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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-15-2015, 02:05 AM   #12736
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Originally Posted by gokarter64 View Post
A common mistake on pucks is greasing them. I run them dry and they last me a really long time. Another question though is what are your track conditions? Loose dirt canchew them up pretty good too.
My track is kind of a clay dirt mix, med to high bite. Definitely can get dusty ,I've been wiping the grease and dirt off the pucks and greasing between runs...
Unfortunately the stock diff is HEAVY compared to the mip diff
Is this why almost everyone is running mod? Lol
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Old 11-15-2015, 02:08 AM   #12737
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C in C in will get you 3 degrees
Thank you
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Old 11-15-2015, 02:09 AM   #12738
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Originally Posted by chriso138 View Post
My track is kind of a clay dirt mix, med to high bite. Definitely can get dusty ,I've been wiping the grease and dirt off the pucks and greasing between runs...
Unfortunately the stock diff is HEAVY compared to the mip diff
Is this why almost everyone is running mod? Lol
MIP recommends greasing the pucks when running their Dif as I do. I know with the stock dif the pucks are a tight fit and as a result wear quicker.
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Old 11-15-2015, 03:03 AM   #12739
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Originally Posted by robbie_gtc View Post
Hey guys, just picked up an rb6 that I am going to be trying out. Currently have 2 b5m t5m and sc5m that I run 3 gear on. I love the way 3 gear changed the handling of the kit.

Question.. looking at the 3 gear for thr rb6. What have you noticed in changes in the way the car handles vs 4 gear?

I will be running the car in stock and mod indoors.


First how is the grip on the track you run at? If the grip is high enough to support a 3gear setup (carpet or slicks on wet clay or the like) then it'll work the best. Better corner speed and flatter braking are the two big pluses of the setup, though it will come at a cost of a little less forward bite. So if the grip isn't high enough to support a 3gear setup, it could be almost undrivable.

For stock I'd run at least the adjustable alum rear arm mounts and the alum front arm mount.

For mod I'd probably run the front brass arm mount and the RF brass mount to keep the weight up a little for stability. It's what I went to and seemed to help with a 7.5 strapped in. You could probably get away with the brass mounts in stock if you're really wanted to, but I felt it might make the car too heavy for 17.5.

I'd also consider a sideways battery mod to the chassis as well, but seem to work real well together, though I admit I never ran the 3gear setup with an inline battery.

Hope that helps.
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Old 11-15-2015, 08:48 PM   #12740
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Teufel racing,

Its a medium grip track... thing is I have never had rear grip issues with me AE cars with the 3 gear...

So I finished puttig some electronics I have a s spares while my esc and rec'r get here in the rb6 and threw in the 3 gear....

After that I placed my stock b5m next to the rb6 and took a picture... the motor is actually farther towards the rear with the 3 gear then the b5m. Battery(sideways) is actaully almost identical. And of course the rb6 has the more forward servo.. so the rb6 theoretically should have more rear grip with the 3 gear then the b5m has.. will be heading to the track later this week and will test it out.
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Old 11-16-2015, 04:44 AM   #12741
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Has anyone tried bolt on weight under the rear aluminum hubs where the set screw threads are? I run on medium bite clay battery sideways all the way back gold rear 32.5 pink front 32.5 1.6 2 hole and need a little more rear side bite. i already have 28 grams bolted to rear bulkhead.
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Old 11-16-2015, 07:05 PM   #12742
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Originally Posted by BiLL77 View Post
Has anyone tried bolt on weight under the rear aluminum hubs where the set screw threads are? I run on medium bite clay battery sideways all the way back gold rear 32.5 pink front 32.5 1.6 2 hole and need a little more rear side bite. i already have 28 grams bolted to rear bulkhead.
I don't know anyone who has, I don't think there's a lot of threads to work with on the hubs, so it's tough to say for sure if it's possible or not for that to work.

I run pink front and gold rear springs most of the time, but I run 1.6x2 pistons front and 1.7x2 pistons rear, with 35 oil front and 30 rear. I'm guessing your setup won't let the car roll as much or as fast as it needs to to get the side bite it needs. I'd try the 1.7x2 back there and run either 30 for oil or maybe 27.5 if it's cold. If that doesn't help, I'd play with the roll center some and adjust the rear camber link shims to get a little more roll in the chassis.
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Old 11-16-2015, 07:17 PM   #12743
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Originally Posted by robbie_gtc View Post
Teufel racing,

Its a medium grip track... thing is I have never had rear grip issues with me AE cars with the 3 gear...

