R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

Print Wikipost

Like Tree25Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-30-2014, 09:02 PM   #10996
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Bakersfield,Ca
Posts: 1
Default

Has anyone tried messing with the toe/track width settings at all? Or did everyone follow in the footsteps of Tebo when he decided that D-in/D-in was the best? I have been doing some serious testing with my buddy Zach Rodgers, going from 2 all they way to 5 degrees of toe to get more clarification. What we have discovered is that, with the 17.8 drilled hole, the c-in/c-in (3degres of toe) was much more stable/predictable than d-in/d-in (which unpredictably stepped out on occasion). I also tried c-in/d-in testing 2.5 toe and 3.5 toe. My findings were what I expected... 3.5 toe had less rotation and more forward bite while cornering (a little push) which I would recommend on a medium/ low bite track. 2.5 had very quick rotation allowing me to run my fastest lap times on our medium/high bite track. Zach started messing around with rear droop with medium and short shock eyelets and just going from long to medium he said his car drove way better running mod... If you feel like you're waiting on your car in the corners (medium to low speed) I would definitely recommend testing toe and droop settings.
NastyNate88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2014, 09:33 AM   #10997
Tech Master
 
STUBYSLAP31's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,163
Trader Rating: 27 (97%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dpcardoza View Post
Not necessarily rb6 related but anybody have an opinion on the D4 Maxzilla 17.5 vs the Fantom Ion w/12.5 mm high Torque rotor? I've read good things about the apex but it appears they are no longer available. Will be running 17.5 blinky.
the main reason they arent available currently is because the d4/ionv5 motors are roar legal so the apex2/killshots are getting fased out.

i recently switched from apex2 ht w 12.5 pro ht rotor to ion v5 with the same goodies and have really liked it so far
__________________
TEAM ASSOCIATED / REEDY / PRO-LINE RACING / SCHELLE RACING / SCS NISSAN
AE CARS / PRO-LINE BODIES & TIRES / REEDY ESC & MOTORS & BATTERIES / SCHELLE NOVA SLIPPER AND ACCESSORIES
ROCKY MOUNTAIN R/C RACEWAY / COLORADO FAST TRACK

STUBYSLAP31 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2014, 01:36 PM   #10998
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,240
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
What pistons are most running for medium bite track?

It seems like most are running either
1.4x3/1.6
1.4x3/1.4x3
55x2/55x2
or 1.6/1.5

What would you recommend?
Also 32.5/27.5 or 32.5/30?
You want my base setup? Car has been pretty consistent since I have had it. I have played around a lot with setup. I haven't raced much this summer but it's still really good setup. Setup is for IRCR haven't had it out to Ogden yet.
chevmaro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2014, 03:33 PM   #10999
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 234
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NastyNate88 View Post
Has anyone tried messing with the toe/track width settings at all? Or did everyone follow in the footsteps of Tebo when he decided that D-in/D-in was the best? I have been doing some serious testing with my buddy Zach Rodgers, going from 2 all they way to 5 degrees of toe to get more clarification. What we have discovered is that, with the 17.8 drilled hole, the c-in/c-in (3degres of toe) was much more stable/predictable than d-in/d-in (which unpredictably stepped out on occasion). I also tried c-in/d-in testing 2.5 toe and 3.5 toe. My findings were what I expected... 3.5 toe had less rotation and more forward bite while cornering (a little push) which I would recommend on a medium/ low bite track. 2.5 had very quick rotation allowing me to run my fastest lap times on our medium/high bite track. Zach started messing around with rear droop with medium and short shock eyelets and just going from long to medium he said his car drove way better running mod... If you feel like you're waiting on your car in the corners (medium to low speed) I would definitely recommend testing toe and droop settings.
I just measured droop on the rear and its 25mm which seems like a ton for a 2wd buggy. Running long eyelets with 27mm stroke, inside tower and 17.8 inside hole on arm. 24mm ride height and 49mm before the rear tires begin to lift off the table.
potatobed409 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2014, 04:47 PM   #11000
Tech Elite
 
