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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-03-2013, 04:17 AM   #4906
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Ran the 720B front suspension brace today and was pleasantly surprised with it's strength. I bent the old one 3+ times, today running the new stronger part and having some of the same wrecks, it's still perfectly straight. It's the same color and dimensions as the stock piece, except for a line on the top that's there as an identifying mark I assume. Anyway, great upgrade, well worth the money. I bought the last one off Amain though, so :P
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:29 AM   #4907
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Originally Posted by Just1More View Post
Ran the 720B front suspension brace today and was pleasantly surprised with it's strength. I bent the old one 3+ times, today running the new stronger part and having some of the same wrecks, it's still perfectly straight. It's the same color and dimensions as the stock piece, except for a line on the top that's there as an identifying mark I assume. Anyway, great upgrade, well worth the money. I bought the last one off Amain though, so :P
So you are the one...

Thanks for the update on the part, I have like 12 combat spares of the old type. I can work through them pretty quick though because all it takes is someone sneezing on it and it will bend.
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:32 AM   #4908
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Just wanted to give my .02 on my experiences with the 6. I've had K cars for a long time and have loved them all especially my sp2. I've had an rb6 since November and have struggled with it. I finally started reading all of your posts and discovered a few things I had done wrong, and I changed my setup to the Japan team setup... holy [email protected]$t what a difference It flies better, out turns most of the cars out there and is planted with out losing the ability to control a slide. I added a lap to my best qualifier and I improved my best lap time by almost a second. I'm SOLD! I finished 3rd overall in a class of 14 and I was running a 17.5 against mostly mods (they stuck us all together) and was 20 seconds from a sponsored driver for the win in a 10 minute main. I'm usually a low a main high b main guy. I just want to thank Brandon and all the people for all the good advise. I have NO Kyosho support here in Az and all of your input is VERY helpful. Any rb6 doubters... game over! Lol oh and all you guys shaving weight my car is a pig as far as weight goes (old electronics long wires etc.. and I'm easily as fast as the other guys with 17.5s and I like having the weight to throw around in the corners.)

Last edited by Swade; 02-03-2013 at 09:44 AM.
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Old 02-03-2013, 09:34 AM   #4909
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Quote:
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Just wanted to give my .02 not my experiences with the 6. I've had K cars for a long time and have loved them all especially my sp2. I've had an rb6 since November and have struggled with it. I finally started reading all of your posts and discovered a few things I had done wrong, and I changed my setup to the Japan team setup... holy [email protected]$t what a difference It flies better, out turns most of the cars out there and is planted with out looking the ability to control a slide. I added a lap to my best qualifier and I improved my best lap time by almost a second. I'm SOLD! I finished 3rd overall in a class of 14 and I was running a 17.5 against mostly mods (they stuck us all together) and was 20 seconds from a sponsored driver for the win. I'm usually a low a main high b main guy. I just want to thank Brandon and all the people for all the good advise. I have NO Kyosho support here in Az and all of your input is VERY helpful. Any rb6 doubters... game over! Lol oh and all you guys shaving weight my car is a pig as far as weight goes (old electronics long wires etc.. and I'm easily as fast as the other guys with 17.5s and I like having the weight to thrown around in the corners.)
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Old 02-03-2013, 11:32 AM   #4910
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Thanks Sam,
Yes I understand this. I'm not that familiar with the RB5 parts evolution, I was just trying to catch up and understand changes. It is pretty awsome that we can pretty much run any arm on this car for tuning purposes.
I was told by a team driver that essentially the strait arms help square the car up, where the swept arms carry more corner speed. But its really a tuning function to your driving style. It's not like there is a right and wrong option.

