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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-12-2013, 01:05 PM
  #8611  
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Originally Posted by jamesbernatchez View Post
What can I expect coming from Losi 22 RTR? I tossed in a Tekin RS and a Tekin Gen 2 7.5t motor as well as a Savox low pro servo. I plan to swap the electronics in the RB6 I'm getting. I found the 22 to be durable but I fight to drive it well. Part of it was probably setup, but something kept calling me to the RB6.

The package I got was too good to pass up. Anything I should do as soon as I get it? It's new built, never run.
I only drove a few 22's but they all lacked rotation, the RB6 felt a lot more nimble, while still being stable.
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Old 11-12-2013, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Is Yaiba the only one making a Alum RB6 front hinge pin holder? I would like a heavier brass one, but so far I've only seen rb5 ones.
I got a black alloy from ghea. Ordered from absolutehobbyz in nj. Pricey but nice. And not red. I also noticed amain has ghea brass piece for the rb6 too

***pardon, amain has ghea8002 which is for rb5, as mentioned. Sorry
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Old 11-12-2013, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by glenng View Post
I got a black alloy from ghea. Ordered from absolutehobbyz in nj. Pricey but nice. And not red. I also noticed amain has ghea brass piece for the rb6 too
can anyone confirm the Rb5 sp2 had the narrow front hinge brace like the Rb6? that is what I'm not sure on, I know the regular Rb5 one is wider.
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Old 11-12-2013, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
can anyone confirm the Rb5 sp2 had the narrow front hinge brace like the Rb6? that is what I'm not sure on, I know the regular Rb5 one is wider.
No its a different part. Mid way between the rb5s widest one and the rb5 sp2 narrowest one. The part number is UMW7 something, the 7 implies RB6 only so it was never there for the RB5. Another happy camper with the ghea bulkhead, have had it since it launched about 4 -5 months ago. I dont need the bendy front hinge pin brace as well with a full aluminum piece, just sawed off the extra hinge pins sticking out.
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Old 11-12-2013, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
Flat arms basically change the progression of the rear--similar in fashion to standing the shocks up significantly more. The rear will be firmer and have less roll.

The basic idea when I tried them back to back with gull wing arms was that you could hammer out of corners better with the flat arms. I didn't notice any real loss in traction unless it was in a place that I didn't need traction anyway, such as giving me rotation that I didn't know I wanted

I also did sway bar testing with flat and gull arms and honestly, the flat arms were very similar to running gull wing arms with various sway bar options, but it felt more consistent through the corners with the flat arms.

Wayne

I always thought standing up rear shocks helped entry steering, but then would give up steering in the middle and up off it would feel squiggly. Always felt like it would apex then the angle wouldnt know what to do and transfer weight too fast side to side.

Seemed like vertical rears wear only good for exit, but it killed entry and center too much.

With flat arms I thought they enter pretty well, but would keep the rotation all the way through the corner and exit, almost causing a snap effect. The gull wings seem a lot tamer overall.
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Old 11-12-2013, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
I always thought standing up rear shocks helped entry steering, but then would give up steering in the middle and up off it would feel squiggly. Always felt like it would apex then the angle wouldnt know what to do and transfer weight too fast side to side.

Seemed like vertical rears wear only good for exit, but it killed entry and center too much.

With flat arms I thought they enter pretty well, but would keep the rotation all the way through the corner and exit, almost causing a snap effect. The gull wings seem a lot tamer overall.
Standing shocks up or going to a stiffer spring should add steering everywhere, unless of course you mean steering from the rear end washing out on power, which is not something I like my cars to do
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Old 11-12-2013, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
Standing shocks up or going to a stiffer spring should add steering everywhere, unless of course you mean steering from the rear end washing out on power, which is not something I like my cars to do
Right, which is why Im curious why you said you can punch it coming out, to me the rear is a lot freer with the flat arms.
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Old 11-12-2013, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Right, which is why Im curious why you said you can punch it coming out, to me the rear is a lot freer with the flat arms.
Ahh, I can see the confusion. It's basically fixing the situation where you have too much chassis roll. If you have too much chassis roll when exiting the corner on power, the car can loop out out because it "over rolled" and the tire contact patch went away. Basically, with a higher roll center, stiffer rear springs, or these flat arms, you're giving up a little low speed grip for corner exit stability once the weight is transferred and you're hard on power. This may not always be the right decision, especially if you're seriously lacking grip.