So I finished puttig some electronics I have a s spares while my esc and rec'r get here in the rb6 and threw in the 3 gear....

After that I placed my stock b5m next to the rb6 and took a picture... the motor is actually farther towards the rear with the 3 gear then the b5m. Battery(sideways) is actaully almost identical. And of course the rb6 has the more forward servo.. so the rb6 theoretically should have more rear grip with the 3 gear then the b5m has.. will be heading to the track later this week and will test it out.

Got ya,
I haven't played with the 3gear setup on a med. grip track all that much as my local track has been high grip for just about all of summer and only now just lost some of the grip that slicks don't work like they had been and most went back to treads for the dryer track. If your AE car worked with a 3gear on med. grip, then I'd say the RB6 should be able to work in the same setup for the same grip, just might need a little,more work to get it to work than the AE car did. Some of the locals that do run the AE car with a 3gear setup in theirs have said that their cars didn't feel right with the local track changing from what it had been. I swapped out my 3gear tranny on the fly back to the 4gear setup when it looked like treads were the way to go and the car did seem to respond to the changes better than it was with the 3gear, for me at least.
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Old 11-16-2015, 10:31 PM   #12744
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Originally Posted by BiLL77 View Post
Has anyone tried bolt on weight under the rear aluminum hubs where the set screw threads are? I run on medium bite clay battery sideways all the way back gold rear 32.5 pink front 32.5 1.6 2 hole and need a little more rear side bite. i already have 28 grams bolted to rear bulkhead.
I have actually. 5 grams. it does help with rear grip but i didn't like how the car was severely numb. it takes away a lot of the agility of the car. I had better results going with the 3 line axles and putting the 2mm spacer outside of the hub. The increased distance from the hub pin and the outer edge of the hex really helped to create grip. You might need to change your pivots because this will make the car wider.
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Old 11-16-2015, 10:36 PM   #12745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BiLL77 View Post
Has anyone tried bolt on weight under the rear aluminum hubs where the set screw threads are? I run on medium bite clay battery sideways all the way back gold rear 32.5 pink front 32.5 1.6 2 hole and need a little more rear side bite. i already have 28 grams bolted to rear bulkhead.
You want everything outside the inner hinge pins as light as possible. Never add weight there. That is called unsprung weight. Bad things man. If you want to add weight, try an under the lipo brass weight or brass battery holders by Revolution. Rude Bits has lots of weights too. Kyosho sells a weight that bolts to the rear of the car. Avoid it. It acts as a pendulum and causes the rear to swing out. You want the weight in front of the rear axles. I personally added about 35 grams of weight recently and was amazed by how much more control I had.
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Old 11-17-2015, 04:34 AM   #12746
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Awesome thanks for the advice guy's, i'll try each one at a time and find out what feels the best.
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Old 11-17-2015, 06:20 AM   #12747
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hey nitroargi i finally have time to post what i found with the steering rack brace. for one i found that the directions from the buggy to the sc are different as the buugy calls for 1mm spacer under the bearings and the sc calls for it on top. any how i remo ed them from the buggy and put the 2 thin shims that came with the brace under the bearings and the brace ot the top by itself.no binding issues and car felt better. notsure if its because of the brace or because i lowered the rack 1mm. anyway i like it abd it seems fine.any questions hit me up
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Old 11-17-2015, 06:22 AM   #12748
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bill77 the weight out by the wheels like that only really helps on very bumpy tracks otherwise id stay away from it. try running c in in the front and and b in in the rear it adds .5 degrees of toe and produces more forward bite
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Old 11-17-2015, 08:31 AM   #12749
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Good setup for someone ordering the 2015 kit with an indoor clay/dirt slick track? What else should I order?
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Old 11-17-2015, 09:50 AM   #12750
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Good setup for someone ordering the 2015 kit with an indoor clay/dirt slick track? What else should I order?
Zack Roger's setup is a very good starting point..
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