mourinho

iTrader: (46)

what esc are you using? Mid or Rear?

i ask because i have my shorty positioned per the manual in mid motor and there is no way an rs gen 2 will fit between the rear battery holder and the motor, in fact it wont even fit in front of the battery either as i am using a full size servo not a low profile one.

KalEl63

iTrader: (13)

I wasn't a fan of the 5 hole so I went to the GHEA 4x1.3 and the car was far better for our club track here in Adelaide.
So I know they work I now will just see what the 2x1.6 are like

That's in my RM car with my RS Gen2, but yes MM that wouldn't fit.

Teufel Racing

iTrader: (30)

It should be able to fit, I got an Orion R10 between the motor and batt, with the batt as far back as I could get it, and with a full size servo up front.

KalEl63

iTrader: (13)

Oh yeah like that would fit sorry I run my MM with saddles ATM anyway.

Teufel Racing

iTrader: (30)

No worries,
Took me a few tries to figure it out, then a few layout changes, and some late nights/early mornings. LOL.

Zylux

I've seen that setup quite a lot and always wondered by people don't run the battery the opposite way around to shorten the power wires to the ESC?

Teufel Racing

iTrader: (30)

That pic wasn't no too long after I had made the ESC move to the rear and wasn't sure if it was going to stay there. I have since shortened the +/- batt leads and turned the batt around for a shorter more direct wiring..

Zylux

Ok cool. Did you put the esc behind the battery to move the CoG further forward? When I was building mine I assumed that I would want the bias further back, given that nearly everyone at my track runs rear motor, so I placed my shorty all the way against the motor. The funny thing was, when I put a brass weight (21g) on the rear bumper to meet minimum weight and also get more weight on the rear I found that the car was much more difficult to control and had a lot less rear grip than without the weight. Now I'm questioning my quest for more rear weight bias. Maybe 62% on the rear is plenty or even too much?

Teufel Racing

iTrader: (30)

No not ness. for CoG purposes. My r10 is a little on the heavy side from the Tekin's most guys I know use. With the R10 up front, I had a lot of steering, but not as much rear grip as I would have liked. I first added 14g behind the batt to rebalance the car a little. Was ok, but wanted to clean up the wiring more and decided to move the ESC to the rear to try that and see how it worked. Plus have a cleaner wiring as a side bonus. I think it moved a little more weight to the rear. Can't say for sure how much, but I don't think it's enough for me to worry about. I did loose just a little front bite by moving the ESC to the rear, but it still feels pretty good. I added the new rear bulkhead and brass weights to play around with as an easy way to adjust rear weight for when the track is a little looser. Not sure if that is ideal, but so far I have 10g on the rear bulkhead and it still seems ok. I know most of the guys I usually race with, have gone to the square packs or saddle packs for the added weight. They seem to really like it, but I'll just probably stay with the shorty and add weight if/when needed.

I've been running a little of both mod and stock, so I'm playing around with stuff a little more than the guys I race with do, as they usually only run mod. We'll see how it goes. I'm sure I'll probably change things around more, but for now I'm happy with the car and rear weight. I also run 2/2.5 rear toe when most others I know run 3/3.5. As with just about everything in RC, it's a trade off somewhere. The only question is where do you want to make that trade off.

Zylux

Thanks. I found that to get the weight back I needed to run the Tekin ESC forward; this allowed me to get everything back further because I could run the battery below the waterfall brace and the battery weighed more per mm than the ESC anyway so it made sense to put the ESC forward.

jwcobra03

iTrader: (69)

Looking for some setup help for an indoor low grip, hard packed, and dusty track. Current setup is rear motor with the Japan setup. Running a shorty pack all the way back with the esc behind the batt. With the only changes being hubs all the way forward and no shim under the rear bumper. Still kind of confused with lack of info on the anti squat settings lol. Stock 5 hole pistons, pink front spring with 37.5 and white rear with 32.5. Lacking some forward grip. No side guard screws and front bracing removed from the rear bulkhead. Really have to baby the car out of the corners to keep it from stepping out on me.

Zylux

Assuming you have already played with tyres? I found that on a dusty track AKA Impacts (SS) work well on the rear for me, compared with Rebars and Deja-Vu rears which have zero grip in comparison.

jwcobra03

iTrader: (69)

I tried different tires 2.0 holeshots and impacts seem to work best in SS. Those are the ones I tend to run. Gigabytes were ok. Just need that little bit more forward bite and I'll be happy. Sauce also helps. Hope to get some little setup tweaks that'll benefit the buggy.

Speedychris22

iTrader: (68)

I'm waiting for Jason to fill out a sheet but u might want to watch his vid about the rb6 review. It showed how he was able to get more flex in the chassis.
So far I know he's running 1mm shims under all ball studs. Middle hole in front block. I'm assuming 25 deg caster, shocks he's running 4x1.3 32 f 30 rear
I'm wondering about limiters in shocks as we'll shock end length and the length of the shocks? Jason help us out. The rear I'm wondering which shims he's using for anti squat

jwcobra03

iTrader: (69)

I've seen his review and i did the mod to the bulkhead brace. We run on totally different track conditions though. So his setup might not be ideal for the track i run on. It has some sand in it, so traction will be relatively low for quite sometime.