Teufel Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sparks Nv.
Posts: 2,156
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NastyNate88 View Post
Has anyone tried messing with the toe/track width settings at all? Or did everyone follow in the footsteps of Tebo when he decided that D-in/D-in was the best? I have been doing some serious testing with my buddy Zach Rodgers, going from 2 all they way to 5 degrees of toe to get more clarification. What we have discovered is that, with the 17.8 drilled hole, the c-in/c-in (3degres of toe) was much more stable/predictable than d-in/d-in (which unpredictably stepped out on occasion). I also tried c-in/d-in testing 2.5 toe and 3.5 toe. My findings were what I expected... 3.5 toe had less rotation and more forward bite while cornering (a little push) which I would recommend on a medium/ low bite track. 2.5 had very quick rotation allowing me to run my fastest lap times on our medium/high bite track. Zach started messing around with rear droop with medium and short shock eyelets and just going from long to medium he said his car drove way better running mod... If you feel like you're waiting on your car in the corners (medium to low speed) I would definitely recommend testing toe and droop settings.

I have played with rear toe and track width, more so on the rear track width. What I have seen is that a lot of racers have gone the D in D in route which does two things. Gives you the narrow pivot, but also narrows the track width at the same time. When I measured my rear blocks from D out/D out to D in/D in, I got a difference of 4mm from widest to narrowest. That gave me the impression that when just changing the adjustable inserts, while all else is left stock, the rear track width was changing. I decided in order to have the ability to play with rear toe/pivot and track width independently I needed the following:

http://www.amain.com/Kyosho-5x7mm-Al...llar-4/p374590
(these have both the two 2mm spacers and the two 1mm spacers) Need two packs to get the 4 1mm spacers to have the most track width adjustment.

http://www.amain.com/Kyosho-Wheel-Shaft-1/p151836
need two to replace the stock axle stubs. these are 2mm longer behind the pin hole for the wheel hex.

With the use of the above, I could independently adjust both the rear pivot setting and track width. I started out just using two 2mm spacers and then switched to using 4 of the 1mm spacers. That way I could keep a full rear track width and have a narrow pivot and if I needed to narrow the rear track width, I still had that as an option. Whereas most go Din/D in and have no option to adjust for track width with the stock parts or some other after market parts. After playing with a number of settings and hubs, I am currently running B in/D in (RF and RR respectfully) for a rear toe of -2 with .5 V2 hubs, for a total of 2.5 rear toe, and a full rear track width. I did have it set to -1mm of rear track width per side, but went back to the full width. Seems to be good so far. I know a few racers who run -3/-3.5 rear toe and always say they need more steering because of the push they get. Many times opting to change their drag brake settings to get steering in stead of maybe running less rear toe and letting the front end do what it should do. Just a thought or my thought on the rear track width/pivot setting.
__________________
J.Mikoliczyk

RB6 - MBX7R Eco
Mugen Seki, Fantom Racing, Cheater Racing
Houston's Engine Service
Teufel Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2014, 05:53 PM   #11001
Tech Master
 
3srcracing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,772
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

To mount the ESC/battery against the motor did you guys just cut the little piece that holds the two pillars up?

So instead of a one solid piece you have two pieces to hold the battery in.. If that makes any sense haha.
3srcracing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2014, 08:44 PM   #11002
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: iowa
Posts: 470
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

im running the Zach set up with d out so its like stock rb6 on an out door track and its awesome
__________________
Mike Richardson
At the track having fun with my friends
blingy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2014, 08:54 PM   #11003
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 635
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 3srcracing View Post
To mount the ESC/battery against the motor did you guys just cut the little piece that holds the two pillars up?

So instead of a one solid piece you have two pieces to hold the battery in.. If that makes any sense haha.
Yes. Then get two small pieces of foam and fill the space on each side of the battery. The battery strap fits tight, you have to "make it fit" by bending the posts in a little but they won't break.

Mount your ESC and Rx right up against the battery holder to keep it from flexing.
CaseyD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2014, 12:10 AM   #11004
Tech Elite
 
K_King's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 4,196
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to K_King
Default

Going to try a gear diff with 7k tomorrow
__________________
TLR - Spektrum - Pro-Line - Team Orion - Stickit1 - Schelle
K_King is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2014, 09:22 AM   #11005
Suspended
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,990
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Going to try a gear diff with 7k tomorrow
Why?
__________________
Pimp Formally Known as OG
PFKAOG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2014, 09:47 AM   #11006
Tech Elite
 
