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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-21-2013, 08:57 AM   #8731
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Originally Posted by ovalracer1m View Post
good to know from someone that has actually measured it. So on your MM setup, you are raising the rear block 2.5mm and also raising the rear bulkhead tower 1mm with the skid shim? So how much spacers are you using between the transcase and the chassis to equal out the height of the assembly?
Yes sir 2.5mm
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:04 AM   #8732
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Originally Posted by carbons2k View Post
How do you guys add some weight to the back of your midmotor rb6's?
Why? if you need it at our track, I need your setup because these cars have abundant rear grip, if you want it for looser conditions, try the pro squat setting they have been talking about, I think 2-2.5mm under the rear hanger.
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Old 11-21-2013, 10:11 AM   #8733
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Longer link = lower roll center (It will give you more traction overall but you will loose some steering)

Shorter link = Higher roll center (cars is more reactive and rotates better)

Roll center has big impact on how you want the buggy to react in certain section of the track. "You add some you loose some" when changing your roll center. Rule of thumb you want your front and rear roll center as close as possible to have a good balance car...
I would generally agree BUT on super high side-bite grip like carpet/fine pile astroturf the car rolls so quickly it almost always collapses and dumps all the weight on the outside wheel.

This causes two problems;
1) once it breaks grip it pivots out and that is the end of that (sometimes the diff out will save you but on mega grip surfaces you'll have the diff tighter for forward drive so probably not)
2) really slows down the cars ability to change direction as it has to come from so far over

For really high grip surfaces a longer link makes the car roll slower (but ultimately further) but the stability it provides allows you to do the other measures which give you the rotation without making the car feel uncontrolably pointy or edgy.

If you look at the shock setups used in Europe you will find oils in the 500cst/350cst range used front and rear with springs like X-gear orange front and X-gear Yellow rear .... it's a different game as the cars don't really slide.

Also as for taking rear roll induced steering away that can actually help on high grip tracks as it controls the weight transfer and thus helps keep the rear flatter through the corners encouraging more controlable rotation.

There was a reason that lengthening the rear link wasn't first on the list!

I won't run on (the only 2) clay tracks in the UK for the simple reason that you ideally want a completely different car, the two really aren't easily transferable IMHO.
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Old 11-21-2013, 05:29 PM   #8734
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anyone know where i can get a kit? amain is bone dry and my local hobby shop just sold the last one
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Old 11-21-2013, 05:41 PM   #8735
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Originally Posted by iMarky View Post
anyone know where i can get a kit? amain is bone dry and my local hobby shop just sold the last one



My track had one left.
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Old 11-21-2013, 05:44 PM   #8736
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My track had one left.
my track your track lol... thats the one dam someone beat me to the punch.. and i work next to that track.. walked on my break saw it from far away i knew it was sold yesterday

need it for parts

need any shrink wraps let me know ill hook you up.. free is how i roll... see you around
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Old 11-21-2013, 06:42 PM   #8737
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anyone know where i can get a kit? amain is bone dry and my local hobby shop just sold the last one
You could always try RC Champ or Futaba Pro Shop

Or Banzai Hobby
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Old 11-21-2013, 06:46 PM   #8738
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You could always try RC Champ or Futaba Pro Shop
thanks ill look it up... brb

edit no luck
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:21 PM   #8739
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Hobby Haven in Urbandale IA has one. I work there part time. 5152768785
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:25 PM   #8740
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anyone know where i can get a kit? amain is bone dry and my local hobby shop just sold the last one
Try absolute hobbyz
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:25 PM   #8741
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thanks ill look it up... brb

edit no luck
Try here:

http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...ducts_id=10952

or call Island Raceway tomorrow, I don't *think* they had any left, but can't hurt to check. 631-592-1844


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Old 11-23-2013, 08:52 AM   #8742
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carbons2k View Post
How do you guys add some weight to the back of your midmotor rb6's?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Why? if you need it at our track, I need your setup because these cars have abundant rear grip, if you want it for looser conditions, try the pro squat setting they have been talking about, I think 2-2.5mm under the rear hanger.
Quote:
Originally Posted by carbons2k View Post
How do you guys add some weight to the back of your midmotor rb6's?
Adding weight in the rear in MM makes it easier to drive by settling the car down and also giving you a little more room for error.

I currently run 21g in the rear. Led weights drilled into and by it screwing it down while I envy 2 others who use custom made weights.... all into the newer swaybar rear hanger.
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Old 11-23-2013, 04:56 PM   #8743
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Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo View Post
Adding weight in the rear in MM makes it easier to drive by settling the car down and also giving you a little more room for error.

I currently run 21g in the rear. Led weights drilled into and by it screwing it down while I envy 2 others who use custom made weights.... all into the newer swaybar rear hanger.
The AE weights for the TC6 have a nice threaded 20g weight.
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Old 11-24-2013, 01:54 AM   #8744
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Looks like amain has them back in stock.
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Old 11-24-2013, 09:13 AM   #8745
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Hey guys, been really working on my car in MM and weight distribution. I finally found something that is pretty easy to drive, but can turn on a dime if needed as well.

Our track is smooth right now, but can get bumpy, dusty and loose out of the groove.

Here's what I have done to the car to get the battery back as much as possible.





The only thing you need to do is modify the battery braces and shoe goo the RT6 part in place (it fits perfect) unless you want to drill 2 holes for it.


Also here is my current setup.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...Nov%202013.pdf
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