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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 05-07-2013, 09:24 AM   #6676
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Anyone run it with the side pods cut down? I normally use only 1 screw in the front and sometimes no stiffening screws at all. Also have no use for the receiver tray. When I get my stock buggy I am going to try to run the diggity cf holders and run a lengthwise velcro to secure the battery. Also maybe run without the spur cover and eliminate slipper thats around 10 grams I think.
What parts are you using to eliminate the slipper?
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:24 AM   #6677
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Howabout running with no side pods?

What effect do you get when running without the shim under the motor guard?
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:41 AM   #6678
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What parts are you using to eliminate the slipper?
http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...roduct_id=2716 with avid top shaft
http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...ry&path=64_190

Jason Dias 17.5 WCRC setup.

If you want to go the cheaper route with the Kyosho top shaft use
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXZUC5&P=7 this should fit it but no guarantees until I get it in my hands. I ordered it as a spare.
or
http://www.speedysracingparts.com/Lo...eliminator.htm but this guy needs the avid top shaft as well.
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:45 AM   #6679
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Howabout running with no side pods?

What effect do you get when running without the shim under the motor guard?
For running without side guards, you do need to replace the part where the front tower plate mount sits on the guards. It has some conical thing to grab onto it. Might have to fashion something up or get it in aluminum. Its a reverse conical washer (the closest description). To replace the guards we can use thin carbon fiber or cut up lexan in that shape for sealing (like the tekno air guards). For the rears can mount the body posts with some washers I think.
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:57 AM   #6680
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Howabout running with no side pods?
You would lose your front to back rigidity of the chassis. I think you would risk bending and/or severely tweaking the chassis by casing a jump, or hitting something too hard square in the nose.
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:00 AM   #6681
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I would mill the side pods down before removing them entirely. Also the side pods help dampen the flex of the chassis. Without them, the car may feel inconsistent.
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:19 AM   #6682
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I'm not really going to. just seeing if anybody has. I'm running no screws in the side pods and I am very happy.

How many shims are you guys using under the motor guard? I always ran just the .5 shown in the manual. But now I am running no shim at all. And I haven't noticed a difference. What are the effects? What am I missing?
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:22 AM   #6683
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its an anti squat adjustment. You can shim the front of rear. By removing it from the rear, you increased the anti squat. Are you back to rear motor?
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:28 AM   #6684
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I am back to rear and going to race it tonight. This will be a really good test for me to see how I like the 2 configurations. The time to beat is 17.9 for me, but I am really lookin to see which config suites my driving style best.
I think I am just as fast with both really
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:32 AM   #6685
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Assume anti squat same between rear and mid.

If I'm right .5 shim = 1 degree, so if wanted 3 degrees, that's be .5 upfront and none on rear for mid.
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:47 PM   #6686
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Default Kyosho New Parts

No.UMW704-0
V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Carrier Set
(0゚/RB6/ZX/RT/SC)
Aluminum material delivers increased rigidity and durability. Aluminum rear hub carrier includes a choice of 3 different bearing bushes that improve drive efficiency and durability. 0゚ toe angle.
 
Available in May 2013

I copied this on the english version of kyosho.com.

Anybody know anything about this part.
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:23 PM   #6687
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I too was told the alum hub was going through new spec changes. You can't order the current one through Japan anymore.
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:35 PM   #6688
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Anyone else see this before?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDKHB&P=7
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:05 PM   #6689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkirkwood View Post
I have used Tekin RS & RS Pro, Viper VTX10, Orion R10 Pro and now the Reventon Pro in recent years. The Orion R10 Pro and Reventon Pro are very close in performance and both can be made very smooth on the throttle, but I think the MOD2 software on the Reventon has a bit better brake feel, IMO. The other two listed I won't consider again for Off-road 2wd buggy.
Sorry to dig up old old postings but I am looking at the Reventon Pro for my RB6 and I had a question about reliability and ease of programming. Is it the same as the other manufacturers in ease of use, or does it take some tweaking? What motor do you run with it? Any comparisons would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:18 PM   #6690
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ive had a few Rev pros and got tired of them bricking or going poof. They are very smooth when they worked though. I switched to the Gen2 rs and its every bit as good and smooth as any new esc.
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