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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-08-2013, 04:11 PM   #5566
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...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dale.0 View Post
What is the psrt number for the shock ends?
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdowney View Post
S = W5015
M = 97038
L = LA43
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Old 03-08-2013, 04:18 PM   #5567
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Thank you!
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Old 03-08-2013, 07:56 PM   #5568
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S = W5015
M = 97038
L = LA43

this needs to be stickied!
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:14 PM   #5569
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Originally Posted by joeymdz View Post
S = W5015
M = 97038
L = LA43

this needs to be stickied!
I can add to post #1!! This is a good one to have there, I think.

(EDIT: added to post #1... I didn't double check that they are in fact accurate part numbers... if there is an issue, let me know? Somebody check my work.)
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 03-08-2013 at 08:42 PM.
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:47 PM   #5570
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
I can add to post #1!! This is a good one to have there, I think.

(EDIT: added to post #1... I didn't double check that they are in fact accurate part numbers... if there is an issue, let me know? Somebody check my work.)
The part numbers you quoted are correct and accurate.
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Old 03-09-2013, 06:07 PM   #5571
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I remember seeing a formula for how much bumpsteer to run for a given amount of caster and kick up. I can't seem to find it. Does anyone remember?
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Old 03-09-2013, 07:27 PM   #5572
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
I remember seeing a formula for how much bumpsteer to run for a given amount of caster and kick up. I can't seem to find it. Does anyone remember?
Someone said recently 1mm per 3dg, I have no formula to back that up
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Old 03-09-2013, 07:35 PM   #5573
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Bump steer just changes the amount of toe you gain or lose when the suspension compresses. Most people set it up so that the toe stays the same through whole corner.
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Old 03-09-2013, 07:54 PM   #5574
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I had stickied this
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Caster, Bumpsteer, and Ackerman math.

I decided to break out my hudy setup station, and my 2mm hex, and do some measuring for our setup sheets. Lets start with bumpsteer and caster.

Bumpsteer - bumpsteer is what happens when you induce either more toe in, or more toe out, as the front suspension compresses. (bump-in, or bump-out). You can change how much or little bumpsteer you have by controlling the vertical angle of the steering turnbuckles. The more vertical the steering link goes as the suspension compresses, the more the turnbuckle will pull the steering block inwards, inducing bump out. So to reduce bump-out, you have to reduce the height of the ballstud on the turnblock. If you get bump-in, that means you need to raise the height of the ballstud.

What some people don't realize, is that changing caster, changes the relative height of the ballstud / turnblock, because more caster rotates the turnblock backwards, so it drops the ear/stud closer to the ground. So if you run 25 caster and set your bumpsteer to 0 (no bump in or bump out), and then decide to change your caster to 30, you actually dropped the height of the ballstud by 2mm. So I did a lot of testing and measuring just to make sure that the numbers are accurate. For ZERO bumpsteer:
  • 25 caster = 0mm washer under turnblock ballstud
  • 27 caster = 1mm washer under turnblock ballstud
  • 30 caster = 2mm washer under turnblock ballstud

Ackerman - Ackerman affect is the difference between the turning radius of the inside wheel, and the outside wheel, in a corner. Because the inside of the car will natually track along a smaller circle, to maximize steering and minimize a slip angle, the angle of the tires need to match the steering radius. If you have too little ackerman, or too much, the slip angle means one tire is sliding instead of rolling, reducing steering.

I tested just two ackerman settings on the steering rack just for my own info, and got the following:
  • 0mm under steering rack ballstud = 30deg and 23deg
  • 1mm under steering rack ballstud = 30deg and 23deg

zero change in ackerman. Might have something to do with the fact that the steering turnbuckkles are right about flat, straight across /perpendicular to the chassis. I think ill test again later with my plastic steering rack to make sure it's not my alu version. More to come.
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Old 03-09-2013, 10:31 PM   #5575
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steam View Post
I had stickied this
Capt. pls add the above to your opening post, Cheers!

p.s. For 25 + 4 deg (caster block), 2mm would be okay right? (Japan setup has it as 2.5mm)
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Old 03-10-2013, 12:14 AM   #5576
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steam View Post
I had stickied this
I want to say that's not the most current, only because Brandon went to 3mm of bump steer shims with 30mm of kick up.
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 03-10-2013 at 08:07 PM.
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Old 03-10-2013, 01:55 AM   #5577
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cool car
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:26 AM   #5578
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Mine is backwards and I like it.
what sort of track have you tried this on?
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Old 03-10-2013, 11:26 AM   #5579
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Our club track is outdoor red hard packed clay which develops a groove in the afternoon but also can have a loose layer of dust on top that gets blown off. I would say traction is low to medium at best depending on the time of day. By night you can run almost slicks and have grip. I feel it quiets down the steering on my car. I run a full size servo and also amb transponder on top of servo. Shorty pack in mid position.
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Old 03-10-2013, 03:26 PM   #5580
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Default rear arms

hi, whats the purpose of the 521 1 arms? more traction or corner speed?? thanks
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