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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-14-2013, 05:06 PM   #8956
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i had a problem today that cost me the A main. I came down from a jump and kinda overshot the landing so there was a little chassis slap. The positive battery wire slapped the damn mode button on my esc. I was like WTF. It happened twice. but the buggy ran awesome. TQ'd and led the majority of the race until that crap happened. but you live and you learn. I think I'm gonna ditch tekin in 1/10th scale and and go orion.
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Old 12-14-2013, 05:09 PM   #8957
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Originally Posted by VenturaDC View Post
Haven't had any issues yet, been a few months on the 6 and never really had any leakages for the last few years with my 5. Did you miss the oring that goes in the small screw cap for the shock seal orings?
Not where it's leaking from..it leaking from the O ring shock shaft area..it could be "operater error"..but I doubt it..over the last year I've built 3 full sets of Durango shocks..2 full sets of Losi 22 shocks..2 sets of Associated 12mm shocks and NONE of them have leaked..and none of the above cars were as expensive as the RB6. .so I'm a bit dissapointed to have to buy a shock rebuild kit for a brand new car..
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Old 12-14-2013, 05:28 PM   #8958
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I've built quite a few k shocks and I never had any leaks. That's pretty strange.
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Old 12-14-2013, 06:01 PM   #8959
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Originally Posted by nickdawg18 View Post
i had a problem today that cost me the A main. I came down from a jump and kinda overshot the landing so there was a little chassis slap. The positive battery wire slapped the damn mode button on my esc. I was like WTF. It happened twice. but the buggy ran awesome. TQ'd and led the majority of the race until that crap happened. but you live and you learn. I think I'm gonna ditch tekin in 1/10th scale and and go orion.
Tekin makes nice stuff.... Orion is really good too. I'm sure you won't regret making the switch. I don't even have a program box...once its set up, you just run the thing and it rocks.

Glad you got your RB6 working good .
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Old 12-14-2013, 06:08 PM   #8960
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Anyone having issues with their shocks leaking ? My front bottom seals leak..not just a little..I built them per kit instructions..green slime..I have never had so many problems with shocks..put new O rings in also and they still leak...
Sometimes the o-rings get pinched and it sounds like the shock shaft o-rings are fine since you replaced them and still have the issue. I'd replace the outer shock cartridge o ring. If it's not that....then last thing to do is check plastic internal spacers and replace those...perhaps a bad mold.

I believe it's this....without looking it up in a manual.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Seal-Set-4

Just to make sure........where is it leaking? Down the shaft or by the threads where it screws into the body?
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Old 12-14-2013, 06:09 PM   #8961
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Can I use the losi 22 topshaft for the rb6?

I'm using avid slippers on my 22 and I took it off and didn't fit the stock rb6 due to the shaft is fatter..

I just don't want to take my 22 apart and not knowing it will fit lol.. aka lazy
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Old 12-14-2013, 06:51 PM   #8962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oasis View Post
Not where it's leaking from..it leaking from the O ring shock shaft area..it could be "operater error"..but I doubt it..over the last year I've built 3 full sets of Durango shocks..2 full sets of Losi 22 shocks..2 sets of Associated 12mm shocks and NONE of them have leaked..and none of the above cars were as expensive as the RB6. .so I'm a bit dissapointed to have to buy a shock rebuild kit for a brand new car..
Isn't there an oring that goes inside the little cap the helps push the white piece against the orange orings? I missed it on one of mine when building, caught it before I filled them cause it was the one left over piece I had, I did notice it made the little cap fit much looser.
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Old 12-14-2013, 07:06 PM   #8963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sir_thomas View Post
Tekin makes nice stuff.... Orion is really good too. I'm sure you won't regret making the switch. I don't even have a program box...once its set up, you just run the thing and it rocks.

Glad you got your RB6 working good .
yea, I've had time to sit here and think about it. I like the way I have my electronics setup, so I'll give the tekin stuff another shot. I think those pistons I bought from sk is going to really help out with the chassis slap issue.
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Old 12-14-2013, 08:27 PM   #8964
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Do you guys use the shim for the kick plate for indoor clay track ?
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Old 12-14-2013, 08:35 PM   #8965
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No I do not use the shim ...
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Old 12-14-2013, 08:38 PM   #8966
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sir_thomas View Post
Sometimes the o-rings get pinched and it sounds like the shock shaft o-rings are fine since you replaced them and still have the issue. I'd replace the outer shock cartridge o ring. If it's not that....then last thing to do is check plastic internal spacers and replace those...perhaps a bad mold.

I believe it's this....without looking it up in a manual.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Seal-Set-4

Just to make sure........where is it leaking? Down the shaft or by the threads where it screws into the body?
It's leaking from the O ring area..the O rings are fine..it's the bushings that I think are the problem..one of the guys at my track had the same problem..
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Old 12-15-2013, 07:42 AM   #8967
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Is everyone running saddles? Or are shorties the way to go?
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Old 12-15-2013, 08:05 AM   #8968
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iMarky View Post
Do you guys use the shim for the kick plate for indoor clay track ?
Most people don't run the shim.

Check out the "spacer" field right next to the caster.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...UltimaRB6.html
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Old 12-15-2013, 10:18 AM   #8969
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickdawg18 View Post
Is everyone running saddles? Or are shorties the way to go?
Shorties are lighter and smaller which gives you more options with the weight distribution.
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Old 12-15-2013, 10:54 AM   #8970
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I run saddles all the way back with the motor brace shaved since our track can become quite slick. Whatever I miss in performance when it's high bite (watered well), I make up for when its slick. Depends on your track conditions.
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