I dont think losi or AE offer different arm options........
No problem, I ran it last night, but took it off because it made my rear a-arms level (like a touring car) and didn't have any down droop. I am going to try it again with no limiters and the long shocks ends...
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:03 PM   #4911
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Way happy with this buggy. Don't miss the DEX210 at all. Ran indoor yest. at JCP down in Indy. Buggy was dialed with mostly Tebo Midwest setup except 521-1 arms and RB5 axles. Buggy was better than I was. Very aggressive, yet stable. If only I can be smoother lol. I wish I had more time to run.
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Old 02-03-2013, 01:09 PM   #4912
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swade View Post
Just wanted to give my .02 on my experiences with the 6. I've had K cars for a long time and have loved them all especially my sp2. I've had an rb6 since November and have struggled with it. I finally started reading all of your posts and discovered a few things I had done wrong, and I changed my setup to the Japan team setup... holy [email protected]$t what a difference It flies better, out turns most of the cars out there and is planted with out losing the ability to control a slide. I added a lap to my best qualifier and I improved my best lap time by almost a second. I'm SOLD! I finished 3rd overall in a class of 14 and I was running a 17.5 against mostly mods (they stuck us all together) and was 20 seconds from a sponsored driver for the win in a 10 minute main. I'm usually a low a main high b main guy. I just want to thank Brandon and all the people for all the good advise. I have NO Kyosho support here in Az and all of your input is VERY helpful. Any rb6 doubters... game over! Lol oh and all you guys shaving weight my car is a pig as far as weight goes (old electronics long wires etc.. and I'm easily as fast as the other guys with 17.5s and I like having the weight to throw around in the corners.)
I don't have my car in front of me. How much different is the kit setup from the Japan team setup?
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Old 02-03-2013, 03:02 PM   #4913
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I don't have my car in front of me. How much different is the kit setup from the Japan team setup?
Quite a bit, but its for a looser dirt track as far as I can tell check petit rc there is a ton of setup help
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Old 02-03-2013, 03:10 PM   #4914
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Just a bit of maintenance advice for you guys. Check your CVDs! I disregarded mine, and lately my car has been super sensitive. It wasn't out of control, but it was VERY aggressive.

I checked the CVD pins to find them worn nearly 50%! I put new ones on and my car actually pushed because the rear end would engage that much faster. So I shortened the front axle (using RB5) and added a shim to the rear inner stud and it was so much better. It actually has a TICK of a push but that is related to new front tires.

Anyway, check those CVD pins regularly and change them if you can, it makes the car change drastically.
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Old 02-03-2013, 03:53 PM   #4915
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Just a bit of maintenance advice for you guys. Check your CVDs! I disregarded mine, and lately my car has been super sensitive. It wasn't out of control, but it was VERY aggressive.

I checked the CVD pins to find them worn nearly 50%! I put new ones on and my car actually pushed because the rear end would engage that much faster. So I shortened the front axle (using RB5) and added a shim to the rear inner stud and it was so much better. It actually has a TICK of a push but that is related to new front tires.

Anyway, check those CVD pins regularly and change them if you can, it makes the car change drastically.
Yep.... worn pins and outdrives destroys the car's handling,,, which is why Iv been so ever patiently waiting for the MIPs. I was discouraged to find out they cost the same as the kyoshos... I wont buy until im certain I can buy just outdrives, and just swingshafts from MIP as well.. The whole axle kit is expensive. They need to make them with replaceable pins!!! WTF MIP?
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Old 02-03-2013, 04:13 PM   #4916
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The Kyosho diff is around $45 and the MIP diff is about $32, quite a difference. I know a couple guys already running the MIP diff and really like it.
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Old 02-03-2013, 04:15 PM   #4917
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where did u buy urs?
Got it from GHEA Racing. They just started making them and I picked one up at their workshop, but it should be available in their webshop soon (and AbsoluteHobbyz, Amain, etc).
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Old 02-03-2013, 04:27 PM   #4918
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The Kyosho diff is around $45 and the MIP diff is about $32, quite a difference. I know a couple guys already running the MIP diff and really like it.
..true, but the MIP Super Diff comes with plain old steel balls - so there`s 12 bucks or so to get new balls. -unless the stock Kyosho balls last forever?
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Old 02-03-2013, 05:23 PM   #4919
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The Kyosho diff is around $45 and the MIP diff is about $32, quite a difference. I know a couple guys already running the MIP diff and really like it.
Was talking about the CVD... haven't priced the diff.
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Old 02-03-2013, 05:26 PM   #4920
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How are they different than ones already produced? How much does it weigh compared to the stock piece?

I'v never had an issue with the factory front hanger on either the rb5 or rb6.
The GHEA aluminium version weighs 10g (stock plastic version is 5g), but main difference is that it will not flex and deform like the plastic one does. When deformed the angles of the hinge pins change, which will not only change your setup but also cause the shock ball ends to eventually break off since the suspension arms doesn't travel with the proper angle to the shocks. It also causes UM720 to be bent out of shape very easily.
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