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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 05-10-2016, 12:49 PM   #13246
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I have the 2015 Kyosho RB6 kit. Do I have the wider chassis?

Are the MIP pucks worth getting? I run 6.5T MOD racing.

One more question, is the RZ6 worth getting? I know it comes with alot of nice upgrades. Like , aluminum braces, and hinge pin holders etc. Etc. Or should I wait on a new kit?


And, I've noticed my ball diff is tight . It doesn't bark. But, if I rotate one wheel the other does not rotate the other direction. If I hold both wheels and rotate the opposite directions it is smooth. But, not super smooth or anything.
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Old 05-10-2016, 01:43 PM   #13247
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Originally Posted by tps3443 View Post
I have the 2015 Kyosho RB6 kit. Do I have the wider chassis?

Are the MIP pucks worth getting? I run 6.5T MOD racing.

One more question, is the RZ6 worth getting? I know it comes with alot of nice upgrades. Like , aluminum braces, and hinge pin holders etc. Etc. Or should I wait on a new kit?


And, I've noticed my ball diff is tight . It doesn't bark. But, if I rotate one wheel the other does not rotate the other direction. If I hold both wheels and rotate the opposite directions it is smooth. But, not super smooth or anything.
New chassis is not out(yet).. Not sure if or when? Rz6 is for carpet or Astro. Not sure about your diff,loosen it but not to a point where it slips
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Old 05-10-2016, 02:31 PM   #13248
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New chassis is not out(yet).. Not sure if or when? Rz6 is for carpet or Astro. Not sure about your diff,loosen it but not to a point where it slips

so, are the MIP pucks worth buying? I like the idea that there is no play in them but, not sure if they can hold the low turn MOD motors
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Old 05-10-2016, 03:14 PM   #13249
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I thought the puck system was for stock class(17.5) not sure they would hold up to a low turn mod.
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Old 05-10-2016, 03:19 PM   #13250
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There are two kinds of pucks:

1) Standard pucks with aluminum diff outdrives, aluminum C-CVD bones designed for stock racing with 17.5 turn motors.

2) Bi-metal pucks with a keyed joint made of hardened alloy steel that connects to a 7075 hard anodized aluminum driveshaft that can handle modified (does this need ALL CAPS? MOD?) motors. No real rotational weight savings with the bi-metal pucks.

Some guys run the bi-metal pucks in mod. I personally would go for pucks in stock racing and would pass on bi-metal pucks for mod.
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Old 05-10-2016, 04:06 PM   #13251
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so, are the MIP pucks worth buying? I like the idea that there is no play in them but, not sure if they can hold the low turn MOD motors
I have no experience with the puck system with mod motors but I wanted to highly suggest putting some black grease on the pins that go into the outdrive. This will help prevent excessive wear on the pins and the outdrives.
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Old 05-10-2016, 04:40 PM   #13252
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Originally Posted by tps3443 View Post
so, are the MIP pucks worth buying? I like the idea that there is no play in them but, not sure if they can hold the low turn MOD motors
Like the other guys said, mainly stock guys use the pucks, Mip does make a standard cvd polished set.. I run the stock bones but avid axles for strength..
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Old 05-10-2016, 05:31 PM   #13253
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I have no experience with the puck system with mod motors but I wanted to highly suggest putting some black grease on the pins that go into the outdrive. This will help prevent excessive wear on the pins and the outdrives.


Great advice right here. If you grease the driveshaft pins, the outdrives and pins will last a very long time. I usually clean and re-grease every couple race days to prevent any dust/dirt from building up as well.
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Old 05-10-2016, 06:45 PM   #13254
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MOD does not need caps my phone does that automatically. Why would that bother someone..

I use purdy paint brushes to keep my cars spotless after each run. More expensive brushes. But they don't wear out like cheap ones.

I'm going to skip the MIP pucks.
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Old 05-10-2016, 07:09 PM   #13255
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MIP quit making replacement parts for the RB6 pucks kits so if you break an axle or wear one out your kinda screwed. There are no more to be had that I have found. I have found a way to adapt AVID axles to MIP drive shafts but the spacing is different so I'm forced to run narrow on the rear arm hanger width.
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Old 05-10-2016, 07:34 PM   #13256
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I should add though, I'm still a huge fan of the pucks system. I got my sons RB6 used over a year ago and it had pucks on it. We've raced it nearly every weekend since. At 7 to 10 battery packs on a race day that's over 400 runs a year. The outdrives and drive shafts still look perfect. 3 dollars worth of plastic pucks every couple months and it's good as new. That's why I went to the trouble of making AVID axles work with MIP drive shafts.
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Old 05-12-2016, 01:34 AM   #13257
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Hey guys,
Where can i get the body shell that naoto is running?
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Old 05-12-2016, 01:43 AM   #13258
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Hey guys,
Where can i get the body shell that naoto is running?
Not really sure which bodyshell you are referring to but i am guessing you are looking for the Muchmore WonderBody bodyshell
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Old 05-12-2016, 04:34 AM   #13259
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Hey guys,
Where can i get the body shell that naoto is running?
the shell is from Xgear maybe
and same shell is standard Tamiya TRF201XM,XR,XMW and new TRF211XM
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Old 05-12-2016, 07:36 AM   #13260
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The MIP pucks system looks really clean when it's installed but, the stock ones are super strong. None bent or broken so far I'm sticking with the stock cvd setup.

What is the best, thickest carbon fiber towers / hangars to run?
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