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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-01-2012, 11:59 AM   #871
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Thanks for the replies guys! Guess i'll get mine this week, so i can test it on weekend.
Cheers
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Old 10-01-2012, 11:59 AM   #872
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Right, the stock plastic hubs are 0*.
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Old 10-01-2012, 11:59 AM   #873
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I have always ran 0* on my RB5 and the car is amazing.

MY primary concern is rear side bite and transitioning of the car through tight sections. I hope it is nothing like the 22 and has rear side bite and isn't lazy on its transitions.

Same here I have the 0* on my rb5 and it's is planted and feels great...and so far I have not found a problem getting the car (rb6) to transition and navigate through tight sections.

I saw that tebo ran the rb6 with the 0* before the super nats.
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:12 PM   #874
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How does this car drive compared to the 22? Any 22 drivers try one yet? I think im going to get one but I dont see myself getting rid of the 22. I think I just want two buggy's is that ok lol?
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:15 PM   #875
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Same here I have the 0* on my rb5 and it's is planted and feels great...and so far I have not found a problem getting the car (rb6) to transition and navigate through tight sections.

I saw that tebo ran the rb6 with the 0* before the super nats.
My 22 always felt lazy. My hope is the RB6 does not feel that way.

Yes, Tebo ran the stock hubs (0*) at the Hot Rod Shootout before the Nats.
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:23 PM   #876
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My 22 always felt lazy. My hope is the RB6 does not feel that way.

Yes, Tebo ran the stock hubs (0*) at the Hot Rod Shootout before the Nats.
That being said, are you going to try the 0* first or jump straight to the .5*?
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:29 PM   #877
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That being said, are you going to try the 0* first or jump straight to the .5*?
My plan when I get one is to build it straight out of the box and change only the shock oils to what I think might work locally(32.5F/27.5R).

I will also try whatever setup Tebo is running at the time as well. I will adjust off of which ever setup feels the best and get it right for me and my local tracks.
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:30 PM   #878
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Originally Posted by goin2drt View Post
Well first time out and car was awesome. Got lucky all the Kyosho guys were at the track so I got some help. Started with the Tebo WCRC set up. Car was dialed.

Issues. Didn't have the long ball studs and grub screws. Bad move. 2 laps stripped. Replaced that, put in long ball studs and good to go.

Also couldn't ge the slipper adjusted right. Needed to compress the spring more, scrub up the slippers with scotch brite and good to go.

Had a blast and was running faster than my old B4.1. Car is very durable. Plenty of short bus poundings and no issues.

Next time out just need to solve for a little more steering and I will be golden.

Enjoy and don't forget those long ball studs.
What size shock ends did you use by chance for the front and rear? When I looked at Tebo's setup, I could not achieve 27mm in between the bottom of the shock and the rod end on the rear. The rod end could not screw on far enough. Any help???

Thanks,

Brad
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:31 PM   #879
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Default RB6 race video

first race

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CyC1...ature=youtu.be
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:44 PM   #880
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Quote:
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Iv'e been waiting for this post for days............
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Cool looking fwd to your reviews
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X100!
Brandon is very comprehensive.
Thanks guys, I do my best to pass on anything I learn or figure out about the cars and/or gear I run. The RB6 will be no different.

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Ryan says it's life changing.
Building mine when I get home from work today. Longest day of work EVER!!!
I talked to Ryan last night, and the details about his first runs were enough to get me to pull the trigger. I'm excited
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:46 PM   #881
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Are the kit shock ends the "short" ones? Part number KYOW5015?

thanks
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:54 PM   #882
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Might help to point out which car is yours....
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:57 PM   #883
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What is the benefit of running the .5* rear hubs? Is there a specific purpose for this?
The .5 rear hubs take the car from 3 degrees of rear toe-in, to a total of 3.5. The more rear toe-in you run, the more resistance is applied to the car being able to rotate through a corner. It locks the rear end to the track because the right rear tire is trying to push the car to the left, while the left rear tire is trying to push the car to the right. In general, when you increase your rear toe-in, you get the following:

1. More rear traction everywhere (corner entrance, mid, and exit, and forward traction)
2. Less steering everywhere (corner entrance, mid, and exit, and forward traction)
3. Slightly less acceleration and top speed as you now have a larger slip angle with your rear tires
4. Slightly less corner speed

Use more rear toe-in (.5s) on looser tracks where the rear end might be too loose, or too unpredictable

Use less rear toe-in (0s) on higher traction tracks where the rear end feels too locked
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:58 PM   #884
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looks like you had a little on power push?
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Old 10-01-2012, 12:59 PM   #885
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It's the car in the front with the weird looking cab forward body.
Still getting used to the stock body.
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