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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-03-2014, 06:02 AM   #11026
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Arghhhhhhhhhhh!!! I just ordered my RB6 and a mate's RB6 RTR today So excited!!!
Is there a quick link to Zack Rogers setup? And I heard about the driling of the rear suspension arms. Picture anywhere?
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Old 11-03-2014, 06:29 AM   #11027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WagwanBumba View Post
Arghhhhhhhhhhh!!! I just ordered my RB6 and a mate's RB6 RTR today So excited!!!
Is there a quick link to Zack Rogers setup? And I heard about the driling of the rear suspension arms. Picture anywhere?
I can post a pic later
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Old 11-03-2014, 06:41 AM   #11028
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WagwanBumba View Post
Arghhhhhhhhhhh!!! I just ordered my RB6 and a mate's RB6 RTR today So excited!!!
Is there a quick link to Zack Rogers setup? And I heard about the driling of the rear suspension arms. Picture anywhere?
Awesome! Welcome to the family! Haha. Here's the link.... Keep in mind this is only for mid motor. There's no need to drill the arms when in rear motor form since you'll already have two shock holes. I'll post a pic of my car soon... I might be a little too far up on the arm but at least they're even. And I was trying to keep the hole where there was the most plastic so I could use a longer screw. http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...nmans20140821/

Last edited by rpboggs1; 11-03-2014 at 02:09 PM.
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Old 11-03-2014, 07:59 AM   #11029
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Thanks guys. I want to run mid-motor because it just seems to suit my driving style a bit more. The rear motor guys seem to be turning in, powersliding the rear end and powering back out of the corner, whereas I prefer a bit smoother line. Would I be right in saying that mid-motor cars are more suited for that style of driving?
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Old 11-03-2014, 08:08 AM   #11030
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As long as the track is suited for it. If you're out at a loose dirt track RM will be better regardless of your driving style. Even my home track which is nice clay and misters, sometimes MM is still loose. I'm just stubborn and like my MM, I probably could have been faster with a RM car.
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Old 11-03-2014, 09:05 AM   #11031
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No one has tried the extra arm hole in RM? I'm fighting for fwd bite , so I plan to next day out.
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Old 11-03-2014, 09:25 AM   #11032
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Originally Posted by AlanHall View Post
No one has tried the extra arm hole in RM? I'm fighting for fwd bite , so I plan to next day out.
What kind of track do you run on? Hit Snyder up or try and find his rear motor set up, he never had a forward bite problem, he did have a "I can't keep my front tires on the ground" problem though.
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Old 11-03-2014, 09:28 AM   #11033
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He's posted up In a Facebook discussion about giving it a shot. Im going to try that and moving my battery back more. Track is clay but I believe it has a sand mix or somthing being down near the coast. It's probably the losest track I've ever driven on.
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Old 11-03-2014, 12:47 PM   #11034
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Here is the Zack Rogers Setup Sheet:
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...nmans20140821/

I just drilled my arms last night, so:

1: Zach says drill this hole on the arm side that already has 2 shock hole positions
2. Drill the new (3rd) hole the same distance as the first 2 holes are spaced. I measured the original 2 holes are 4.25mm apart center to center. So measure 4.25mm further in C/C and mark the arm.
3. Use the flashing line in center of the arm to find vertical line so as to drill right in the middle of arm top to bottom, with the 4.25mm in left to right.
4. I used a 2.4mm drill bit for the hole, then tapped with an M3 screw.
5. Install shocks!
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Old 11-03-2014, 05:05 PM   #11035
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Trying to install the Avid slipper. I used the first washer in the kit but Spurs sticks out to far.
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Old 11-03-2014, 09:31 PM   #11036
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To run the avid slipper, you need to run their topshaft also.
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Old 11-04-2014, 03:42 AM   #11037
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anybody got any advice on how to remove a stud out of the aluminum rear hub? I snapped a ball stud off just leaving the stud threaded in. Thinking about drilling a small hole in the center and then see if I can back it out.
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Old 11-04-2014, 07:43 AM   #11038
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So I know you can run the RB5 arms to do prevent this but I dont have them yet.

If I land wrong or the car starts to get wrong the car get's really upset and hard to get back under control (like to much front traction) what can I do to prevent this? I currently just have the stock setup with 1.4x3/1.6 32.5/30 wt.
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Old 11-04-2014, 09:51 AM   #11039
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Ran last weekend with a shorty battery all the way forward with ESC between motor and shorty pack. I was struggling for traction in MM -- B5Ms seemed to be doing well on same conditions. I do not want to go RM because I feel it doesn't fit my driving style -- besides at our track MM is the rage right now.

I am running the latest Kevin King MM setup with new drilled shock location.

Trying to get more traction I decided to run saddles all the way back against a shaved motor guard. Electronics between servo and saddles. Doing some math I have gained around 50 grams of weight and moving the saddles all the way back has changed weight distribution to the rear -- maybe?

Anyways what should I expect from this setup change? I am going in cold this weekend to a big race and would like to get a sense of what it'll behave like.

Ultimately I am looking for more rear traction and decrease steering just a tiny bit. I feel right now my RB6 oversteers coming out of turns and just feels too aggressive for my liking.
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Old 11-04-2014, 09:56 AM   #11040
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vincent_Diesel View Post
Ultimately I am looking for more rear traction and decrease steering just a tiny bit. I feel right now my RB6 oversteers coming out of turns and just feels too aggressive for my liking.
Have you tried MIP pucks? Gord Tessmann suggested I try them as the RB6 has a lot of dog-bone plunge which he thinks causes extra friction and fights the suspension compression on-power. I switched over to the MIPs and it was a lot better; the car actually squatted.

Give it a try.

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