172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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11-12-2013, 01:05 PM
#8611
What can I expect coming from Losi 22 RTR? I tossed in a Tekin RS and a Tekin Gen 2 7.5t motor as well as a Savox low pro servo. I plan to swap the electronics in the RB6 I'm getting. I found the 22 to be durable but I fight to drive it well. Part of it was probably setup, but something kept calling me to the RB6.
The package I got was too good to pass up. Anything I should do as soon as I get it? It's new built, never run.
The package I got was too good to pass up. Anything I should do as soon as I get it? It's new built, never run.
11-12-2013, 01:54 PM
#8612
***pardon, amain has ghea8002 which is for rb5, as mentioned. Sorry
11-12-2013, 02:17 PM
#8614
No its a different part. Mid way between the rb5s widest one and the rb5 sp2 narrowest one. The part number is UMW7 something, the 7 implies RB6 only so it was never there for the RB5. Another happy camper with the ghea bulkhead, have had it since it launched about 4 -5 months ago. I dont need the bendy front hinge pin brace as well with a full aluminum piece, just sawed off the extra hinge pins sticking out.
11-12-2013, 04:08 PM
#8615
Flat arms basically change the progression of the rear--similar in fashion to standing the shocks up significantly more. The rear will be firmer and have less roll.
The basic idea when I tried them back to back with gull wing arms was that you could hammer out of corners better with the flat arms. I didn't notice any real loss in traction unless it was in a place that I didn't need traction anyway, such as giving me rotation that I didn't know I wanted
I also did sway bar testing with flat and gull arms and honestly, the flat arms were very similar to running gull wing arms with various sway bar options, but it felt more consistent through the corners with the flat arms.
Wayne
The basic idea when I tried them back to back with gull wing arms was that you could hammer out of corners better with the flat arms. I didn't notice any real loss in traction unless it was in a place that I didn't need traction anyway, such as giving me rotation that I didn't know I wanted
I also did sway bar testing with flat and gull arms and honestly, the flat arms were very similar to running gull wing arms with various sway bar options, but it felt more consistent through the corners with the flat arms.
Wayne
I always thought standing up rear shocks helped entry steering, but then would give up steering in the middle and up off it would feel squiggly. Always felt like it would apex then the angle wouldnt know what to do and transfer weight too fast side to side.
Seemed like vertical rears wear only good for exit, but it killed entry and center too much.
With flat arms I thought they enter pretty well, but would keep the rotation all the way through the corner and exit, almost causing a snap effect. The gull wings seem a lot tamer overall.
11-12-2013, 05:00 PM
#8616
I always thought standing up rear shocks helped entry steering, but then would give up steering in the middle and up off it would feel squiggly. Always felt like it would apex then the angle wouldnt know what to do and transfer weight too fast side to side.
Seemed like vertical rears wear only good for exit, but it killed entry and center too much.
With flat arms I thought they enter pretty well, but would keep the rotation all the way through the corner and exit, almost causing a snap effect. The gull wings seem a lot tamer overall.
Seemed like vertical rears wear only good for exit, but it killed entry and center too much.
With flat arms I thought they enter pretty well, but would keep the rotation all the way through the corner and exit, almost causing a snap effect. The gull wings seem a lot tamer overall.
11-12-2013, 06:24 PM
#8618
Tebo is one of our locals and his comment on the arms to the local kyosho club racers was that the flat arms let him take corners harder. He mentioned to me when he saw I was testing the gull wing arms vs flat arms that I might want to step up in shock oil when using the gull wing arms. He also mentioned to another local that he didn't think everyone would like the flat arms. Most of the locals are running the flat arms at our track, but our track isn't every track. I personally feel that the loss in low speed grip is well worth the ability to drive the car much harder.
Wayne
11-12-2013, 09:17 PM
#8620
Tech Adept
Flat arms basically change the progression of the rear--similar in fashion to standing the shocks up significantly more. The rear will be firmer and have less roll.
The basic idea when I tried them back to back with gull wing arms was that you could hammer out of corners better with the flat arms. I didn't notice any real loss in traction unless it was in a place that I didn't need traction anyway, such as giving me rotation that I didn't know I wanted
I also did sway bar testing with flat and gull arms and honestly, the flat arms were very similar to running gull wing arms with various sway bar options, but it felt more consistent through the corners with the flat arms.
Wayne
The basic idea when I tried them back to back with gull wing arms was that you could hammer out of corners better with the flat arms. I didn't notice any real loss in traction unless it was in a place that I didn't need traction anyway, such as giving me rotation that I didn't know I wanted
I also did sway bar testing with flat and gull arms and honestly, the flat arms were very similar to running gull wing arms with various sway bar options, but it felt more consistent through the corners with the flat arms.
Wayne
Do you have any pics with the sway bars fitted on the flat arms? Did you use the RB6 optional sway set? I have one but I can't seem to figure out how to mount them to the flat arms...
11-12-2013, 10:02 PM
#8621
11-12-2013, 10:09 PM
#8622
I don't run the sway bar now. Whatever it gave me in ability to over-drive the car, it wasn't worth the lack of low speed traction.
11-12-2013, 10:50 PM
#8623
Does anyone else run the flat arms in rear motor?
I tried it for our inter club cup we have on our clay track (with a good dose of sugar and PVA), and as said by others noticed it was a nice improvement.
Rotated more freely, the rear tracked around with the front whereas I felt the gullwing arms didn't want to rotate.
Was different to drive and took a few minutes to get used to though, I found the strong points were the weak points of the gullwings and vice versa.
I did notice the rear seemed more plush/softer, I put on a Losi LF Pink spring and am about to up the shock oil as well.
Also the camber link rubs on the spring, so I shaved a side of the ball cup and using the rearward holes on the alu hubs.
I also found it hooked in some corners a little (just low speed ones), so I just removed the spacer under the ball stud on the rear and made it one hole longer, seemed to have solved it mostly.
I run most of the jap setup with just a couple of tweaks.
Ended up coming in 2nd in the B-Main I believe (I'm not that fast a driver, bout 3 seconds a lap off the leaders on average).
Waiting for the rear holders to come in stock to try out mid motor.
I tried it for our inter club cup we have on our clay track (with a good dose of sugar and PVA), and as said by others noticed it was a nice improvement.
Rotated more freely, the rear tracked around with the front whereas I felt the gullwing arms didn't want to rotate.
Was different to drive and took a few minutes to get used to though, I found the strong points were the weak points of the gullwings and vice versa.
I did notice the rear seemed more plush/softer, I put on a Losi LF Pink spring and am about to up the shock oil as well.
Also the camber link rubs on the spring, so I shaved a side of the ball cup and using the rearward holes on the alu hubs.
I also found it hooked in some corners a little (just low speed ones), so I just removed the spacer under the ball stud on the rear and made it one hole longer, seemed to have solved it mostly.
I run most of the jap setup with just a couple of tweaks.
Ended up coming in 2nd in the B-Main I believe (I'm not that fast a driver, bout 3 seconds a lap off the leaders on average).
Waiting for the rear holders to come in stock to try out mid motor.
11-13-2013, 06:12 AM
#8624
No its a different part. Mid way between the rb5s widest one and the rb5 sp2 narrowest one. The part number is UMW7 something, the 7 implies RB6 only so it was never there for the RB5. Another happy camper with the ghea bulkhead, have had it since it launched about 4 -5 months ago. I dont need the bendy front hinge pin brace as well with a full aluminum piece, just sawed off the extra hinge pins sticking out.
