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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 06-24-2013, 07:55 PM
  #7381  
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Mip top shaft is different than the avid one

In regards to caster, more caster means more turn in less exit steering, less caster mew s more exit steering less turn in
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:04 PM
  #7382  
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Originally Posted by Team G Racing View Post
I checked on Amain and compared the Avid RB6 and the MIP and it looks a little different. I will wait til MIP answers
The MIP top shaft for the B4 fits into standard 3/16x3/8 bearings... So unless kyosho has went away from metric... I'd say its a no go
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by silveraider14 View Post
My rb6 has a stupid amount of initial turn in. Is there anything I can do to lessen it? I am running a mid motor on carpet.

Also for some resason my car just wants to throw a whip off of the biggest jump on the track. Not saying I don't like it cause it makes it look awesome! Just want to know why lol
Is you buggy loose in the rear? I know you said carpet but.... If your loosing traction off of the face of the jump it will do that.

If your tranny is diffing out on the face of the jump it will do it as well.

Some things to check.
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Old 06-24-2013, 11:42 PM
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no its not loose in the rear. its not loose but not locked down.
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Old 06-25-2013, 12:25 AM
  #7385  
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Originally Posted by Jam-Air View Post
In regards to buggy weight, I saw a 1680 gram buggy run a second a lap faster than everyone else in money stock
I assume your talking about Andrew Smolnik. More weight helps with the traction when it gets dusty, also he was only .4 faster then me by the time I got things figured out in round 2. We had a good battle in the Main, but I just couldn't make up the time I lost. I think I settled at around 1580 grams, I ran at 1620 with saddle pack and didn't like it.
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:01 AM
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silveraider it sounds like maybe the way things are mounted in your buggy is offsetting weight to one side of the car causing the whip effect. i would start by putting the car on a tweak station and getting all my preloads good and even, then i would counter balance the side of the car that isnt dropping, little by little to get a idea of the amount of weight and what component i need to move to get the car more balanced.. if you have access to 4 scales that would make things easier..
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Cspurlock View Post
Does anyone know if you can run mid motor with the narrow hangers? If so do you use the same hanger as rear motor or a different one?
Thanks in advance!
Anybody?
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Old 06-25-2013, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Cspurlock View Post
Anybody?
Not currently, I'm speculating that the new adjustable hangers might be able to achieve this, but I haven't seen the specs of what inserts are available.
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Old 06-25-2013, 10:30 AM
  #7389  
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Hi Guys,

We have a few of the Kyosho V2 Aluminum Rear uprights (0 deg and 0.5 deg) left in stock.

Thanks,
Jeff
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Old 06-25-2013, 10:39 AM
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Straight from MIP

Unfortunately No, but Avid RC products manufactures an aluminum top shaft for the Kyosho that is made by MIP. Check out their site. Same quality went into that topshaft as it does into ours.
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Old 06-25-2013, 11:26 AM
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i figured out my saddle packs were sliding side to side so i am gonna put a even amount of foam on each side to keept them put
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:07 PM
  #7392  
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that would do it
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Team G Racing View Post
Straight from MIP

Unfortunately No, but Avid RC products manufactures an aluminum top shaft for the Kyosho that is made by MIP. Check out their site. Same quality went into that topshaft as it does into ours.
Let me just ask: What's your point?

Just go buy the two try mounting them up and compare. Or, even better, ride your bike to your LHS and have them show you both.

You post more than Wildcat1971...
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:57 PM
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Silverraider14, take droop out of the front end. You can use the short eyelets or put limiters inside the shock body. This will take away crazy steering while on power. However, under breaking you'll be faced with crazy initial steering again.

I'll be at the track all evening tomorrow if its dry out. I got a few more things to adjust on mine.
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Old 06-26-2013, 09:04 AM
  #7395  
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Originally Posted by JiuHaWong View Post
Let me just ask: What's your point?

Just go buy the two try mounting them up and compare. Or, even better, ride your bike to your LHS and have them show you both.

You post more than Wildcat1971...
+1 lol
You were asking the same questions in the b4 thread. Why?
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