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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-08-2012, 03:44 PM   #1231
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I do believe i just got the last rb6 speedtech has!!!! its the sign of a good day lol
You are in for a treat of a build, my friend! Bags and parts a bit mixed here and there, but if you've built any standard kit, it's no problem. Fit and finish is absolutely top shelf.
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Old 10-08-2012, 03:49 PM   #1232
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spot on

I've owned several different brands before and nothing equals what i just pulled out out that well packaged box.

i'm still jones'n just looking at this thing on the table. its incredible.
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Old 10-08-2012, 05:21 PM   #1233
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spot on

I've owned several different brands before and nothing equals what i just pulled out out that well packaged box.

i'm still jones'n just looking at this thing on the table. its incredible.
Tomorrow cannot come soon enough. A first full day of testing setup changes and finally breaking in my week old tires with 4 runs on them. Gonna be loving life.
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:02 PM   #1234
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I broke a shock shaft once. It was a VERY hard hit. Ripped off the entire left rear suspension on my SC-R. It can be done but you have to do something really stupid to do it.


As I was building my 6 I was like if you break something on this car its totally your fault or the guy that hit you's fault. Still have some wiring to clean up and setup to do, but its built!
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:36 PM   #1235
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I have yet to see a single kyosho buggy ever bend or need a shock shaft replacement... and don't get ceramic diff balls, you should run carbides in a kyosho diff. Id run ceramics in the thrust though.
I think John C. meant suspension shafts that go in the arms.

The battery posts are different to rb5.

The strc alum front suspension holder (and front hinge pin holder) are for rb5. Probably compatible, if you want to build a rb5 front.
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:47 PM   #1236
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Originally Posted by John.C View Post
Kyosho Hopups
- Alum Battery Post Set
- Alum Rear Hub Carrier Set (0.5 degrees)
- Vented Slipper Disk Set
- Alum Wide Rear Outer Susp Holder
- Alum Wide Rear Inner Susp Holder
- 'Type B' Middle Suspension Arm Set

Kyosho Spares
- Front Susp Arms
- Rear Susp Arms
- Front Hub Carrier Set
- Front Knuckle Set
- Front Shock Stay
- Rear Shock Stay
- Crank Arm Set
- Front/Rear Inner Susp Shafts (44mm)
- Front Outer Susp Shaft (25mm)

3rd party Hopups/Hardware
- Blue shims/spacers (various sizes)
- Blue lock nuts (various sizes)
- Ceramic diff balls
- Lunsford 1 1/8" Ti Turnbuckles
- STRC Alum Front Bulkhead
.

1) If you buy the metal suspension holders, buy the white delrin suspension shaft bushings. Don't use the metal ones. The black plastic ones work ok but wear quicker.
2) Don't buy ceramic diff balls like cpt america said above. If you some some spare diff stuff, buy the bfast rb5/rt5 kits as they're much better. I like the ones with the carbide diff balls and ceramic thrust balls.
3) Shock towers/arms/front carriers are nice to have, but I wouldn't buy multiple sets. They're pretty tough.
4) Buy a couple of sets of rear hubs. These are what broke on my RB5/RT5/ZX5 when I mucked up. Someone said that the new ones are supposed to be beefier though, so maybe they won't break (I haven't actually looked). If you're going alu I guess that's fine.
5) I was thinking that a few of the ball studs were a bit short when I assembled it, since I was putting spacers in. The bump steer spacers/studs come to mind.
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:53 PM   #1237
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+1 in the bfast!
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:17 PM   #1238
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Originally Posted by silvalis View Post
1) If you buy the metal suspension holders, buy the white delrin suspension shaft bushings. Don't use the metal ones. The black plastic ones work ok but wear quicker.
2) Don't buy ceramic diff balls like cpt america said above. If you some some spare diff stuff, buy the bfast rb5/rt5 kits as they're much better. I like the ones with the carbide diff balls and ceramic thrust balls.
3) Shock towers/arms/front carriers are nice to have, but I wouldn't buy multiple sets. They're pretty tough.
4) Buy a couple of sets of rear hubs. These are what broke on my RB5/RT5/ZX5 when I mucked up. Someone said that the new ones are supposed to be beefier though, so maybe they won't break (I haven't actually looked). If you're going alu I guess that's fine.
5) I was thinking that a few of the ball studs were a bit short when I assembled it, since I was putting spacers in. The bump steer spacers/studs come to mind.
.Why not ceramic diff balls?
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:31 PM   #1239
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.Why not ceramic diff balls?
they are so hard they don't really bite into the diff rings enough. on the up side, when your diff lets out the "honk" all you need is new rings. Ceramic diff balls wont even have the slightest wear.
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:32 PM   #1240
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.Why not ceramic diff balls?
They don't really work well - Have to bolt it down too hard to stop slip.

I'll let Cpt America explain further - he seems to have best knowledge re: ceramic diff balls in the kyosho balldiff.
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:35 PM   #1241
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You are in for a treat of a build, my friend! Bags and parts a bit mixed here and there, but if you've built any standard kit, it's no problem. Fit and finish is absolutely top shelf.
LoL im pretty sure i know what im in for, this is my 5 kyosho buggy.
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:38 PM   #1242
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As I was building my 6 I was like if you break something on this car its totally your fault or the guy that hit you's fault. Still have some wiring to clean up and setup to do, but its built!
Did you think that when you saw the steering rack? The rest of the car holds up well but it is not yet as sturdy as the RB5. I am sure it will be eventually.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:51 PM   #1243
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Few guys asked me to post pictures of my build.

I will be moving the servo wire into the plastic tunnel when I decide which servo I like better (shorty or full size) for weight distribution.

I'll also shorten up the transponder wire so it's not bunched up under the mount.



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Old 10-08-2012, 09:21 PM   #1244
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Hey guys thought I would share.
Did something alittle different with the setup of my RB6 electronics,I wanted to be able to switch back and forth between shorty and full lipo with out switching brackets and I will be trying low profile servo soon too,so here is my RB6 in support of breast cancer..



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Old 10-08-2012, 10:17 PM   #1245
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.Why not ceramic diff balls?
Quote:
Originally Posted by silvalis View Post
They don't really work well - Have to bolt it down too hard to stop slip.

I'll let Cpt America explain further - he seems to have best knowledge re: ceramic diff balls in the kyosho balldiff.
Some diffs work well with ceramic diff balls, and other diffs don't work well at all. For example, the B4 works great with ceramics, as with the schumachers. The kyosho is one of the buggies where the ceramic diff balls don't work.

They don't work well because they don't generate enough grip to keep from slipping (ceramics are SO smooth, they are actually slippery). Even with perfectly roughed up / sanded rings, unless the diff is OVERLY tight, the diff will bark/slip. What you end up with is either a diff that slips and barks and eventually ruins itself, or a diff that is so tight, the car's rotation suffers. Ceramics literally harm the car's ability to handle and get around the track quickly.

If you go with quality b-fast carbides, and make sure you break the diff in properly and NEVER let it slip, you will have a diff that you can run a little looser, helping the car rotate properly, but one that will also grab like a mofo, popping wheelies down the track.

Why the B4's diff works well and doesn't slip with ceramics, but the kyosho's diff doesn't, I'm not sure.... there is something in it's engineering that keeps it from being ideal. Trust me, run carbides in the main gear, and ceramics in the thrust.... you will have a diff that is tough, doesn't slip, that you can loose enough to get the car to rotate however much you want it to. A properly built in carbide kyosho diff will literally out-last / out-maintain an AE diff with ceramics.

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