KalEl63

iTrader: (13)

It adjusts the roll centre this is how I understand it but could be wrong.

LOWER ROLL-CENTER - More shims at the top - Recommended for rough track to gain stability.
HIGHER ROLL-CENTER - More shims at the bottom - Recommended for smooth track to gain more steering.

rchogfan

iTrader: (13)

Do u race mod or stock? They make one for 17.5 that is lighter but would break under a mod motor. A buddy of mine just ordered one. He spoke very highly of it. It Makes the car smoother as it eliminates all slop from drive shaft.

3srcracing

iTrader: (29)

What insert do you use in the front casterblock?

rchogfan

iTrader: (13)

caster block position is iN. (wide/standard). I've never adjusted it.

littleZEN

iTrader: (30)

The best to me is the schelle racing. The cheapest would be exotek.

KalEl63

iTrader: (13)

Yeah I will be racing stock 17.5T.
That's the same thing said to me from our club member

WagwanBumba

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone tried to run the RB6 MM on on medium hard pack but with some loose loam? Just bought a B5 but don't really like the look of it. Did also think about the TLR22. Having a hard time picking between the 2!

K_King

iTrader: (47)

For me if I put the shims on top I feel like it doesn't dump over as much on entry.


"Moving the Steering Spindle Up and Down changes two things:

It changes the Total down travel your front end has. More Down travel in the front will give you more predictable landing off of jumps. It will also give you less steering as you exit the corner on power. Less Down Travel in the front will make your car less predictable landing off of jumps, such as sticking into the dirt like a lawn dart if you land extremely nose down. The advantage of less down travel is increased corner exiting steering when you are on power. I like to use this adjustment to quickly see if increasing or decreasing the downtravel in my shocks will provide the corner handling that I desire.


The spindle height will also change the amount of bump steer your car has. Lowering the spindle will give the front end more Bump-In. Raising the spindle will give the front end more Bump-Out. This is if you do not add or take out any washers under the steering ball end. Bump-In will give you more steering entering and through the corner. It will also make your car feel more aggressive to initial steering inputs. Bump-Out will give you less steering entering the corner but more through and exiting the corner. So in high speed sweepers Bump-Out will give you a more consistent steering “Feel”. Bump-Out will also dull some of the initial steering inputs. I personally like to use Zero bump in or out. So if I change the height of the spindle I have to add or subtract shims from under the ball end to keep the Bump at Zero."

CaseyD

iTrader: (2)

Our track is sometimes unpredictable, some days the traction is sic, some days we cant seem to get the moisture just right and it gets super dry and dusty. In this order is where the cars fall off;
Pre-Maifield setups 22's in MM were the first cars to start getting loose,
Next were our RB6s in MM
And last, some how the B5Ms would still be hooking up.
Not sure where the Maifield set ups are going to fall in, no one at our track uses his setups, that I know of. The 4th hole mod and adding 50+ grams is very interesting.
All this talk about the new hole on the RB6 arm started for our track when Zack was trying to find the traction the AE had when the track went away.

3srcracing

iTrader: (29)

Built the car, with the most part no problems. Messed up the steering, need to go back and take a look at it.

And I couldn't build the diff so save my life. For some reason no matter what I did I couldn't get the bolt to thread on the nut (in the insert). Originally thought it was the wrong nut, so I took it apart to see nope threads right on. What might I be doing wrong? Double triple checked to make sure everything is assembled correctly. (never had diff issues before this)

Thanks in advance.

Pulled apart and compressed the spring some more. Still the same thing. Couldn't get the tnut piece out and broke the stupid thing. And still stuck in the outdrive. Hope tomorrow I can get it out without ruining the outdrives. About to give up on this car already.

WagwanBumba

iTrader: (1)

This is really interesting. Well at the track I'm at, I've got my MM Firebolt pretty hooked up. Could do with some more steering. But its the RM guys that are dominating the races so really want to try the TLR22/RB6 in RM configuration. The B5 I have is RM.

As for the B5Ms you say that were still on the ball when the track went, do you know what setups they were using?

gelshocker

iTrader: (1)

I had the same issue back in RB5 days. The idea is to hold and 'lock down' the nut with an allen key, with the key itself held across the outdrive (slip it into the outdrive grooves). With your remaining 3 fingers grasp the entire diff.

With a _long_ flat head screwdriver, screw the diff screw into the nut. I bought a long flat head screwdriver for this one purpose only. Try to keep the screw straight.

The plastic nut piece can only be removed without breaking the ears off by inserting an allen key through the opposite side of the outdrive and pushing it (slowly) out. Get the Exotek diff nut.

Hope this works out for you. Never had a problem since. Cheers,

gelshocker

iTrader: (1)

Plenty of folks run the 22 at Lali you can get setups from them. Cheers,

WagwanBumba

iTrader: (1)

Hey gelshocker. Are you at Lali sometimes? Don't want to pick a car and swipe a setup from someone. I'm trying to learn how to setup a car to my own liking so it doesn't matter too much if guys there are running them or not. The downer for the TLR22 is that service from Jet Hobbies is real bad!

gelshocker

iTrader: (1)

Not as much as I would like. I was meant to say hello (your car is the red/black fade one right?) but I caught myself in a really shitty mood. The track at Lali is 1/8 scale one needs more traction than steering. Service everywhere in HK is like that, take it as the local culture! Cheers,