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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-13-2014, 10:53 PM   #9811
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chevmaro View Post
Razathorn! Didnt know you were driving the Kyosho. I did use one of your setups from your B4.2 on my B4.2. It worked great at my track. Only made some minor adjustments. Would love to see what you are doing with the RB6.
I've got to write down my latest setup changes. I've been pretty steadily running mid motor this season, but lately added some more front droop to compete with the rear motors in a few sections when the track gets slippery.

Quote:
My track goes from Medium grip but dusty to very high grip. We go from full treaded clay compound tires to dremeled slicks. Indoor clay. Track is a little bumpy.

First thing I need to decide is where to put the esc and which battery to run with mid motor. I just bought two new saddle packs and kind of want to use those but I also have two perfectly good shorty's.
Here are my thoughts. If you never experience low grip, then go mid motor without question. If you are on high grip most of the time, use the shorty with the esc between it and the motor. You can always run a little more front droop to get on power traction, or a lower rear RC to get more off power traction in corners and low speed traction. You can also run weight in the rear such as on the bulkhead, or switch back to the gull wing arms.

Wayne
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Old 02-13-2014, 11:06 PM   #9812
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With respect to slippers, people run an 8 pound ebuggy which puts around 2-3 horsepower without a slipper clutch. Granted its a gear diff but everything else is heavier and grip is way more than a 2wd.

Stock classes should not need a slipper I think, the twitch and feel etc can be controlled with fingers/esc or radio curves. Would want the maximum amount of power to go on the track and not lost to slippage and heat. Plus most pros run mod motors which need slippers since power is almost too much to put 100% of it on the track surface and they are way harder on their cars than us mortals.

My diffs don't slip and last as long (without slipper) as when I used to run with the slipper in my stock car. Could be cos I run the plastic pucks from MIP which might be a cushion for the diff.
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Old 02-13-2014, 11:45 PM   #9813
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so im installing a ko rsx one10 low pro servo in my new rb6 and when i turn to the right the ball cup on the servo arm is hitting the rack before full throw. i have tried switching the arm to one notch right but that throws the centering all off. i also checked to make sure i have 1 mm gap inbetween the two steering rack ballstuds. any one run into this small problem or am i just trying to get to much steering am i corect in asuming the knuckles shuld touch the casterblcks on full steering?

also can any one steer my in the right direction for a good setup for a medtraction small tight track lots of 90 corners any help would be apreciated thanks
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Old 02-14-2014, 12:20 AM   #9814
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wisconsinbasher View Post
so im installing a ko rsx one10 low pro servo in my new rb6 and when i turn to the right the ball cup on the servo arm is hitting the rack before full throw. i have tried switching the arm to one notch right but that throws the centering all off. i also checked to make sure i have 1 mm gap inbetween the two steering rack ballstuds. any one run into this small problem or am i just trying to get to much steering am i corect in asuming the knuckles shuld touch the casterblcks on full steering?

also can any one steer my in the right direction for a good setup for a medtraction small tight track lots of 90 corners any help would be apreciated thanks
i use that servo, and i believe with the stock kyosho plastic horn and the the losi 22 alloy horn, i used the 2 spacers (thick one and thin one) on the servo mounting blocks and it all fit pretty easy. what horn are you using and are you using any of the spacers?

when everything (like wheels and servo horn) is dead-center, does the connecting rod between servo horn and steering arm sit an angle or is it running parallel to steering rack? try to get that connecting rod as close to a 90 degree angle from servo horn when you are centered using spacers between your servo horn and ballstud. it was my impression that by keeping rod connected at a clean angle when centered, it had a cleaner path of movement and less of a chance of hitting anything in motion. i could be wrong in theory, but when i spaced it clean like that it all workd out for me and i ended up using ko propo's carbon fiber servo horn set and that required custom fitment and spacing using different, smaller ballstud and cup on the servo horn just to get proper clearance. also, i wasnt afraid to deviate from having more then 1mm gap between the connecting ballcups if it wasnt lining up properly. worst-case scenario, if all else fails, dremel the clearance you need and make sure ballcups also arent hitting the ribs of the chassis front plate that sits over it.

hope that helps some
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Old 02-14-2014, 02:48 AM   #9815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wisconsinbasher View Post
so im installing a ko rsx one10 low pro servo in my new rb6 and when i turn to the right the ball cup on the servo arm is hitting the rack before full throw. i have tried switching the arm to one notch right but that throws the centering all off. i also checked to make sure i have 1 mm gap inbetween the two steering rack ballstuds. any one run into this small problem or am i just trying to get to much steering am i corect in asuming the knuckles shuld touch the casterblcks on full steering?

also can any one steer my in the right direction for a good setup for a medtraction small tight track lots of 90 corners any help would be apreciated thanks
You need to snip a piece off the ballcup as described in the manual. Cheers,
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Old 02-14-2014, 03:02 AM   #9816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wisconsinbasher View Post
so im installing a ko rsx one10 low pro servo in my new rb6 and when i turn to the right the ball cup on the servo arm is hitting the rack before full throw. i have tried switching the arm to one notch right but that throws the centering all off. i also checked to make sure i have 1 mm gap inbetween the two steering rack ballstuds. any one run into this small problem or am i just trying to get to much steering am i corect in asuming the knuckles shuld touch the casterblcks on full steering?

also can any one steer my in the right direction for a good setup for a medtraction small tight track lots of 90 corners any help would be apreciated thanks
This happened to me while building my rt6. I had the rack upside down. Check that. Hope this helps
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Old 02-14-2014, 04:41 AM   #9817
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Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
I run indoor low traction and felt the gull wings made the car lethargic and less responsive overall. But I guess you need to factor in driving style.