Tebo is one of our locals and his comment on the arms to the local kyosho club racers was that the flat arms let him take corners harder. He mentioned to me when he saw I was testing the gull wing arms vs flat arms that I might want to step up in shock oil when using the gull wing arms. He also mentioned to another local that he didn't think everyone would like the flat arms. Most of the locals are running the flat arms at our track, but our track isn't every track. I personally feel that the loss in low speed grip is well worth the ability to drive the car much harder.

Wayne
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Old 11-12-2013, 06:48 PM
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Did he think the gull's provided too much grip then and made him slide around?
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Old 11-12-2013, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Razathorn View Post
Flat arms basically change the progression of the rear--similar in fashion to standing the shocks up significantly more. The rear will be firmer and have less roll.

The basic idea when I tried them back to back with gull wing arms was that you could hammer out of corners better with the flat arms. I didn't notice any real loss in traction unless it was in a place that I didn't need traction anyway, such as giving me rotation that I didn't know I wanted

I also did sway bar testing with flat and gull arms and honestly, the flat arms were very similar to running gull wing arms with various sway bar options, but it felt more consistent through the corners with the flat arms.

Wayne
Hey Wayne,

Do you have any pics with the sway bars fitted on the flat arms? Did you use the RB6 optional sway set? I have one but I can't seem to figure out how to mount them to the flat arms...
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Old 11-12-2013, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Did he think the gull's provided too much grip then and made him slide around?
I really have no idea. He just mentioned the shock oil thing to me--the cornering hard thing he said to a another guy. I wasn't there for that conversation.
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Old 11-12-2013, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by nitroargi View Post
Hey Wayne,

Do you have any pics with the sway bars fitted on the flat arms? Did you use the RB6 optional sway set? I have one but I can't seem to figure out how to mount them to the flat arms...
https://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?p=12571478

I don't run the sway bar now. Whatever it gave me in ability to over-drive the car, it wasn't worth the lack of low speed traction.
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Old 11-12-2013, 10:50 PM
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Does anyone else run the flat arms in rear motor?

I tried it for our inter club cup we have on our clay track (with a good dose of sugar and PVA), and as said by others noticed it was a nice improvement.

Rotated more freely, the rear tracked around with the front whereas I felt the gullwing arms didn't want to rotate.
Was different to drive and took a few minutes to get used to though, I found the strong points were the weak points of the gullwings and vice versa.

I did notice the rear seemed more plush/softer, I put on a Losi LF Pink spring and am about to up the shock oil as well.
Also the camber link rubs on the spring, so I shaved a side of the ball cup and using the rearward holes on the alu hubs.

I also found it hooked in some corners a little (just low speed ones), so I just removed the spacer under the ball stud on the rear and made it one hole longer, seemed to have solved it mostly.
I run most of the jap setup with just a couple of tweaks.

Ended up coming in 2nd in the B-Main I believe (I'm not that fast a driver, bout 3 seconds a lap off the leaders on average).

Waiting for the rear holders to come in stock to try out mid motor.
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Old 11-13-2013, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
No its a different part. Mid way between the rb5s widest one and the rb5 sp2 narrowest one. The part number is UMW7 something, the 7 implies RB6 only so it was never there for the RB5. Another happy camper with the ghea bulkhead, have had it since it launched about 4 -5 months ago. I dont need the bendy front hinge pin brace as well with a full aluminum piece, just sawed off the extra hinge pins sticking out.
You make a good point about the front brace, since that is one reason I wouldn't have wanted an odd sized block, if I can't find new braces. (I somehow ended up with 3 different sized ones already), but if its not needed, that would be a plus.
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Old 11-13-2013, 06:37 AM
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I just switched to mm and I was I spaced the rear hinge pin holder 2mm up. So should I raise the tranny up 1mm or 2mm? Thanks for the help
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