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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-11-2013, 07:01 PM   #5101
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:05 PM   #5102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
In the instructions we tell you to take it apart, wipe everything down, and then re-assemble after you've broken in everything (usually 1 race night). The white pads will be more polished and you can wipe off all the residue from initial run-in. Just put it back together and usually the spring will be collapsed to 9.5 to 10mm when it's set right. I can usually set them by hand. If you can't slip the clutch with your hand turning the spur, it's too tight.
Thanks. Good info
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:06 PM   #5103
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My car is due to be delivered on Wednesday. I should have it built that night.

Nah, seriously I will have it built by Thursday evening. I always allocate 2 evenings to build a new kit. Sad thing is my new servo and battery won't be in till the weekend.
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:11 PM   #5104
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With a good 2mm driver, and a cup of Joe, you can have it assembled in <~2 hrs.
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:13 PM   #5105
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Quote:
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Great shot, Trevor... car looks goooooood...
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:16 PM   #5106
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With a good 2mm driver, and a cup of Joe, you can have it assembled in <~2 hrs.
I am sure I could. I tend to do the main car build one night and install the electronics the 2nd night.
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:48 PM   #5107
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Anyone know where I can find a NIB RB6? Just an FYI, I have broken two titanium rear camber links since I installed an aluminum rear ubrace and titanium ball studs. Used to tear ball studs out of the plastic stock one. Went back to the stock steel camber link for now.
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:58 PM   #5108
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Quote:
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Anyone know where I can find a NIB RB6? Just an FYI, I have broken two titanium rear camber links since I installed an aluminum rear ubrace and titanium ball studs. Used to tear ball studs out of the plastic stock one. Went back to the stock steel camber link for now.
I think Abosolute Hobbyz still has some. That is where I got mine.
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:01 PM   #5109
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Currently, I have a 17.5 motor in my RB6.

I was wondering (other than being faster), what are the advantages of running a 13.5 or 'faster' motor? Longer battery run time? Cooler motor temps? Less stress on the ESC?
(I don't really know; just would like to weigh the pros and cons.)

Thanks for any info.


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Old 02-11-2013, 08:47 PM   #5110
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First time with the rb6 with saddles and first time running offroad in 6 months, a tad rusty
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xC_D...e_gdata_player
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:01 PM   #5111
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Anyone know what size nuts go on the kyosho ball studs? I broke my servo horn for my xp servo and am now using the xp servo horn and need to put a nut on the back of the horn to secure it. Is there a better servo horn to use in the RB6 for an xp digital?
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:04 PM   #5112
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Quote:
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First time with the rb6 with saddles and first time running offroad in 6 months, a tad rusty
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xC_D...e_gdata_player
That track is WAY too big... holycrap . 60 second lap times? Id split that building in half... off road in one half, onroad in another.
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:08 PM   #5113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by savageboy69 View Post
First time with the rb6 with saddles and first time running offroad in 6 months, a tad rusty
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xC_D...e_gdata_player
Whoa, that track is sweet. HUGE!!! (that's what she said...)
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:54 PM   #5114
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That'd be awsome track to run on constantly.

Be a mod track for sure. Nitro and electrics in one place, cool.
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:55 PM   #5115
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http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
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