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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 04-11-2013, 10:14 AM   #6166
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Did you come from an RB5?
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Old 04-11-2013, 10:32 AM   #6167
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Got my rear gold springs from eBay today! Can't wait to do some testing with these bad boys!
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Old 04-11-2013, 11:48 AM   #6168
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Originally Posted by toyota 2jz View Post
someone please correct me if im wrong! the wide rear end will make the car more unstable? and the narrow rear end will make the car hook up in the rear?his is weird because in my rb5 wc the wide rear end was where its at! that thing was locked with the right rear camber link position! so with all that being said..is this car worth the money? i do not want to hear biased opinions because you have one! need to know if i will regret it later on!
No bias here. Buy it if you want to no ones pushing you. The rb5 is still potent anyways.
I still own two cougars, two dex210, 1 rb5 wc and the rb6. Nothing gets driven except the rb6. That reminds me I need to do a spring cleanup sale
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Old 04-11-2013, 11:56 AM   #6169
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Originally Posted by photopro View Post
Thanks again for everyone's help. I can't post the setup, but I will as soon as I can. To answer some of your questions.
Track is indoor hard packed, dry clay with clean surface (we sweep it between heats)
I'm running .5 rear hubs
White rear springs, 27.5wt, 3rd hole on tower from outside
Front is wide track, 25+4 and no shim under nose. Minimal rear anti squat.
Front shocks with 35 wt, stock spring and position.
Shorty all the way back. Orion r10 pro in rear bulkhead.
Shorty servo
Rear camber links have 2mm shim outer, 1mm inner
Front camber links are short and have 1mm under inner stud and 1mm out.
2mm under outer steering link for bump steer. None inner.
As I said before, closed cell foams made the car undriveable. Running suburbs. Changing to open cell helped a lot, but honestly, I'm shocked at how difficult it is to keep under control. By far, the most difficult car to drive out of my lot.

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So every other car is 4wd and your 2wd feels out of control? welcome to 2wd You didn't mention what motor you are running, but chances are you could be better suited with a 17.5 to start, get the feel for throttle control and learning when you can and can't use it.
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Old 04-11-2013, 12:13 PM   #6170
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
So every other car is 4wd and your 2wd feels out of control? welcome to 2wd You didn't mention what motor you are running, but chances are you could be better suited with a 17.5 to start, get the feel for throttle control and learning when you can and can't use it.
+100 what motor do you have hanging off the back?

i'm not sure if you've driven much 2wd in the past but its gonna be a ton harder to drive then 4wd. and you certainly can't smash on the throttle coming out of a corner.

throttle control
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Old 04-11-2013, 01:15 PM   #6171
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Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
No bias here. Buy it if you want to no ones pushing you. The rb5 is still potent anyways.
I still own two cougars, two dex210, 1 rb5 wc and the rb6. Nothing gets driven except the rb6. That reminds me I need to do a spring cleanup sale
lol thanks man
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Old 04-11-2013, 01:39 PM   #6172
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I am in desperate need of a front set of Clay compound AKA handlebars. If your LHS has some please pick me up a set and PM me. Thanks
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:32 AM   #6173
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Yeah, everything else is 4wd, but the first 15 years in r/c were all 2wd. Honestly, I grew up on indoor clay, running Associated RC10's, all carbon fiber, stealth tranny, both buggy and truck, and held more AMain wins and tack records than I can count. Used to run reedy 13 or 14 turn motors, and never had to baby my cars like I need to with this. Years later I ran 2wd nitro rc10GT.

I'm going to stiffen the front, move the battery back, and add some weight and see what happens.

I'm running two motors. 17.5 and 7.5.
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:34 AM   #6174
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Originally Posted by photopro View Post
Yeah, everything else is 4wd, but the first 15 years in r/c were all 2wd. Honestly, I grew up on indoor clay, running Associated RC10's, all carbon fiber, stealth tranny, both buggy and truck, and held more AMain wins and tack records than I can count. Used to run reedy 13 or 14 turn motors, and never had to baby my cars like I need to with this. Years later I ran 2wd nitro rc10GT.

I'm going to stiffen the front, move the battery back, and add some weight and see what happens.

I'm running two motors. 17.5 and 7.5.
do you have the same issues with the 17.5 as the 7.5 ?
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:43 AM   #6175
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I am in desperate need of a front set of Clay compound AKA handlebars. If your LHS has some please pick me up a set and PM me. Thanks
Check losi parts house
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:56 AM   #6176
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Yeah, no different. I run the punch control on the Orion r10 pro at 2 or 3 on the 7.5 to reduce power. It's pretty docile and still all over the place. Even on asphalt or carpet. It's starting to tick me off.
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:57 AM   #6177
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If narrow rear hangers make it push, than that's what I'm going to try.
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Old 04-12-2013, 12:38 PM   #6178
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Hey guys do you know what body this is?

http://eos.redrc.net/wp-content/gall...i-krappact.jpg
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Old 04-12-2013, 12:40 PM   #6179
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Originally Posted by photopro View Post
If narrow rear hangers make it push, than that's what I'm going to try.
Wide hangers are better on high bite. Narrow hangers on low bite. Try going to a softer rear spring, lay the rear shocks down (on the tower), go to the inside hole on the rear arm, or lower the rear roll center.
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Old 04-12-2013, 01:06 PM   #6180
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maybe u have a bent hinge pin or something they do bend easy on the 6.. i would go through the car it seems like you have something besides set up issue that are effecting you.. how tight is your diff.. i find this car likes a snug diff
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