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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-09-2014, 11:13 PM   #9751
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VenturaDC View Post
Personally I think it depends more on track type, layout and driving style more then anything else. See how the fast guys at your track are running it. If you have a heavy trigger finger and enter the corners very aggressively then Rm will be more forgiving, if your a smooth fluid driver then I think MM will be advantageous to use.
All my tracks around me are clay with exception of hot rod hobbies, as for aggressive i tend to like my power a little snappy but try and maintain a good corner speed as not to come in to hot and blow the line and flow through but I do tend to accelerate hard coming out
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Old 02-09-2014, 11:24 PM   #9752
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On another note which servo horn for a spektrum
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Old 02-09-2014, 11:38 PM   #9753
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[QUOTE=MikeXray;12987478]
Quote:
Originally Posted by glenng View Post

I tightened it good, I did leave the brass shim in, as the elim doesn't fit to replace it.
Thanks Mike, i'll have to try it out again.
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Old 02-10-2014, 01:54 AM   #9754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxer59 View Post
All my tracks around me are clay with exception of hot rod hobbies, as for aggressive i tend to like my power a little snappy but try and maintain a good corner speed as not to come in to hot and blow the line and flow through but I do tend to accelerate hard coming out
I'm still working on getting my mm dialed at scvrc, works amazing at Camarillo with the latest layout being open and fast, plus traction is outstanding when they sweep and run it dry. I've heard mixed feelings for hotrods, I guess some guys have mm working there and others can't get it to work. If your mostly running high traction id run mm, it takes a bit more time to set up but once you get it dialed in you can pull hard out of the turns while still carrying more corner speed.

Question back at ya, m4 holeshots still the hot ticket at hotrods? Been quite a few years since I've ran there.
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:53 AM   #9755
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Been searching for the lightweight chassis any news on where to get one in the states?
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Old 02-10-2014, 08:56 AM   #9756
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Been searching for the lightweight chassis any news on where to get one in the states?
I got mine from Amain
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Old 02-10-2014, 09:48 AM   #9757
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Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1 View Post
I got mine from Amain
Ummm yea....out of stock for a while now.
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Old 02-10-2014, 11:19 AM   #9758
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This weekend I tried the inner hole on front shock Tower, I really liked the feeling of the car, adjusted the shock length by +0,5mm. A buddy of mine tried it out on his car and his daughers to and loved it.

Maybe no laptime increase but more consistent feel of the car, calmer and safer. And thats good news for the average no A-final driver like we are.

we drove on high grip carpet Indoors.
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Old 02-10-2014, 11:42 AM   #9759
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I am looking for a little help. I am pretty much running the Dibrino setup, but I have shimmed the tranny and running more pro sqaut. My car is pretty good, but I feel I need more steering to get to the top of the pack. My car pushes off power and some what on. If I go 2 or 4 degrees more caster, will that help. Will shorter rear link help. I am a pretty smooth driver, so I gennerally stuggle with a twitchy car. Thanks for the help.

Here is the setup:http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...tland20131109/
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Old 02-10-2014, 12:13 PM   #9760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cfconcrete View Post
I am looking for a little help. I am pretty much running the Dibrino setup, but I have shimmed the tranny and running more pro sqaut. My car is pretty good, but I feel I need more steering to get to the top of the pack. My car pushes off power and some what on. If I go 2 or 4 degrees more caster, will that help. Will shorter rear link help. I am a pretty smooth driver, so I gennerally stuggle with a twitchy car. Thanks for the help.

Here is the setup:http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...tland20131109/
So you have the rear hingepin mount higher than the front? to get the feel you are looking for I would do the opposite and run pins flat, or antisquat.
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Old 02-10-2014, 12:46 PM   #9761
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
So you have the rear hingepin mount higher than the front? to get the feel you are looking for I would do the opposite and run pins flat, or antisquat.
I will try that. I think I have the rear so locked in I can't get the steering I want. When I first started driving 2wd buggy I was struggling with rear looping out. A local guy suggested the pro squat to me and my finishes and been better. The tracks I run at now our pretty high grip.
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Old 02-10-2014, 12:59 PM   #9762
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Finally found a lightweight chassis thanks to the guys at Cruizinrc....thanks!
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Old 02-10-2014, 01:53 PM   #9763
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Another question. I am using UMW705 and UMW706. Is B out and B out the same width and toe as the kit? What does c out and c out do? Thanks.
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Old 02-10-2014, 02:33 PM   #9764
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I think C out and C out is the same width and toe as the kit (wide hangers) C in and C in (narrow hangers)
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Old 02-10-2014, 03:20 PM   #9765
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My local track just moved to a new location and the new track has a ton of grip. So I was thinking of switching over to mid motor. I know this has been discussed before, but whats a good starting point for a mid motor setup on a smaller/med indoor clay track. I checked the front page but all I got was rear motor setup. Any help would be great. I attached a link to the track on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02FGtuAMD6g
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