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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-01-2012, 02:25 PM
  #901  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Are you referring to the suspension hangers? If so, do you know if the ones from the RB5 are a direct swap onto the RB6?
yes they are ill take a pic and post it
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:28 PM
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Perhaps someone can enlighten me on the differences is the hangers...
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Posvar View Post
If they are a direct drop on....which ones are they? The Amain web site has several choices under the rb6 parts pages....rr, rf, wide etc. I only want to buy one set of rear inner and outer if possible as well as a front set.
when i built mine the parts tree for the front bulkhead use the same 25 30 mount i run mine with the 30 with the four degrees caster inserts
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Posvar View Post
Perhaps someone can enlighten me on the differences is the hangers...
your hinge pins go through your arms and into the so called hangers ie arm mounts
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Posvar View Post
Perhaps someone can enlighten me on the differences is the hangers...
rf is rear front, rr is rear rear, rf2 is the wide block i believe, with my rb5 with extended chassis most ran the wide blocks to widen the rear, id recomend em for the rb6 also
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Posvar View Post
If they are a direct drop on....which ones are they? The Amain web site has several choices under the rb6 parts pages....rr, rf, wide etc. I only want to buy one set of rear inner and outer if possible as well as a front set.
Originally Posted by Posvar View Post
Perhaps someone can enlighten me on the differences is the hangers...
Easy... RF is Rear-Front and RR is Rear-Rear. Both are in the rear of the car, but one is for the Front of the arm, and one is for the rear of the arm.

The wide hangers are just that, they are a mm or 2mm wider than the original (I forget exactly how much wider). That does 2 things... 1, it makes the rear of the car a tad wider (obviously), which makes it ever so slightly more stable over bumps... and 2, it raises the roll center on the rear of the car (more roll resistance), which helps the car rotate slightly easier. (more steering).

I always ran the wide hangers in the RB5 because the car needed a bit of help rotating. Don't know which will be preferred on the 6. I hear the 6 rotates just a bit better than the 5 out of the box, and if so, the narrow hangers might be a better option keeping car planted. Ill certainly be testing both when I start getting track time with the car.
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by fastestwon View Post
yes they are ill take a pic and post it
saweeet!
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Old 10-01-2012, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by t8rtot View Post
sir, you don't even have the car and are already giving advice? i love it. i can't wait until you get your car up and going. i doubt there i will be any running in my area so help here is fantastic.

p.s. there is no sarcasm in this post, i really do appreciate it.
You're welcome... the concept/theory is constant from car to car, and I have experience with this exact issue when I was running the Durango DEX210.

With the 210, you also had a car that was capable of being run in MM or RM. but the chassis was primarly designed as a MM car, with RM being an option. The springs that came on the car were designed to have a balanced car in MM configuration, where you have a lot more weight on the front axles, and a lot less on the rear axles. When you built the car in RM configuration, which of course moves a lot of the static weight rearward, the kit springs gave you a really imbalanced car. The rear springs were far too soft, and the front springs far too heavy. You ended up with a car that turned about as well as a stretched limo.

In order to get a balanced car, you needed to run heavier rears, and softer fronts. When I do spring balance testing, I figure out what springs are required front and rear to get the car balanced. That is done by looking at the frequency that the suspension operates at. I don't care what the numbers say, I just look to see if both ends of the car are at the same or near the same frequency. This is done with a fully built car, in ready-to-run trim, with no oil in the shocks. There is quite a bit to it actually, and id be happy to explain more if you want, just send me a PM

My point is, I BELIEVE, that the RB6 is the exact opposite of the 210, in that it's primarily a RM car, with MM being an option. If that is true, the springs that come in the kit will be for a RM balanced car. You CAN'T have one set of springs that will be ideal for both a RM config and MM config on the same car. The static weight is just too different. Will it "work"? Sure... you can always get around the track with a car that pushes a bit, or over-steers a bit... but the IDEAL pair of springs for the car will certainly be different between the two configs.
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Old 10-01-2012, 04:24 PM
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I remember the thread, I have it subscribed actually.

I did that with my 410.
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Old 10-01-2012, 05:52 PM
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Upon further review after day one it appears that I cracked the rear front hinge pin holder (UM508). I went ahead and ordered the nicely upgraded alum umw514. that should solve that.
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Old 10-01-2012, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Easy... RF is Rear-Front and RR is Rear-Rear. Both are in the rear of the car, but one is for the Front of the arm, and one is for the rear of the arm.

The wide hangers are just that, they are a mm or 2mm wider than the original (I forget exactly how much wider). That does 2 things... 1, it makes the rear of the car a tad wider (obviously), which makes it ever so slightly more stable over bumps... and 2, it raises the roll center on the rear of the car (more roll resistance), which helps the car rotate slightly easier. (more steering).

I always ran the wide hangers in the RB5 because the car needed a bit of help rotating. Don't know which will be preferred on the 6. I hear the 6 rotates just a bit better than the 5 out of the box, and if so, the narrow hangers might be a better option keeping car planted. Ill certainly be testing both when I start getting track time with the car.
You will want the wide alum hangers...
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Derry View Post
You will want the wide alum hangers...
Already got em, baby
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Old 10-01-2012, 11:11 PM
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Made my new steering link at work today No worries now ...unless I created the next weakest link I make 1 offs because I never know when I will have a mill open...and the boss says I have to do real work sometimes haha.
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-rb6-link-1-medium-.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-rb6-link-2-medium-.jpg  
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Old 10-02-2012, 04:54 AM
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pulled the RX trigger on this 3:55 am @ Stormer Hobbies, a LiL' more coin than expected to pay but the chassis sold me

is any one using the Peak Racing motors?

well now back to the finishing touches of a previous build.

Thanx again to all here for all the valuable insight and Info.
ems
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Old 10-02-2012, 05:03 AM
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Has anyone tried the set up sheet from Japan that was posted a few pages back? We run on outdoor clay with medium traction that is hard packed and somewhat bumpy. There is often a light layer on top but when blown off it is smooth and traction is good... I may give that set up a try.
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