K_King's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 4,196
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to K_King
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PFKAOG View Post
Why?
I've never tried a gear diff. I've been told 7k to 10k by a K driver so I'm curious on what it does. One of our locals runs 6k in his and you wouldn't even know he had a gear
__________________
TLR - Spektrum - Pro-Line - Team Orion - Stickit1 - Schelle
K_King is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2014, 09:10 PM   #11007
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Sutter, California
Posts: 1,188
Trader Rating: 82 (100%+)
Default

I'm switching from rear to mid motor. My rear motor was kit stock. I'm doing my monthly amain odds and ends purchase. Running on a high bite indoor clay track. What shock Springs and pistons should I buy as a tuning range?
dpcardoza is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2014, 10:06 PM   #11008
Tech Addict
 
MrHistory's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 597
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

I'm installing the MIP pucks drivetrain. Do I use the brass collars between knuckle bearings?
__________________
Irwin RC 1/8th Pan Car Specialists - www.irwinrc.com
SPM Competition, WRC Racing, MIP, Novarossi
MrHistory is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2014, 10:27 PM   #11009
Tech Regular
 
Holmberg418's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Blaine,Mn
Posts: 487
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
I have played with rear toe and track width, more so on the rear track width. What I have seen is that a lot of racers have gone the D in D in route which does two things. Gives you the narrow pivot, but also narrows the track width at the same time. When I measured my rear blocks from D out/D out to D in/D in, I got a difference of 4mm from widest to narrowest. That gave me the impression that when just changing the adjustable inserts, while all else is left stock, the rear track width was changing. I decided in order to have the ability to play with rear toe/pivot and track width independently I needed the following:

http://www.amain.com/Kyosho-5x7mm-Al...llar-4/p374590
(these have both the two 2mm spacers and the two 1mm spacers) Need two packs to get the 4 1mm spacers to have the most track width adjustment.

http://www.amain.com/Kyosho-Wheel-Shaft-1/p151836
need two to replace the stock axle stubs. these are 2mm longer behind the pin hole for the wheel hex.

With the use of the above, I could independently adjust both the rear pivot setting and track width. I started out just using two 2mm spacers and then switched to using 4 of the 1mm spacers. That way I could keep a full rear track width and have a narrow pivot and if I needed to narrow the rear track width, I still had that as an option. Whereas most go Din/D in and have no option to adjust for track width with the stock parts or some other after market parts. After playing with a number of settings and hubs, I am currently running B in/D in (RF and RR respectfully) for a rear toe of -2 with .5 V2 hubs, for a total of 2.5 rear toe, and a full rear track width. I did have it set to -1mm of rear track width per side, but went back to the full width. Seems to be good so far. I know a few racers who run -3/-3.5 rear toe and always say they need more steering because of the push they get. Many times opting to change their drag brake settings to get steering in stead of maybe running less rear toe and letting the front end do what it should do. Just a thought or my thought on the rear track width/pivot setting.



When you run 3 line axles it changes the binding characteristics... So you were not just changing the track width. The reason you can get away with less toe is because of those axles. Because the were creating more rear bind.
__________________
Kyosho America, Hobbywing, Jconcepts, Lunsford, JTP
Full Throttle R/C Raceway www.ftrcr.com
Holmberg418 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-01-2014, 10:53 PM   #11010
Tech Elite
 
Teufel Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sparks Nv.
Posts: 2,156
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Holmberg418 View Post
When you run 3 line axles it changes the binding characteristics... So you were not just changing the track width. The reason you can get away with less toe is because of those axles. Because the were creating more rear bind.
Bind with those axles? How so?
__________________
J.Mikoliczyk

RB6 - MBX7R Eco
Mugen Seki, Fantom Racing, Cheater Racing
Houston's Engine Service
Teufel Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Ryde it like you stole it: the Ryde Drivers thread. old_skoolie Australian Racing 22990 12-13-2017 12:58 AM
Island Raceway & Hobby (IRH), Lindenhurst, NY - Indoor Off-Road Track in Long Island Asharus Northeast Racing Forum 15037 12-11-2017 08:18 PM
Kyosho Ultima RB5 Thread Drift_Buggy Electric Off-Road 14641 11-10-2015 09:28 AM
Kyosho Ultima SC aeRayls Electric Off-Road 2599 04-27-2014 05:30 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:03 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net