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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-21-2013, 10:05 PM   #5806
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Default RB5 vs RB6 rear arms

I was doing some comparisons and thought I would share

The rb5 arms place the hubs farther back ~2mm than the rb6 arms (the arms are centered on the pins though you cant tell from the camera angle).

The other differences on the rb6 arms
- lower shock mounting location
- inside pivot is 2mm narrower
- outside pivot is 2mm wider
- shock mounting is about 2mm farther forward if shimmed center
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-imag0319.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-imag0314.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-imag0307.jpg  
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Old 03-22-2013, 01:09 AM   #5807
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Has anyone been able to fix the slop in the steering? I cant get mine to go away. Im running Exotec steering but it happened with the stock parts as well.
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Old 03-22-2013, 02:38 AM   #5808
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Has anyone been able to fix the slop in the steering? I cant get mine to go away. Im running Exotec steering but it happened with the stock parts as well.
Could really do with a steering rack with bearings, rather than bushings.
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Old 03-22-2013, 03:33 AM   #5809
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Originally Posted by 1fastdude View Post
I've read about 100 pages and didn't see what body is everyone using? The stock Kyosho or JConcepts Finisher or Proline Bulldog?
everyone at our track runs the kyosho body and i looked at the proline and thought it was hideous--until i saw it with Hara's paint scheme at the Reedy race, which was really nice. It looks like a completely different body than the one in their advertisement. So I am painting a few to see how they look. To make the bulldog look nice i think you have to change the side window outline.

Lots of people like the J concepts body's but I think that double window and chevron stair step on the back of the hood is fuggly.
just my taste.
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Old 03-22-2013, 04:55 AM   #5810
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Default droop

why wouldnt you just measure full shock length like we do on 8th scale? seems a heck of a lot more simple.. i like the keep it simple stupid approach.. and you could always have blocks machined that you would put under the chassis with no wheels on the car and take your ride height and measure to the lowest point on the arm. then adjust eye lit till both sides are equal.
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:15 AM   #5811
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Hi guys im hoping you can help me with a problem that I have. Fyi this is my first 10th scale vehicle. Here is the problem. build ball diff set pretty tight and installed avid clutch system did the brakein like the youtube video. Here is the issue when I have the car on the stand and slowly rotate the wheel the other wheel does not rotate in the opposite direction. Im assuming that means that I have it to tight. When I drive the car on my carpet it drives fine. When I try to do the lift test to set the clutch, the car will not lift. I also have thightened the clutch pretty much all the way. Is the issue the diff?
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:20 AM   #5812
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22 View Post
Hi guys im hoping you can help me with a problem that I have. Fyi this is my first 10th scale vehicle. Here is the problem. build ball diff set pretty tight and installed avid clutch system did the brakein like the youtube video. Here is the issue when I have the car on the stand and slowly rotate the wheel the other wheel does not rotate in the opposite direction. Im assuming that means that I have it to tight. When I drive the car on my carpet it drives fine. When I try to do the lift test to set the clutch, the car will not lift. I also have thightened the clutch pretty much all the way. Is the issue the diff?
Are you holding the spur when you turn one wheel? most brushless motors don't have enough "cog" or resistance and you end up spinning the motor before the diff. When holding the spur you should be able to spin the wheel about one revolution with a good "flick".
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:47 AM   #5813
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Default Pistons and oil

Here's a question for you. What pistons, oil and springs as a BASE starting point for indoor tracks with medium bite? I understand that the set-ups may be different, but just looking for a starting point.

Stock out-of-the box pistons (5 hole)
Front oil _______ Rear oil _______
Front spring _________ Rear spring _______

Losi 55 pistons (4 hole)
Front oil _______ Rear oil _______
Front spring _________ Rear spring _______

Ghea pistons
Front oil _______ Rear oil _______
Front spring _________ Rear spring _______

Avid pistons What size and # of holes
Size ___________ Holes _______
Front oil _______ Rear oil _______
Front spring _________ Rear spring _______
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:48 AM   #5814
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Has anyone been able to fix the slop in the steering? I cant get mine to go away. Im running Exotec steering but it happened with the stock parts as well.
I noticed vertical play in the steering arms on mine. I pulled the arms and bearings off each steering post then added a .1mm shim UNDER the plastic shim (look at assy directions). Guessing it is a 5x7 shim I used. It's really good now.
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:42 AM   #5815
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Questions??

Quote:
Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Has anyone been able to fix the slop in the steering? I cant get mine to go away. Im running Exotec steering but it happened with the stock parts as well.
Has anyone tried these ?

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/UMW702-...6_p_21793.html
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:46 AM   #5816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fastdude View Post
Here's a question for you. What pistons, oil and springs as a BASE starting point for indoor tracks with medium bite? I understand that the set-ups may be different, but just looking for a starting point.

Stock out-of-the box pistons (5 hole)
Front oil _______ Rear oil _______
Front spring _________ Rear spring _______

Losi 55 pistons (4 hole)
Front oil _______ Rear oil _______
Front spring _________ Rear spring _______

Ghea pistons
Front oil _______ Rear oil _______
Front spring _________ Rear spring _______

Avid pistons What size and # of holes
Size ___________ Holes _______
Front oil _______ Rear oil _______
Front spring _________ Rear spring _______







Losi 55 pistons (4 hole)
Front oil __35_____ Rear oil _30______
Front spring __pink_______ Rear spring __gold_____

Some say that oil should be a lighter weight 32.5f / 27.5 rear but I am pretty happy with the heavier weight oils
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Old 03-22-2013, 09:17 AM   #5817
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris-s View Post
Could really do with a steering rack with bearings, rather than bushings.
I have the all metal steering with bushings and its still bad. Its not the ballcups either.

It's really frustrating, I will try shimming the hell out of it I suppose.
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Old 03-22-2013, 10:12 AM   #5818
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
I have the all metal steering with bushings and its still bad. Its not the ballcups either.

It's really frustrating, I will try shimming the hell out of it I suppose.
I fought this same thing with more than normal "slop" in the steering (compared to our previous RB5's). I tried shimming and found the only way to rid the cars steering slop, was to replace the stock (plastic) steering crank arms & the king pins every once in a while. I also run the UMW701 Alum rack and found that changing the cranks & king pins is what keeps things tight as they both wear a bit (more than can be seen by the eye). Its not the most economical means to "fix" the slop, but it does keep things tight.
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Old 03-22-2013, 11:32 AM   #5819
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fastdude View Post
Here's a question for you. What pistons, oil and springs as a BASE starting point for indoor tracks with medium bite? I understand that the set-ups may be different, but just looking for a starting point.
I've only had the buggy a few weeks so haven't done much testing but right now i'm running the stock 5 hole piston with one hole glued shut, 30.25F/25R and its working well so far for tight medium-high bite clay track. I have some Losi pistons to try for comparison when i have time, they are a slightly smaller diameter with square edges.

Has anyone tried two hole 1.6mm pistons on the RB6?
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Old 03-22-2013, 11:33 AM   #5820
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Should I be measuring the rear ride height under the transmission, or in front of the trans?

Also should I drop the car then measure? It seems like if I drop it, then roll it back and forth a little it will raise a couple millimeters.
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