team associated brand.
vietjdmboi is offline  
Old 05-17-2016, 02:09 PM
  #13272  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
 
raz14's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 391
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by oPAULo
You can't get zero degrees.
You must have 1mm worth of shims somewhere in the rear.
Either 1mm below the rear hanger, 1mm above the rear hanger, .5mm above and below, or any other combination of shims that add up to 1mm above or below the rear hanger.
1mm under the rear hanger gives you .75 degrees
.5mm above and below gives you 1.5 degrees
1mm above gives you 2.25 degrees

No shims under the front hanger. Ever.

Seems like most run 1.5 degrees and forget it.
Thanks for the info as I try to understand this.

What happens when you assemble without any shims at all? Bad things? I race on a low to mid traction dirt track where RM dominates currently.

Why 1mm minimum total shim?

The RB6 instructions for RM show a single 0.5mm spacer below the holder, while MM shows 0.5mm below the holder plus an optional 1mm above.

Wouldn't that suggest 0.5mm is acceptable for some setups? What am I missing? Thx!
raz14 is offline  
Old 05-17-2016, 03:42 PM
  #13273  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Orange County CA
Posts: 430
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by vietjdmboi
where do you race at? i want to check out some vehicles outside of team associated brand.
LRH on Sundays
scoobyrs25 is offline  
Old 05-17-2016, 03:51 PM
  #13274  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
 
oPAULo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Bedford, IN
Posts: 577
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by raz14
Thanks for the info as I try to understand this.

What happens when you assemble without any shims at all? Bad things? I race on a low to mid traction dirt track where RM dominates currently.

Why 1mm minimum total shim?

The RB6 instructions for RM show a single 0.5mm spacer below the holder, while MM shows 0.5mm below the holder plus an optional 1mm above.

Wouldn't that suggest 0.5mm is acceptable for some setups? What am I missing? Thx!
No idea about rear motor but my manual shows .5mm above and below or 1mm above for more anti-squat. All the parts are sandwiched between the chassis and the transmission. 1mm gives the correct spacing so there is no binding or flexing of anything.
oPAULo is offline  
Old 05-17-2016, 03:59 PM
  #13275  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (13)
 
raz14's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 391
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by oPAULo
No idea about rear motor but my manual shows .5mm above and below or 1mm above for more anti-squat. All the parts are sandwiched between the chassis and the transmission. 1mm gives the correct spacing so there is no binding or flexing of anything.
Looking closer at MM in the book, it does indeed show 2x0.5mm std then the 1mm optional shim, you're right.

Thanks for explaining. I'll make sure my cars have at least the proper std spacing.
raz14 is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.