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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-10-2014, 07:39 AM
  #10081  
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Originally Posted by mog ruith
Read somewhere in this thread that the 6 can use AE spurs, is it true guys? I just want to confirm before i go get one. And I'm looking for more torque, what spur and pinion size do i go for?
What motor?

What's your current gearing?
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:52 AM
  #10082  
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Everywhere seems to be out of stock on rb6 kits. Anyone know when more will be available?
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Old 03-10-2014, 10:52 AM
  #10083  
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Hey guys I also need shock fluid suggestions don't know what's in it now as I just bought it used I do know it has 4 hole pistons
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Old 03-10-2014, 11:18 AM
  #10084  
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Originally Posted by VenturaDC
What motor?

What's your current gearing?
Ahhh great question there. I'm currently using a hobbyking 3300kv motor and I'm not sure of the stock rtr gearing... Mine is a ready set.
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Old 03-10-2014, 12:24 PM
  #10085  
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Anybody selling a new Light Weight Chassis KYOUMW720, shoot me a PM, thanks.
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Old 03-10-2014, 01:19 PM
  #10086  
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Originally Posted by Graham11
So you bought an rb6 instead of the b5? I love my c4.2 but I don't wanna be stuck with no parts support so it's either rb6 or b5 and b5m basically same price.
Yep I did. And couldn't be happier. I don't think you will need both. Mid motor works well at my local tracks both indoor medium-high bite. My track doesn't sell parts but my LHS up the road does. And honestly haven't needed any. Upgrade the steering rack to aluminum and good to go. I haven't broke anything on mine yet.
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Old 03-10-2014, 01:29 PM
  #10087  
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Originally Posted by mog ruith
Read somewhere in this thread that the 6 can use AE spurs, is it true guys? I just want to confirm before i go get one. And I'm looking for more torque, what spur and pinion size do i go for?
Yes, AE spur's work fine. What motor are you running? What are you geared now?
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Old 03-10-2014, 01:47 PM
  #10088  
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So I ran my rb6 for the 3rd race and am getting beat bad by mm cars. I'm going to try mm. I have the stock chassis and some alum upgrades. Is there anything needed as far as upgrades for mm? Is the cf rear tower help/nessasary? And is the weight kit needed? Was looking at the tresery 2 peice mm rear bulkhead does it accept the weight kit? Does the original kit mm bulkhead accept the weight kit? I'm running 17.5 indoor small tight med grip track
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Old 03-10-2014, 03:21 PM
  #10089  
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Originally Posted by socal23
So I ran my rb6 for the 3rd race and am getting beat bad by mm cars. I'm going to try mm. I have the stock chassis and some alum upgrades. Is there anything needed as far as upgrades for mm? Is the cf rear tower help/nessasary? And is the weight kit needed? Was looking at the tresery 2 peice mm rear bulkhead does it accept the weight kit? Does the original kit mm bulkhead accept the weight kit? I'm running 17.5 indoor small tight med grip track
leave it RM until Randy gets the mister system. you guys usually go a race or so before us but the moisture goes away quick and then its a handful. Friday we had a light mist 2 races before us and the track was already too dry for MM. When the track is good my RB6 hooks up better than the 22's or B5m. I have a 15g weight on the rear bulkhead and that's all the weight that you should need, once we get a good water schedule ill probably pull that off.

oh and if the person sent you all the parts then you don't need anything to make it MM.
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Old 03-10-2014, 03:23 PM
  #10090  
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Originally Posted by socal23
So I ran my rb6 for the 3rd race and am getting beat bad by mm cars. I'm going to try mm. I have the stock chassis and some alum upgrades. Is there anything needed as far as upgrades for mm? Is the cf rear tower help/nessasary? And is the weight kit needed? Was looking at the tresery 2 peice mm rear bulkhead does it accept the weight kit? Does the original kit mm bulkhead accept the weight kit? I'm running 17.5 indoor small tight med grip track
If you don't have them I would recommend rear hangers UMW705 and UMW707, they will allow your to run the narrow rear track. The cf rear tower is not needed. Weight kit will depend on the track conditions ( I installed it on my car but took it off because it was pushing, hi bite track). The exotek and tresery rear bulkheads will NOT work with the weight kit. The stock rear bulkhead was a running change only the latest version has the holes for mounting the weight kit it also has the mounts for the rear swaybar.
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Old 03-10-2014, 03:51 PM
  #10091  
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Well if I don't need any parts then even better lol. I have the new alum rf hanger I'll get the alum rr hanger. What pills are you running for narrow? For rm I ran the c pill with holes facing away from chassis. I thought about weight kit but the way I see it what's the point of running weight on rear might as well run rm. But for 17.5 I figured I might need the weight kit or run a shorty up against the motor sideways to get some Wright more to the back rather then buy the weight kit
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Old 03-10-2014, 04:37 PM
  #10092  
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What inserts are you guys running in the newer alum suspension hangers in rear motor? I'm running D in,front and rear on my mid motor.. Should I run the same in rear motor?
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Old 03-10-2014, 06:13 PM
  #10093  
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For MM I am running D in on both. I am running the battery stop and esc shelf from the rt6 so I have the battery all the way back and the esc above the battery. I tried the shorty sideways I didn't like it, but it might work better for you. I also am running the light weight chassis with all the screws in, if you are a little loose you could remove some or all side rail screws and motor brace screws.

RM, RF B out RR C out for 3.5 deg toe.
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Old 03-10-2014, 06:23 PM
  #10094  
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Originally Posted by 1967rs
For MM I am running D in on both. I am running the battery stop and esc shelf from the rt6 so I have the battery all the way back and the esc above the battery. I tried the shorty sideways I didn't like it, but it might work better for you. I also am running the light weight chassis with all the screws in, if you are a little loose you could remove some or all side rail screws and motor brace screws.

RM, RF B out RR C out for 3.5 deg toe.

Whats the difference from running D-in on both Rf Rr and say C-in on both Rf and Rr? They both give 3 degrees but whats the difference in them?
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Old 03-10-2014, 06:25 PM
  #10095  
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Originally Posted by Wattsup23
Whats the difference from running D-in on both Rf Rr and say C-in on both Rf and Rr? They both give 3 degrees but whats the difference in them?
Width
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