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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 09-21-2013, 09:48 AM   #8206
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Does anyone run drag brake....I've only ever ran Stock with no drag brake. I am now starting to run Mod and was wondering what most prefer drag or no drag
Very little drag bake enough to slow it down without locking the rear.. If you put a lot they tend to spin out due to te fact it's 2wd..
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Old 09-21-2013, 10:33 AM   #8207
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Very little drag bake enough to slow it down without locking the rear.. If you put a lot they tend to spin out due to te fact it's 2wd..
I run 5% in my orion. Tebo swears by something like 7% if I recall correctly. It depends on your motor and setup. I am thinking of trying more, but the basic idea is to get your car to not just coast forever, like being throttle off while in gear in a real race car, providing you with a little corner entry braking, especially as you approach the apex of the corner.
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Old 09-21-2013, 11:10 AM   #8208
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I have been out of it for about 4 months and am getting back into it. I see that Kyosho has released new hubs and suspension holders with inserts. I have the standard and wide versions now but what is with the new ones? Are they necessary? I see they only make one size, can you adjust them to wide if you want? or are they going to be coming out with some wide ones?

Also the new hubs? any advantage?
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Old 09-21-2013, 08:04 PM   #8209
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They are not necessary at all but are the way to go if you don't already have alloy hangers.

You have 7 ranges of adjustment, from 2 wider than the older wide hangers to 1 narrower than the old narrow hangers and inbetween.
You can also adjust toe with them also.

The new hubs have plastic inserts where the bearings go, so less wear on the bearing faces and allows larger or smaller bearings.
Wouldve been nice if they added inserts to change the toe like a couple of other brands but ohwell.

I find getting to the inner hanger is a bit more involving but saying that still a million times better than the Durango.
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Old 09-21-2013, 09:33 PM   #8210
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http://www.muchmoreracing.net/us/detail/xgb001.htm

Another body to choose from.

So, 5 in total now?
Stock
Jconcepts
Proline
Penguin
Much More.

I think the Jconcepts is the best looking of the bunch though.
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Old 09-21-2013, 11:53 PM   #8211
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Originally Posted by Shimmy View Post
http://www.muchmoreracing.net/us/detail/xgb001.htm

Another body to choose from.

So, 5 in total now?
Stock
Jconcepts
Proline
Penguin
Much More.

I think the Jconcepts is the best looking of the bunch though.
You missed the speedpassion body makes it look like a losi 22 hehehe I love the jconcepts as well fits better actually than even the stock body for RM config.
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Old 09-22-2013, 12:31 AM   #8212
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First night out with rb6, kit arms shimmed up 1mm to address roll, TQed and won mod 2wd mod. Car was a trip. I was definitely not driving very well, but I could put down some good laps. If the rest of the "core fast guys" were there, I would have been middle to bottom of the pack with them, which is actually a bit slower than I was with my b4.1, but I've got years of experience setting up and tuning b4s . For a first night out, trying things out, and really trying to get the hang of driving a 2wd that basically feels like a somewhat broken 4wd, it was very decent.

Going to try Tebo's 2wd rear end flat arm setup next to see what all the fuss is about . Already put it on the car along with the short shock ends and same ballstud washer setup.

I do have to say that once I figured out how to carry speed into corners and out with the mid motor it was just unfair for the other cars, but I was less sure footed all around as I was not accustom to driving it. I'm sure once I figure out the driving style, it will only get better. One of our "core fast guys", a friend of mine that I base my pace off of, was there and noted that I was pretty much dead even with his times on my first night out racing in 4 months with a new car so this can only get better once I learn the ins and outs of driving mid motor.
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Old 09-22-2013, 08:11 AM   #8213
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Once you get the point-and-shoot out of your system, mid-motor is pretty damn good. It takes a lot of patience/control to roll on and off the throttle, rather than to just stab at it.

Just have to watch out for obstacles coming into a corner, because it's harder to make up the time lost coming back out.
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:31 AM   #8214
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What battery strap is that?
Its a homemade one, was waiting for a RudeBits tray to turn up: http://www.rudebits.co.uk/product_in...roducts_id=412

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Old 09-22-2013, 11:12 AM   #8215
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Ah, looks good. Ive seen a few RB's where people have removed the esc tray and wanted to do that myself
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Old 09-22-2013, 06:45 PM   #8216
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Tebo's using an extra 15g somewhere in his MM setup. Does anyone know which one and where the extra 15g could be at? I need just a little more in the rear and logically it seems to be the right idea (I also want to keep the weight as low as possible)

http://jtprc.com/2013/09/20/car-chec...3-ifmar-worlds
"Actually my car has more weight in the rear now. I wanted to lighten up my car. The speedo and battery now isn’t much different than the saddle and speedo up front. I have a 15g brass weight on the back of the rear bulk head. "
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Old 09-22-2013, 08:52 PM   #8217
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Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo View Post
Tebo's using an extra 15g somewhere in his MM setup. Does anyone know which one and where the extra 15g could be at? I need just a little more in the rear and logically it seems to be the right idea (I also want to keep the weight as low as possible)
Does this help?
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Old 09-22-2013, 08:55 PM   #8218
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Hey Jason, based on what you know now, do you think the mid motor would be the way to go at Leisure Hours?
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:18 PM   #8219
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Does this help?
It is a new rear bulkhead for mm. Wonder when this will be released or even announced.
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Old 09-22-2013, 09:58 PM   #8220
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I was curious about that too, and found it here.
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