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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-13-2014, 07:49 PM   #11251
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subscribing, kind of a newb to buggies but I think the Engineering and quality is superior to AE / Losi.

Am I wrong?

Primarily will be running on a nice indoor track, just wanna have fun with everyone else.
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Old 12-14-2014, 02:41 AM   #11252
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Anyone use or have used the j concept front brace? For some strange reason mine pops off very easily. In fact this past race weekend it popped off twice. Small bobble here and then plink it flies off. Any advice?
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Old 12-14-2014, 04:03 PM   #11253
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Originally Posted by RBraswell View Post
Anyone use or have used the j concept front brace? For some strange reason mine pops off very easily. In fact this past race weekend it popped off twice. Small bobble here and then plink it flies off. Any advice?
I have one and it did pop out once but it was when when I broke the front arm at the pivot. I'll keep an eye on it. Makes me wish I'd got the blue one cause black is hard to see on clay
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Old 12-14-2014, 06:20 PM   #11254
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I have been experimenting with various setups on my RB6 and still always end up back with my stock mid motor setup with which I start with at most tracks.

The one thing that I typically fight with my setup is rear grip. I am looking for some advice on which direction to proceed to get more rear grip. I am looking for more low speed side bite as well as forward traction. Forward traction is the bigger problem of the two. I need to be able to pull more throttle. The setup is not bad, it is just not a setup that I feel that I can push when I need to in the mains. As soon as I push the car, I overdrive the grip level in the chassis. My setup is attached. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-photo-11.jpg  

Last edited by Hollywood_26; 12-14-2014 at 06:56 PM. Reason: To be more clear
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Old 12-14-2014, 07:09 PM   #11255
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Originally Posted by RBraswell View Post
Anyone use or have used the j concept front brace? For some strange reason mine pops off very easily. In fact this past race weekend it popped off twice. Small bobble here and then plink it flies off. Any advice?
http://www.amain.com/kyosho-395mm-su...-2-rt5/p150085

I use these threaded hinge pins on my kyosho rb5. These will keep the front brace captured so the brace can't ever pop off.
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Old 12-14-2014, 08:42 PM   #11256
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Originally Posted by Hollywood_26 View Post
I have been experimenting with various setups on my RB6 and still always end up back with my stock mid motor setup with which I start with at most tracks.

The one thing that I typically fight with my setup is rear grip. I am looking for some advice on which direction to proceed to get more rear grip. I am looking for more low speed side bite as well as forward traction. Forward traction is the bigger problem of the two. I need to be able to pull more throttle. The setup is not bad, it is just not a setup that I feel that I can push when I need to in the mains. As soon as I push the car, I overdrive the grip level in the chassis. My setup is attached. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!
On your rear arm mount inserts, are you running b in on front or back?
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Old 12-15-2014, 09:03 AM   #11257
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Originally Posted by Jack Smash View Post
On your rear arm mount inserts, are you running b in on front or back?
I actually miswrote that on the setup sheet. I am currently B-out rear, and B-in front.
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Old 12-15-2014, 10:25 AM   #11258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hollywood_26 View Post
I have been experimenting with various setups on my RB6 and still always end up back with my stock mid motor setup with which I start with at most tracks.

The one thing that I typically fight with my setup is rear grip. I am looking for some advice on which direction to proceed to get more rear grip. I am looking for more low speed side bite as well as forward traction. Forward traction is the bigger problem of the two. I need to be able to pull more throttle. The setup is not bad, it is just not a setup that I feel that I can push when I need to in the mains. As soon as I push the car, I overdrive the grip level in the chassis. My setup is attached. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!
I too had the same concerns you are having. I had played with roll centers, ride height and even rear track width to try and gain more rear traction. Sure the results were evident but only in small amounts.

The only change that had large gains for me are battery placement and rear droop. I have found that the RB6 is sensitive to where you place the battery. For me moving the battery to the rear got me more rear grip to the point where I needed less rear weight to gain some rotation back. Also less rear droop restricted the weight shift to the front planting the rear during cornering and exit. For me this is what helped.

I feel that the true advantage to a shorty pack is not just the weight savings (which may not always be a benefit) it's the ability to shift the weight along the chassis as a tuning option. Droop also plays a huge role in this case which controls the amount of weight being shifted front and back.
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Old 12-15-2014, 10:30 AM   #11259
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Originally Posted by Hollywood_26 View Post
I actually miswrote that on the setup sheet. I am currently B-out rear, and B-in front.
Ok, I see a few things you can try that I think would help out. First, 4deg of toe is a lot ananus great on loose dirt tracks for forward bite but might actually lower traction on hard packed ones, especially side bite. Try b-out/ b-out.
Next, your roll centers are a bit out of wack. Chang both front and rear outer to a 1mm shim. Your rear camber link is pretty short on that setup, go in on the tower side and maybe out 1 hole on hub.

