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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-22-2016, 09:42 PM   #12976
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Avid long axles work great in MIP pucks drive shafts with just a little modding. I like the clamping hexes better than the MIP keyed hexes too.
First you have to open the bore of the MIP shaft by .005" on diameter. That's about the thickness of paper out of the wall of the bore. It doesn't take much. I used a square end carbide burr in a dremel. Do it quickly and smoothly to maintain roundness. It's really easy.


Then you just drill the cross holes in the driveshaft to 2mm accept the stock Kyosho CVD pin.


You could also use Kyosho 3 line axles or stock axles but the Avid axles are half the price. Right now I'm trying to find CVD hardware so I don't have to buy Kyosho axles just to get the hardware. Durango uses a 2mm pin but don't know about the size of the barrel. I'll have a set tomorrow and report back.
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Old 01-23-2016, 12:23 AM   #12977
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for those of you looking for a good setup for indoor med to high traction, i highly recommend the Chris Jarosz set up on KyoshoAmerica.com. So far, this is the best setup i've had on the car for indoors. It really lets you drive hard and the car is easy to drive consistently. The only change I have from his is the aluminum front toe block instead of the brass. Its awesome.
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Old 01-23-2016, 11:26 AM   #12978
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Avid axles in MIP driveshafts let me run D-in D-in. I wasn't able to with MIP axles as the driveshaft would bottom in the outdrive. The spacing of the CVD is deeper in the hub like a stock axle.
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Old 01-23-2016, 12:23 PM   #12979
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oops

Last edited by scoobyrs25; 01-23-2016 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 01-23-2016, 12:29 PM   #12980
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That's not where it goes??
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Old 01-23-2016, 12:36 PM   #12981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobyrs25 View Post
Anybody notice Tebo is running the brass front arm mount UNDER the chassis at the Reedy Race right now?

His bumper seems to be different but the hinge pin blocks are normally run under the chassis.

I'm more curious as to why he's back to the standard chassis.
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Old 01-23-2016, 12:44 PM   #12982
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Has there ever been evidence of a new chassis or is he just calling a drilled up and ground on old chassis the "new chassis"? LOL!
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Old 01-23-2016, 01:55 PM   #12983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
Has there ever been evidence of a new chassis or is he just calling a drilled up and ground on old chassis the "new chassis"? LOL!
yeah. If you look at pictures on Tebo's facebook page, you can see it. it's wider and appears a little longer but i can't say that for certain. It's the only part i'm really looking forward to. Well, that and a Kyosho 3 gear trans. My car is really competitive. I like the way it feels with gold front springs and gold rear springs and the new hole on the arms keep the back end planted. Not only that but if you don't like the gull wing arms, the straight arms are good too.
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Old 01-26-2016, 07:18 PM   #12984
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So a few pages back you guys were talking about anti squat and what adding and removing each shim equals.... Are you saying that the spacer between the hanger and bulk head is only used for a spacer for the bulkhead and tower?
Ex.....no shim under hanger I would need to have a 1 mil spacer between hanger and bulkhead
Ex 2.... .5 shim under hanger I would need to have ,5 spacer between hanger and bulkhead
Ex 3... 1 mil under hanger I would need to have no spacer between hanger and bulkhead

Am I on the right path or no? Manual is unclear as I come from an associated background where their stuff is very easy to understand
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Old 01-26-2016, 08:01 PM   #12985
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiger View Post
So a few pages back you guys were talking about anti squat and what adding and removing each shim equals.... Are you saying that the spacer between the hanger and bulk head is only used for a spacer for the bulkhead and tower?
Ex.....no shim under hanger I would need to have a 1 mil spacer between hanger and bulkhead
Ex 2.... .5 shim under hanger I would need to have ,5 spacer between hanger and bulkhead
Ex 3... 1 mil under hanger I would need to have no spacer between hanger and bulkhead

Am I on the right path or no? Manual is unclear as I come from an associated background where their stuff is very easy to understand
That's exactly right.
Also got to run the bumper no matter how you shim it.
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Old 01-27-2016, 07:18 PM   #12986
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Thank you
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Old 02-01-2016, 06:41 PM   #12987
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Any reason to change shock seals other than they're leaking? Been running 2 buggies for about 6 months every weekend. Countless oil changes and still never had one leak. My spare seals are going to dry rot in the toolbox!
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Old 02-01-2016, 10:59 PM   #12988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
Any reason to change shock seals other than they're leaking? Been running 2 buggies for about 6 months every weekend. Countless oil changes and still never had one leak. My spare seals are going to dry rot in the toolbox!
I have an Optima Mid with the original seals in the gold shocks, no leaks
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Old 02-02-2016, 08:20 AM   #12989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
Any reason to change shock seals other than they're leaking? Been running 2 buggies for about 6 months every weekend. Countless oil changes and still never had one leak. My spare seals are going to dry rot in the toolbox!
They do swell over time, probably can't tell looking at them, and when they do they tend to grip the shaft more than normal.

When I go to a big race I usually start with a fresh set.
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Old 02-02-2016, 08:49 AM   #12990
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
They do swell over time, probably can't tell looking at them, and when they do they tend to grip the shaft more than normal.

When I go to a big race I usually start with a fresh set.
Ahhh haaa....interesting.
That would explain why they never leak.
Picked up both buggies used so it's hard telling how old the seals are.
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