Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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#8581
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...ico2013080811/
Tebo's nats setup was my starting point, and I race on low to medium grip. The biggest change I made was to go down to 25 weight losi oil in the rear and 30 in the front (we race indoors where its cooler). Using a full saddle all the way back is ideal for lower grip with mid motor in my opinion.
Right now I'm on the 0 degree caster blocks too, but that was just because it offered more steering at the end of our straight in a banked corner (which sounds like it should be the opposite, but that's how it worked out). On our last layout, I ran 4 degree blocks and preferred them.
Its worth noting that in super low traction conditions, rear motor might be your only option if you want to be able to get on the gas at all. Having said that, the track has to get really blown out before mid stops working.
Wayne
Tebo's nats setup was my starting point, and I race on low to medium grip. The biggest change I made was to go down to 25 weight losi oil in the rear and 30 in the front (we race indoors where its cooler). Using a full saddle all the way back is ideal for lower grip with mid motor in my opinion.
Right now I'm on the 0 degree caster blocks too, but that was just because it offered more steering at the end of our straight in a banked corner (which sounds like it should be the opposite, but that's how it worked out). On our last layout, I ran 4 degree blocks and preferred them.
Its worth noting that in super low traction conditions, rear motor might be your only option if you want to be able to get on the gas at all. Having said that, the track has to get really blown out before mid stops working.
Wayne
#8583
Tech Elite
iTrader: (133)
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...ico2013080811/
Tebo's nats setup was my starting point, and I race on low to medium grip. The biggest change I made was to go down to 25 weight losi oil in the rear and 30 in the front (we race indoors where its cooler). Using a full saddle all the way back is ideal for lower grip with mid motor in my opinion.
Right now I'm on the 0 degree caster blocks too, but that was just because it offered more steering at the end of our straight in a banked corner (which sounds like it should be the opposite, but that's how it worked out). On our last layout, I ran 4 degree blocks and preferred them.
Its worth noting that in super low traction conditions, rear motor might be your only option if you want to be able to get on the gas at all. Having said that, the track has to get really blown out before mid stops working.
Wayne
Tebo's nats setup was my starting point, and I race on low to medium grip. The biggest change I made was to go down to 25 weight losi oil in the rear and 30 in the front (we race indoors where its cooler). Using a full saddle all the way back is ideal for lower grip with mid motor in my opinion.
Right now I'm on the 0 degree caster blocks too, but that was just because it offered more steering at the end of our straight in a banked corner (which sounds like it should be the opposite, but that's how it worked out). On our last layout, I ran 4 degree blocks and preferred them.
Its worth noting that in super low traction conditions, rear motor might be your only option if you want to be able to get on the gas at all. Having said that, the track has to get really blown out before mid stops working.
Wayne
#8584
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
MM SETUP FOR LOW TO MEDIUM TRACTION WET TRACK
Here what's I have been running at my local track... You can't use setup on a track that have traction with MM buggy more than likely you are not gonna have forward bite when you run the same setup on a track that have low traction. I have been running MM since the losi 22 came out and learn a lot how to properly setup a MM buggy.. I got the base setup posted at petit rc for kyosho RB6..
Here what's I have been running at my local track... You can't use setup on a track that have traction with MM buggy more than likely you are not gonna have forward bite when you run the same setup on a track that have low traction. I have been running MM since the losi 22 came out and learn a lot how to properly setup a MM buggy.. I got the base setup posted at petit rc for kyosho RB6..
#8585
MM SETUP FOR LOW TO MEDIUM TRACTION WET TRACK
Here what's I have been running at my local track... You can't use setup on a track that have traction with MM buggy more than likely you are not gonna have forward bite when you run the same setup on a track that have low traction. I have been running MM since the losi 22 came out and learn a lot how to properly setup a MM buggy.. I got the base setup posted at petit rc for kyosho RB6..
Here what's I have been running at my local track... You can't use setup on a track that have traction with MM buggy more than likely you are not gonna have forward bite when you run the same setup on a track that have low traction. I have been running MM since the losi 22 came out and learn a lot how to properly setup a MM buggy.. I got the base setup posted at petit rc for kyosho RB6..
Any difference in the set up if the track is not wet?
Thanks and ciao,
Lorenzo
#8586
Tech Regular
iTrader: (19)
MM SETUP FOR LOW TO MEDIUM TRACTION WET TRACK
Here what's I have been running at my local track... You can't use setup on a track that have traction with MM buggy more than likely you are not gonna have forward bite when you run the same setup on a track that have low traction. I have been running MM since the losi 22 came out and learn a lot how to properly setup a MM buggy.. I got the base setup posted at petit rc for kyosho RB6..
Here what's I have been running at my local track... You can't use setup on a track that have traction with MM buggy more than likely you are not gonna have forward bite when you run the same setup on a track that have low traction. I have been running MM since the losi 22 came out and learn a lot how to properly setup a MM buggy.. I got the base setup posted at petit rc for kyosho RB6..
#8588
Generally speaking, when you move your transmission up or down, you're asking the rear to stay at a certain ride height on power. The drive shafts want to be straight on power as I understand it, so raising the transmission should keep the weight at the rear on power longer... I THINK.
#8589
it increases "dog bone plunge" which creates a slight bind in drivetrain. That increases rear traction. I did it with my losi 22's with dramatic improvement. I think there is a youtube video of one of the losi guys explaining it more in depth.
#8590
Tech Champion
iTrader: (73)
Well currently that's not a problem that I need to fix, but I was thinking that, running low ride height like 18mm is getting the bones below level and I wonder if I should shim the trans to get them back, but I wouldn't want to add a bind (I actually think this may remove the bind at low ride height though).
#8592
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
I also tried my setup on dirt track with medium traction dusty track and it still work.. I haven't driven my RM RB6 in a while when I got my MM RB6 working...
#8593
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Generally speaking, when you move your transmission up or down, you're asking the rear to stay at a certain ride height on power. The drive shafts want to be straight on power as I understand it, so raising the transmission should keep the weight at the rear on power longer... I THINK.
The key to MM on low to medium traction track is to have the lowest possible roll center with pro-squat and just fine tune the buggy from their base off your driving style..
#8595
I just use jared's setup and I tend to win.