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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 04-17-2013, 01:12 AM   #6241
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Says 41mm
You *may* have width issues. I'll have a look later
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Old 04-17-2013, 01:13 AM   #6242
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.
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Last edited by silvalis; 04-17-2013 at 04:20 PM.
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:56 AM   #6243
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Which rear wheels fit the best. So far noticed that the AKA and Avid rims dont work since there is not enough thread left over for the nut.
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:05 AM   #6244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Which rear wheels fit the best. So far noticed that the AKA and Avid rims dont work since there is not enough thread left over for the nut.
Same thing with the JC rear wheels
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:27 AM   #6245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Which rear wheels fit the best. So far noticed that the AKA and Avid rims dont work since there is not enough thread left over for the nut.
As mentioned in earlier posts, almost all of the non-Kyosho rear wheels will need a serrated nut and then they fit fine (though I cannot speak for AVID, haven't tried)

I personally run nothing but AKA and love the way they fit, especially in the front. The hex/hole is perfect and not wobbly.

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Old 04-17-2013, 08:27 AM   #6246
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AKA Hexlite wheels work fine on the RB6.
All you have to take care is changing to a nut like the 1-N4045F that secure themselves on the wheel and not the shaft.
The whole team ran them at the European Offroad Series race last weekend without any single issue of a wheel coming loose.
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:42 AM   #6247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeanV View Post
As mentioned in earlier posts, almost all of the non-Kyosho rear wheels will need a serrated nut and then they fit fine (though I cannot speak for AVID, haven't tried)

I personally run nothing but AKA and love the way they fit, especially in the front. The hex/hole is perfect and not wobbly.

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Which LPF serrated nut are you using?
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:06 AM   #6248
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I'm using some xray and durango (cheap) ones I had lying around.
The CoreRC ones are fine too.

I had some 3racing alu ones strip themselves somehow once, so maybe avoid them...

I'm running avid wheels. Rears will need serrateds. Avid fronts will need the Rb5 axle that does not have the integrated hex. Note that using this will space out your regular k wheels by a couple of mm.
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:04 AM   #6249
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Iv never had a single issue with the factory kyosho wheels myself, and I think they look the best to boot
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:13 AM   #6250
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well, I have avids, JC's and AKA wheels from my b4, so I am hoping they will all fit. Looks like i might need LPF nut for sure.
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:23 AM   #6251
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KYO1-N4045F is the Kyosho part number for serrated nuts. They are pretty cheap too.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Flanged-Nut-10

If you look around you can find them in red as well.
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:25 AM   #6252
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are those low profile enough for the avid/jc/aka rear wheels?
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:29 AM   #6253
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The best fitting wheel is the stock Kyosho wheels. No wobble, stays straight and looks good.
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:32 AM   #6254
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The price on the wheels is nice and they appear to have a lot of webbing. But i still need to use up my other wheels and tires first, lol.
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:32 AM   #6255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
are those low profile enough for the avid/jc/aka rear wheels?
I run them on JC wheels without issue.

I will agree that the Kyosho wheels are the best for the car. The availability of JC wheels locally out weigh that for me. I don't have to order a bunch of wheels and carry them with me. The LHS has the JC wheels on the wall at all times.
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