Full size lipo is too heavy whichever way you go IMHO

Cheers,
Have to agree on the Lipo. So basically flat arms gives more traction? I also read in this thread that narrow rear gives more traction whilst wider rear gives more steering. Correct meif iI'm wrong. And can someone educate me on what is the effects of different mounting position on the shock towers and arms.
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Old 02-14-2014, 06:11 AM   #9818
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Originally Posted by mog ruith View Post
Have to agree on the Lipo. So basically flat arms gives more traction? I also read in this thread that narrow rear gives more traction whilst wider rear gives more steering. Correct meif iI'm wrong. And can someone educate me on what is the effects of different mounting position on the shock towers and arms.
Gulwings are more traction
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Old 02-14-2014, 06:59 AM   #9819
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What is the difference in feel on a 4 hole 1.3 and 3 hole 1.4 piston
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Old 02-14-2014, 07:00 AM   #9820
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Hey guys, first time I glued up some AKA Hexlites.

Same tire, insert cut down the same width, and the tire comes out smaller both overall wheel diameter and wheel track width. And this it before attaching to the front axle (which turns out even narrower track).

Is this expected? Thanks,
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Old 02-14-2014, 07:15 AM   #9821
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Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
You need to snip a piece off the ballcup as described in the manual. Cheers,
This seems the most logical answer . Didn't see that any where in the manual it must have been in the Japanese part. Going from a 22 2.0 to this must saw I'm kind of lost with this manual
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Old 02-14-2014, 07:26 AM   #9822
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Originally Posted by glenng View Post
i use that servo, and i believe with the stock kyosho plastic horn and the the losi 22 alloy horn, i used the 2 spacers (thick one and thin one) on the servo mounting blocks and it all fit pretty easy. what horn are you using and are you using any of the spacers?

when everything (like wheels and servo horn) is dead-center, does the connecting rod between servo horn and steering arm sit an angle or is it running parallel to steering rack? try to get that connecting rod as close to a 90 degree angle from servo horn when you are centered using spacers between your servo horn and ballstud. it was my impression that by keeping rod connected at a clean angle when centered, it had a cleaner path of movement and less of a chance of hitting anything in motion. i could be wrong in theory, but when i spaced it clean like that it all workd out for me and i ended up using ko propo's carbon fiber servo horn set and that required custom fitment and spacing using different, smaller ballstud and cup on the servo horn just to get proper clearance. also, i wasnt afraid to deviate from having more then 1mm gap between the connecting ballcups if it wasnt lining up properly. worst-case scenario, if all else fails, dremel the clearance you need and make sure ballcups also arent hitting the ribs of the chassis front plate that sits over it.

hope that helps some
I am using the stock horn and the same two spacers you described the connecting linkage is sitting at 90 deg
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Old 02-14-2014, 07:31 AM   #9823
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Originally Posted by mog ruith View Post
After reading the input above, I want to ask why not a full size stick Lipo in mm configuration with the flat arms instead of the gull arms. I'm wanting to try out a mm configuration and am stuck with standard size Lipo and the stock gull arms.
I've done it before in medium grip, indoor, on a very tricky track, very tight layout... the car was stellar, frankly. Very, very easy to drive (the weight, I guess)
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Old 02-14-2014, 07:36 AM   #9824
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
With respect to slippers, people run an 8 pound ebuggy which puts around 2-3 horsepower without a slipper clutch. Granted its a gear diff but everything else is heavier and grip is way more than a 2wd.
I knew someone was going to say this the center diff in 4wd (mostly 8th scale OR indeed) does mostly one thing, it "wastes" power to the front wheels on-power, and it "soaks" the ruts by allowing the all 4 wheels to rotate at completely different speeds (with only 2 diffs L rpm + R rpm = cst).

Net - although not completely similar, 8th scale center diff fills in a lot of similar duties to those of the 10th slipper... so your comparison is a very good one, although we're comparing 2wd with 4wd. 4wd stock without slipper, yes, I can imagine it. 2wd, no way

Paul

PS: the D413 is (will be) a 3 diff car too. No slipper. but 4wd
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Old 02-14-2014, 08:02 AM   #9825
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Originally Posted by wisconsinbasher View Post
This seems the most logical answer . Didn't see that any where in the manual it must have been in the Japanese part. Going from a 22 2.0 to this must saw I'm kind of lost with this manual
Step 5:

http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...IMA_RB6_IM.pdf
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