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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-14-2014, 08:23 AM   #9826
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I had the problem of my nylon nut on my c4.2 back off so I've just been locking down all my slippers on my stock 2wd's. Am I loosing on power traction from this?
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Old 02-14-2014, 08:33 AM   #9827
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I don't lock the slipper in my stock buggy. It takes two seconds trackside to tune the slipper. Play with it, run a couple laps and adjust.
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Old 02-14-2014, 08:51 AM   #9828
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I just do the thing where I hold my rear wheels down and roll onto full throttle to ensure I can do wheelies on the bench and my diff doesn't bark. That's what most of the pros do--just gauge how aggressive / long it takes for the front to come up when doing that and that's your adjustment range.

You can't even get the car to do that without something south of a 10.5 though. In stock, I always just cranked the slipper down locked, then backed it off so it would at least start to slip on the bench, and that was it.
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Old 02-14-2014, 09:57 AM   #9829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
I just do the thing where I hold my rear wheels down and roll onto full throttle to ensure I can do wheelies on the bench and my diff doesn't bark. That's what most of the pros do--just gauge how aggressive / long it takes for the front to come up when doing that and that's your adjustment range.

You can't even get the car to do that without something south of a 10.5 though. In stock, I always just cranked the slipper down locked, then backed it off so it would at least start to slip on the bench, and that was it.
Raz, can you explain what mod you did to the motor guard? Thanks

Last edited by CanyonCarverR1; 02-14-2014 at 10:53 AM.
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Old 02-14-2014, 10:21 AM   #9830
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Tax, can you explain what mod you did to the motor guard? Thanks
Direct copy from Jared's car:



I must stress that our track is NOT high traction. Jared ran this setup and told me he liked it at cactus, but on higher bite tracks, such as when he went to chico, the car felt too heavy and he went to a shorty with the ESC behind the battery. He said that out of all the layouts, he liked the shorty with the ESC behind it the best.
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Old 02-14-2014, 10:24 AM   #9831
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I think he meant that he ground the nubs for the speedo shelf off of the mm motor guard, the purpose is to move the battery back more.

And for what its worth while adjusting the slipper I can wheelie with a 17.5 when the pack is fully charged.

Edit- beat me to it while typing, lol
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:04 AM   #9832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
Direct copy from Jared's car:



I must stress that our track is NOT high traction. Jared ran this setup and told me he liked it at cactus, but on higher bite tracks, such as when he went to chico, the car felt too heavy and he went to a shorty with the ESC behind the battery. He said that out of all the layouts, he liked the shorty with the ESC behind it the best.
Saddle packs? Plastic hubs?
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Old 02-14-2014, 05:30 PM   #9833
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Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
I knew someone was going to say this the center diff in 4wd (mostly 8th scale OR indeed) does mostly one thing, it "wastes" power to the front wheels on-power, and it "soaks" the ruts by allowing the all 4 wheels to rotate at completely different speeds (with only 2 diffs L rpm + R rpm = cst).

Net - although not completely similar, 8th scale center diff fills in a lot of similar duties to those of the 10th slipper... so your comparison is a very good one, although we're comparing 2wd with 4wd. 4wd stock without slipper, yes, I can imagine it. 2wd, no way

Paul

PS: the D413 is (will be) a 3 diff car too. No slipper. but 4wd
Yep your right on the power dump on fronts wheels. Always my front tires are way more worn than rears on the ebuggy (wear goes down with 10K plus oil in center but cars too twitchy). I however find the ball diffs last the same time with/without slipper for 2wd stock buggy so will run slipperless for now at least .
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Old 02-14-2014, 06:21 PM   #9834
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Hey guys, first time I glued up some AKA Hexlites.

Same tire, insert cut down the same width, and the tire comes out smaller both overall wheel diameter and wheel track width. And this it before attaching to the front axle (which turns out even narrower track).

Is this expected? Thanks,
Anyone please? Thanks,
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Old 02-14-2014, 08:40 PM   #9835
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Quick question, is it roar legal to run a shorty pack sideways infront of the motor on a mid motor set up? It's not like I run any roar races but the JBRL is supposed to be following roar a little more closely this year so I want to make sure I'm following the rules.
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Old 02-14-2014, 09:23 PM   #9836
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Originally Posted by CaseyD View Post
Quick question, is it roar legal to run a shorty pack sideways infront of the motor on a mid motor set up? It's not like I run any roar races but the JBRL is supposed to be following roar a little more closely this year so I want to make sure I'm following the rules.
Right now the rules state the you must have the car set up so you can remove a shorty pack and place a saddle or full pack in its place with no other changes besides foam spacers. BUT I see that rule changing with the new HB 4w and team c buggies coming out that are shorty pack specific.
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Old 02-14-2014, 09:39 PM   #9837
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Not argueing just trying to get a good understanding, but even the RB6 you have to move the battery holders around to switch between a shorty and sattle packs correct?
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Old 02-14-2014, 09:48 PM   #9838
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Not argueing just trying to get a good understanding, but even the RB6 you have to move the battery holders around to switch between a shorty and sattle packs correct?
Not mine but some yes. It's a old rule that I am sure will be changed soon.
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Old 02-14-2014, 09:51 PM   #9839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
Anyone please? Thanks,
I am having a hard time trying to visualize what you are saying. Any chance you can take a picture?

Quote:
Originally Posted by CaseyD View Post
Quick question, is it roar legal to run a shorty pack sideways infront of the motor on a mid motor set up? It's not like I run any roar races but the JBRL is supposed to be following roar a little more closely this year so I want to make sure I'm following the rules.
From what I understand the chassis needs to be able to accept a saddle pack. Hopefully, we will get clarification on the rule but I just don't know when. Maybe if IFMAR changed their rule first ROAR would follow suit.
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Old 02-14-2014, 09:57 PM   #9840
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Well it says all the chassis has to do is "accept" either of the two not where they can be right.
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