Move rear top shock location in one or two holes.
I'd start with those changes and see where you are at. You can also also reverse steering rack so arrow is pointing back, this will calm down the steering.

Try all that and let me know what you are feeling.

P.s makes sure your front foams haven't gone too soft and the tires aren't ballooned, this will make almost any setup undriveable
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Old 12-15-2014, 11:52 AM   #11260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vincent_Diesel View Post
I too had the same concerns you are having. I had played with roll centers, ride height and even rear track width to try and gain more rear traction. Sure the results were evident but only in small amounts.

The only change that had large gains for me are battery placement and rear droop. I have found that the RB6 is sensitive to where you place the battery. For me moving the battery to the rear got me more rear grip to the point where I needed less rear weight to gain some rotation back. Also less rear droop restricted the weight shift to the front planting the rear during cornering and exit. For me this is what helped.

I feel that the true advantage to a shorty pack is not just the weight savings (which may not always be a benefit) it's the ability to shift the weight along the chassis as a tuning option. Droop also plays a huge role in this case which controls the amount of weight being shifted front and back.
Thanks for the advice! I have tried running my shorty in many different battery locations and have found what I feel is the right balance of f/r weight ratio for what I like to feel in how the car transitions. I have not tried taking droop out of the rear shocks. I will give that a try on my next practice day to help some of the over-rotation under braking; however, I do not see this helping much on power as the weight has already transferred to the rear and rear droop is a non-issue at that point. I would still need help with forward traction on power. Correct me if I am wrong in this thinking. Thanks!!
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Old 12-15-2014, 12:01 PM   #11261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Smash View Post
Ok, I see a few things you can try that I think would help out. First, 4deg of toe is a lot ananus great on loose dirt tracks for forward bite but might actually lower traction on hard packed ones, especially side bite. Try b-out/ b-out.
Next, your roll centers are a bit out of wack. Chang both front and rear outer to a 1mm shim. Your rear camber link is pretty short on that setup, go in on the tower side and maybe out 1 hole on hub.

Move rear top shock location in one or two holes.
I'd start with those changes and see where you are at. You can also also reverse steering rack so arrow is pointing back, this will calm down the steering.

Try all that and let me know what you are feeling.

P.s makes sure your front foams haven't gone too soft and the tires aren't ballooned, this will make almost any setup undriveable
Thanks for all the tips! I will start with resetting my roll centers, the camber links, as I know that I have sort of gone on a tangent with those. I think I am chasing another handling characteristic and just crutching the setup change that I really need with shimming the ball studs and really going off the reservation with roll centers. I will reset my roll centers as per your advice.

I have also noticed that a lot of people have been reversing the steering rack. I didn't know what that particular change does, so I never tried it, but after your advice, I think that will help tremendously. I have been running Three Rib tires to help calm the steering down, but if I reverse the steering rack, I might be able to go back to running a pin front tire.

I will also try the different shock mounting locations as well.

Thanks!!
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Old 12-15-2014, 12:01 PM   #11262
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 View Post
subscribing, kind of a newb to buggies but I think the Engineering and quality is superior to AE / Losi.

Am I wrong?

Primarily will be running on a nice indoor track, just wanna have fun with everyone else.
Over 40 racer
In my opinion I won't say superior the engineering and quality is definitely superb!
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Old 12-15-2014, 12:32 PM   #11263
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Default RB6 To RT6

Hi been looking for the thread, but can't seem to find it, I would like to convert my RB6 to the RT6 if it's cheap enough, thanks guys
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Old 12-15-2014, 12:47 PM   #11264
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Hi been looking for the thread, but can't seem to find it, I would like to convert my RB6 to the RT6 if it's cheap enough, thanks guys
might not be that bad..i converted my rb5 to rb6..main thing was the chassis. i went on amain to compare parts and pics..and you can see whats compatible..might run you about $200 maybe a little less?..u figure the chassis and cvd will be the most..arms,towers,body mounts and a body also quick change hubs.. go for it!!
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Old 12-15-2014, 11:11 PM   #11265
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Just finished the build of my rb6, totally stock. Man the Kyosho instructions aren't very good. I also had issues with a couple screws not being used where the manual said they were, and instead other screws needed. The wheels that I got are slightly different colors too. One is a very Snow White and the other is almost a light eggshell white...little disappointed in that but...

The car is still amazing! Makes my b4.2 look cheap.

I was surprised how long the build took. Especially considering this is the second rb6 I have built and I have had experience with the rb5 as well. Taking my time to make sure everything was working and fitting properly it took about 4.5 hours. My 22 2.0 took only about 3 hours building the same way.
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