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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-16-2013, 11:55 AM   #5221
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
Looking for a starting point for 17.5 gearing/ timing.

D3.5 with a 12.5 high torque rotor
Orion r10 pro
Orion 4000mah 90c
Avid triad

31/72 was my sweet spot for d3.5 blinky.
I need lots of torque for my track tho. Timing at 5* more than the stock 30* baseline setting

Last edited by ryanpatrickgore; 02-16-2013 at 11:59 AM. Reason: Add timing
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Old 02-16-2013, 11:58 AM   #5222
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Just to make sure I'm not crazy here, the manual has you build the front end wide right? I've had people tell me they run narrow "like the manual" but the eccentric needs to be pointing away from the kingpin to be narrow, that moves the whole chub in. Manual has the hole furthest away from the kingpin which widens the track...
What exactly does this refer to? THe bulkhead with the options of UM502, UM721/STD, or UM567?

Also, does anyone know why Tebo runs the 521-1 as opposed to the 2hole WC- arms? I think the 2-hole are UM521....
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Old 02-16-2013, 05:08 PM   #5223
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What exactly does this refer to? THe bulkhead with the options of UM502, UM721/STD, or UM567?

Also, does anyone know why Tebo runs the 521-1 as opposed to the 2hole WC- arms? I think the 2-hole are UM521....
I was referring to the caster insert setting, you can flip it for wide or narrow settings. I believe the parts you listed also change the front track, but from the inside.
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Old 02-16-2013, 05:19 PM   #5224
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I had my first race night with the car, I had intended to run back to back with my b4.1 but didn't have that car ready. Overall the car is very very good, the steering balance is great and the car pretty much does what you tell it too. I did have an issue, and I'm not alone, with the "rythm" section and the car not absorbing the bumps well, I added some droop which helped, but my feeling is that I need a slightly different shock package, this sections my B4 actually handles better, so maybe some more pack (2x1.6 vs 5hole in kyo, both with 35wt).

I was able to take off .4ths from my last run, I believe conditions were a little bit better which counted for some of it. I found that running the 521 arms and narrow blocks with the stock hub, I needed the inside hole to match the hole people with the alum hubs were running. This added a good bit of rotation without getting loose. I still need to pick up some .5 hubs. I ran proline rims without issue as well, I used the stock nut with nylon for the front and low profile serrated on the rear.
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:05 AM   #5225
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Hey guys, please need your help. Setting the diff? Do you completely collaps then turn it back 1/8, 1/4? etc?. Also, would it be normal to rebuilt my RB6 diff if i have a total of about 16 rounds of hard racing on inside carpet track. thanks.
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:22 AM   #5226
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That's how I set my diff usually set between 1/8 and 1/4. I only rebuild when it feels gritty and not smooth like it did when I last built one.. 16 races on carpet.... It might be time?
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Old 02-17-2013, 12:18 PM   #5227
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Hey guys, please need your help. Setting the diff? Do you completely collaps then turn it back 1/8, 1/4? etc?. Also, would it be normal to rebuilt my RB6 diff if i have a total of about 16 rounds of hard racing on inside carpet track. thanks.
No... bottoming out the screw and then backing it back off some arbitrary amount is how you put a dent in your rings and/or diff balls. You start very very very loose, and then slowly tighten the diff 1/2 turn to 1/4 turn at a time, and do a small break-in between each step.
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:41 PM   #5228
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On patite rc, can anyone see Cody Turners latest set up?
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:38 PM   #5229
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
It would explain why tebo runs 1mm
But why not add the limiters in the front too?
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:44 PM   #5230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
I had my first race night with the car, I had intended to run back to back with my b4.1 but didn't have that car ready. Overall the car is very very good, the steering balance is great and the car pretty much does what you tell it too. I did have an issue, and I'm not alone, with the "rythm" section and the car not absorbing the bumps well, I added some droop which helped, but my feeling is that I need a slightly different shock package, this sections my B4 actually handles better, so maybe some more pack (2x1.6 vs 5hole in kyo, both with 35wt).

I was able to take off .4ths from my last run, I believe conditions were a little bit better which counted for some of it. I found that running the 521 arms and narrow blocks with the stock hub, I needed the inside hole to match the hole people with the alum hubs were running. This added a good bit of rotation without getting loose. I still need to pick up some .5 hubs. I ran proline rims without issue as well, I used the stock nut with nylon for the front and low profile serrated on the rear.
Try Tebo's CRCRC setup for this year. He went to 4 hole pistons and the car is a whole lot better. Cody Turner runs that setup now and loves it as well
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:02 PM   #5231
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Originally Posted by Nitronut3 View Post
Try Tebo's CRCRC setup for this year. He went to 4 hole pistons and the car is a whole lot better. Cody Turner runs that setup now and loves it as well
Assuming he drilled out 4x55 in blank kyosho pistons? I read some using the losi, but it wasn't quite the same diameter?
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:07 PM   #5232
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Ok so I got sidetracked a little. After 5 months 10 days I finally got the 6 on the track

FWIW:
- the chassis underside the gearbox dented
- the stock front hinge pin holder bent (very easily, and so did the spare)
- the stock steering brace did not break
- the rear upper hub plate (ball stud carrier) did not break. I used nut under ball stud and grub screws in empty holes
- front inner ball stud popped out (dang! first time ever)

Compared to rb5:
- the 6 is WAY easier to handle. More stable and flies much better. More planted.
- turns WAY better.
- I feel it lacks rear bite, or maybe because its feels more stable that it 'appears' laidback and lackluster. After checking lap times both were comparable, meaning there is greater envelope to really push this car. I did slightly hold back in fear of breaking the known issues.
- it feels less aggressive, which may or may not be ideal. Feels less 'urgency' in getting round the track.

Japan setup with 0.5 hubs, shorty pack in middle, 1590g. First time I felt like I was driving a car and not fighting it like I had been with the rb5. As a newbie, this car is maybe too easy to drive! It's like it will autocorrect your mistakes both on the floor and in the air. I will definitely keep the rb5 to continue honing some proper 2wd driving skills!

One guy said I was outrunning a 1/8 nitro it was so smooooooth. I was LOLing on the drivers' stand!
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:18 PM   #5233
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- it feels less aggressive,
My RB6 is twice as aggressive as my RB5.
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:36 PM   #5234
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Originally Posted by Nitronut3 View Post
Try Tebo's CRCRC setup for this year. He went to 4 hole pistons and the car is a whole lot better. Cody Turner runs that setup now and loves it as well
I was also thinking about just moving the battery forward a bit, right now its a shorty in the rear most position.
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:40 PM   #5235
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My RB6 is twice as aggressive as my RB5.
Or maybe my rb5's setup is erratic like a bull in china shop, aggressive in an otherwise manner! Personally I feel the rb6 more responsive, but within a more predictable, controlled window. I wasn't having to fight the car.

Cpt., I agree with most of what you post on the first page, and the wide/narrow explanation has helped with my rb5 too - thanks. The rb5 is very easy to drive.. slow. To make it fast I've had to push it beyond its comfort zone, which leads to more mistakes. My 2 cents. Cheers!
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