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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-15-2015, 02:50 PM   #11686
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Without getting to scientific on Zach rogers setup what does the third hole do?

I recently went back to the standard 2hole in the arm and it made the car better.

What conditions would the 3rd hole be better/or what does it do?
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Old 02-15-2015, 04:35 PM   #11687
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It makes the shock softer
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Old 02-15-2015, 11:27 PM   #11688
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K..

So that gives the car more rear traction, but gets unstable faster.. Right?

K, then going to a shorter link gives the car more rear traction and helps it square up faster. So I did this, but did I basically cancel out that when i added a ballstud washer under the rear ballstud?
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Old 02-16-2015, 09:46 AM   #11689
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K..

So that gives the car more rear traction, but gets unstable faster.. Right?

K, then going to a shorter link gives the car more rear traction and helps it square up faster. So I did this, but did I basically cancel out that when i added a ballstud washer under the rear ballstud?
When you soften the rear it will make the car more responsive but also give it more traction and less overall steering. Depending on which side you placed the washer, a more level link or longer link will roll more. A shorter link should give more straight line traction but if you are trying to lock in the rear go longer. 1 washer under the ballstud is a minor adjustment as opposed to a longer link, major adjustment.
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Old 02-16-2015, 07:38 PM   #11690
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So I was thinking about stuff to try on the car and noticed the AE guys run limiters. I saw a buddy of mine's shock and saw that their pistons go to the top of the shock body, I'm not sure why but with our car it doesn't appear to be the case.

When I took mine apart I was running 19mm shaft exposure up front with long shock ends and 25.5 rear with long shock ends (100.5mm total shock length).

I added 1mm to the front and 2mm to the rear with the same amount of droop and was able to get the piston a tick higher. They dont hit the caps, but Im curious what this will do to the car.


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Old 02-17-2015, 01:31 AM   #11691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K_King View Post
So I was thinking about stuff to try on the car and noticed the AE guys run limiters. I saw a buddy of mine's shock and saw that their pistons go to the top of the shock body, I'm not sure why but with our car it doesn't appear to be the case.

When I took mine apart I was running 19mm shaft exposure up front with long shock ends and 25.5 rear with long shock ends (100.5mm total shock length).

I added 1mm to the front and 2mm to the rear with the same amount of droop and was able to get the piston a tick higher. They dont hit the caps, but Im curious what this will do to the car.


Kevin,
I run 1mm internal spacers in my shocks. Partly a carry over from the 1/8th side. The theory Paul King gave me was that at full down travel, there's still some oil left under the piston so there's less of a chance the shock would feel inconsistent or get an air gap/flat feel when the oil has to go back through the piston. At least I think I remember that right. Been a while since I got that tip from Paul for the 1/8th shocks. I'm not sure if it helps or not, but I still build my shocks the same way.
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Old 02-17-2015, 08:00 AM   #11692
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A couple of my friends use an extra O ring so that it acts like a bump stop.
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Old 02-17-2015, 08:02 AM   #11693
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I run my rb6 in mm tried the sideways lipo didn't like it..which way does most prefer to run electronics
Inline for indoor clay? Running mod. Esc in front of back
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Old 02-17-2015, 08:50 AM   #11694
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I run my rb6 in mm tried the sideways lipo didn't like it..which way does most prefer to run electronics
Inline for indoor clay? Running mod. Esc in front of back
I run stock so it might not be the same, I prefer ESC in front of the battery with a shorty up against the motor. I have tried the ESC in front of the motor. They feel very similar but I find it necessary to add weight when the ESC is behind the battery.
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Old 02-17-2015, 08:57 AM   #11695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobamiester View Post
Hard to say, alot of variables. I run a 23T with an 8.5.

Hi,
Thx i tryed it and it was good. Motor had 60C so there is room for more, but on the small track it was enought for me.
The only thing, i had Grip rolls, so i switched to the hardes Avid springs. It was the first time for me driving a 2wd. It was so much fun.



Got my gear diff today. Do you guys have suggestions what oil is good to start on high grip? Is it like the touring car 1k - 2k?

Greetings
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Old 02-17-2015, 01:53 PM   #11696
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Hi i am looking for a couple parts to piece together an RB5. if anyone has a motor plate and slipper plates left over from upgrading please shoot me a pm. Thanks, Eric
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Old 02-18-2015, 04:28 PM   #11697
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c-in/c-in vs d-in/d-in..

Whats the difference, which one for a medium wet/moist surface?
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Old 02-18-2015, 04:32 PM   #11698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
c-in/c-in vs d-in/d-in..

Whats the difference, which one for a medium wet/moist surface?
Din in narrower which will give the car more roll, which can be more grip but not always.
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Old 02-18-2015, 05:05 PM   #11699
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So C in makes it wider.. Which means less roll/traction?

Which would you go?
Not like thats an easy change after you put your car all back together unforutanetly.
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Old 02-18-2015, 07:45 PM   #11700
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Go as narrow as your traction allows. It's actually pretty easy to change out. You can get both out with 6 screws.
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