Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road
Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread >

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

Like Tree42Likes

Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

    Hide Wikipost
Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0░/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

Print Wikipost

Reply

Old 02-06-2013, 02:21 PM
  #5011  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
 
Rfury's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NW Ga
Posts: 4,503
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
I LOVE building kits ... I HATE doing wiring
Shocks are the one thing I don't like. The rest of it is almost relaxing.
Rfury is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2013, 02:22 PM
  #5012  
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (52)
 
Cpt.America's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Washington State
Posts: 11,083
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Rfury View Post
Shocks are the one thing I don't like. The rest of it is almost relaxing.
Ever built kyosho big bore shocks? They are the easiest and most buttery shocks you will ever build.
Cpt.America is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2013, 02:25 PM
  #5013  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
 
joeymdz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Oreogan
Posts: 2,993
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by aloksatoor View Post
Really? Its around 80% price of a brand new car. I'd never do that, building a kit is one of the most satisfying things in this hobby!
winning is the most satisfying thing for me


PS~ Kyosho shocks are the easiest things to build!!! and they come out like butter the first time... cant beat that!
joeymdz is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2013, 02:29 PM
  #5014  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
 
RodneyB's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 902
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Yzlvr View Post
I believe the distributors are out of stock..
Yesterday my LHS called Kyosho and they told him 3 weeks for next shipment with RB6 and ZX5 FS SP2.
RodneyB is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2013, 02:33 PM
  #5015  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
 
Rfury's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NW Ga
Posts: 4,503
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Ever built kyosho big bore shocks? They are the easiest and most buttery shocks you will ever build.
I have been building Kyosho shocks pretty much exclusively since 2008 (I had a SLosi 22 and XXX-4 along the way). Building shocks is just not my favorite things to do.
Rfury is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2013, 03:36 PM
  #5016  
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Imperial,Missouri
Posts: 1,295
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Took the plunge and bought a shorty to run instead of the saddles I had been running. Hopefully with the lighter weight and getting the rear hangers right the car will be much better.
X God is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2013, 05:05 PM
  #5017  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (124)
 
Dusttt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Lake Forest
Posts: 2,315
Trader Rating: 124 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by t8rtot View Post
also i can't attached the link for some reason but Yaiba Racing rolled out some steering and rear bulkhead parts as well.
interesting it says Tresrey at the bottom of the page

http://www.yaiba-racing.com/index_eng.html
Dusttt is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2013, 05:07 PM
  #5018  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (124)
 
Dusttt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Lake Forest
Posts: 2,315
Trader Rating: 124 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Rfury View Post
Shocks are the one thing I don't like. The rest of it is almost relaxing.
and don't get me started on turnbuckles LOL
Dusttt is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2013, 05:34 PM
  #5019  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
 
Rfury's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NW Ga
Posts: 4,503
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Dusttt View Post
and don't get me started on turnbuckles LOL
It is amazing where a little lube will get you...


wait, what are we talking about?

Seriously, put a little black grease in the ball cup before you put them on. It will make things go so much easier and make them easier to adjust when on the car.
Rfury is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2013, 05:35 PM
  #5020  
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Imperial,Missouri
Posts: 1,295
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

I read on the first page that Capt.America ran the narrow rear hangers to lock the rear end in more. Has anyone else tried it and what were your thoughts compared to the wides, Thanks.
X God is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2013, 05:37 PM
  #5021  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)
 
gelshocker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 717
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by joeymdz View Post
I was tempted... doesn't mean I'm going to... =)

you could always disassemble it.... then reassemble it! lol
Every time I do that I inadvertantly strip out the threads. Only solution is to buy a fresh kit!

Seriously I do overhaul the car especially the moving parts to check for slack, bent hinge pins, parts moving freely etc. before a race event. Good time to put on fresh arms, hubs, bumpers, for sake of looking good too

+1 the painting is worse. Takes way too long but won't settle for monotone!
gelshocker is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2013, 09:36 PM
  #5022  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
 
SAMCRO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 171
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by X God View Post
I read on the first page that Capt.America ran the narrow rear hangers to lock the rear end in more. Has anyone else tried it and what were your thoughts compared to the wides, Thanks.
I run wides and my car is locked down.
SAMCRO is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2013, 10:49 PM
  #5023  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 507
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

I read on the first page that Capt.America ran the narrow rear hangers to lock the rear end in more. Has anyone else tried it and what were your thoughts compared to the wides, Thanks.
Yep the narrow blocks offer the most rear side bite. Good for flowing high speed tracks while the wide blocks are better for hair pins and low speed corners. I know it's a pain to change, just take the gear box off is best, but it's really something you should try and worth the effort.
Tom87 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2013, 04:14 AM
  #5024  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 15
Default

Picked up a RB6 today at lunch at my local hobby store. I am so stoked, gonna run a Vortex vst 7.5t and a hobbywing 120a v3.1 and a sav÷x SC-1251MG low profile servo.

The tracks i will be running on to begin with is super high grip carpet. Should i build with the stock setup in the manual or is there a better standard setup to work from on high grip tracks? Guessing mid motor is the way to go..
daniz is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2013, 04:50 AM
  #5025  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (17)
 
carcrusher46's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: the 'burgh
Posts: 648
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

I've run my RB6 on carpet and I was very impressed by how the car ran in rear motor. I ran a kit setup with the rear hubs all the way back and was amazed how balanced the car was. I ran Panther Soft Raptors in the rear and super-soft Lynx fronts. It was way more predictable, consistent and stable than my old B4 was when I used to run it on the same track.
carcrusher46 is offline  
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Terms of Service