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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-24-2013, 11:54 PM   #8491
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Quote:
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How does one reverse ackerman like I am seeing on tebos mid motor setup sheets?
Have the arrow point to the rear of the car while putting together the steering rack.
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Old 10-25-2013, 10:15 AM   #8492
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That's what I figured... Thanks!
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Old 10-27-2013, 06:27 PM   #8493
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Ran car for first time yesterday. Car did really well except turning. It is so slow and sluggish around corners. I wanna be able to whip around the turns like the other buggies. Once I can get that figured out ill br good to go
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Old 10-27-2013, 08:31 PM   #8494
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Originally Posted by Jeremy0203 View Post
Ran car for first time yesterday. Car did really well except turning. It is so slow and sluggish around corners. I wanna be able to whip around the turns like the other buggies. Once I can get that figured out ill br good to go
This car can steer. Sounds like you have the wrong tires...
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Old 10-27-2013, 08:56 PM   #8495
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tried brand new barcode gold and barcode greens(or blue cant remember).
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:35 PM   #8496
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tried brand new barcode gold and barcode greens(or blue cant remember).
New tires always suck at first. Sand them down to save some break in time. Also sauce them up with some buggy grip. That will help soften the new rubber.
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Old 10-27-2013, 10:24 PM   #8497
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Quote:
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Ran car for first time yesterday. Car did really well except turning. It is so slow and sluggish around corners. I wanna be able to whip around the turns like the other buggies. Once I can get that figured out ill br good to go
Can you share the weight of your car?
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Old 10-27-2013, 11:10 PM   #8498
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When will there be a WC version of this car?
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Old 10-27-2013, 11:29 PM   #8499
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What shims should you use when you use the losi pistons?
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Old 10-28-2013, 01:41 AM   #8500
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Anyone run a VST 2 8.5? If so are you having issues with lack of initial punch and if so do you run any boost/timing/turbo on it?


Im taking my 7.5 out to put in an 8.5 so I can toss the 7.5 in my truck, but I'm a little concerned that my car may not make a particular jump at our track.

Theres a guy who runs a Centro and a Reedy 8.5 and his car launches over it compared to mine. Its not a weight issue as much as it is a smooth motor issue.
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:12 AM   #8501
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I ran vst1 8.5 for a bit. Geared 23/76 ran upto the second timing line on the motor. I run nosram/lrp esc so the boost was around 20* starting at 7000rpm adding 1* per 1000rpm. Motor timing makes the biggest difference to punch. I do remember the 8.5 felt flat but still jumped fine. I think it's just a really smooth motor.

Since then I have moved to the vst2 7.5 run running no timing and 5* boost 0.4* per 1000rpm. 21-22/76. I find the small part throttle jumping is better with less boost/timing and more motor.
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Old 10-28-2013, 10:40 AM   #8502
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Thanks. Haven't messed with motor timing. Just turbo.
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Old 10-28-2013, 11:13 AM   #8503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom87 View Post
Since then I have moved to the vst2 7.5 run running no timing and 5* boost 0.4* per 1000rpm. 21-22/76. I find the small part throttle jumping is better with less boost/timing and more motor.
Couldn't agree more. I used to run the VST (version 1) stuff, and noticed that I lacked oomph on short run ups. I cheated and switched to Reedy motors, and love them. I might even try an LRP X20 in my 4WD.
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Old 10-28-2013, 11:37 AM   #8504
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I had a couple of the VST versoin 2s. They lack punch compared to the tekin gen2s and the killshots I run now. The killshot 17.5 is almost like cheating with the 57 degree timing set. Runs cool and punchy.
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:52 PM   #8505
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Couldn't agree more. I used to run the VST (version 1) stuff, and noticed that I lacked oomph on short run ups. I cheated and switched to Reedy motors, and love them. I might even try an LRP X20 in my 4WD.
Lrp x20 motors run hot. No matter what you gear them at always expect the temps to be high.
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