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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-01-2013, 11:30 PM   #3796
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how do you find the fit of 72 / 34? when I ran that gearing I felt the mesh was a bit too tight - slight binding
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:27 AM   #3797
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does anyone know of a bleeder shock cap that will fit on the stock shocks for thr rb6?
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:56 AM   #3798
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Originally Posted by ByteStream View Post
Just picked one of these kits up for a little change of pace.

The track is indoor - clay - 70x40ft. I plan to run the kit box stock until I get a feel for it, then make adjustments/upgrades as necessary.

Couple of questions:

1. Mid vs. Rear - what are most people going with on this type of surface? I've seen indoor track setups running mid, but most clay tracks running rear. Going to be running Gold Barcodes front/rear as it is the popular choice at the track.

2. Gearing - 13.5 blinky/boosted gearing - Reedy 13.5 - what is a good starting point for both? Looking to pick up a range of pinons. 76T is the stock spur right? I have no problem tuning to temp, just looking for a start.

3. I've read some posts that mention getting the rear aluminum suspension holders, but I've seen narrow and wide .. what is the stock replacement?

Thanks in advance.
1) Generally rear for anything that isn't high grip (ie, astro/carpet) but there are a few who run MM on indoor clay. Look for fastestwon's posts.

2) Yes, 76 is stock. Not sure about gearing, I think someone suggested 28?

3) Wide is stock. Change to narrow for more rear grip. Read back a couple of pages about this.
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:39 AM   #3799
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Originally Posted by eper View Post
i dont run concept tires they are very inconsistent to me. besides at the moment i have a partial sponsorship with pro line and live by there tires they are the best for me
I tried MC suburbs today up front. They are pretty good, lots of steering. A TON better than Scrubs that's for sure. They have more steering than the JC Golds, but are a little edgier for me. I think MC is softer than Golds anyway, so that could be why.

Good tire though.
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:16 AM   #3800
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does anyone know of a bleeder shock cap that will fit on the stock shocks for thr rb6?
why would you want a bleeder cap? kyosho shocks are the easiest shocks to bleed as is and always bleed perfectly
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:00 AM   #3801
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why would you want a bleeder cap? kyosho shocks are the easiest shocks to bleed as is and always bleed perfectly
+1 i was always nervous about building shocks (OCD), i'd have to do it 2-3 times before i liked where they were. i build KYO shocks in my sleep now. super easy, super consistent.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:16 AM   #3802
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About to get my RB6 kit, is their any thing in particular that ill need? Also any upgrades I should go ahead and get ?
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:19 AM   #3803
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About to get my RB6 kit, is their any thing in particular that ill need? Also any upgrades I should go ahead and get ?
grab an exotek steering rack for saftey but other than that, the car is solid out of the box.. they beefed up the rear hangers so unless you want the the bling they're not needed.

Really i would just grab the usual spares just in case, however i bet you wont need to dig into them much.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:24 AM   #3804
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Default kyosho RB6 for sale

Brand new/Factory sealed. I am new to this site, but my ebay score is perfect. call me/text me 518-495-0703. Very trusted seller. $410 shpped continental US.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:26 AM   #3805
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About to get my RB6 kit, is their any thing in particular that ill need? Also any upgrades I should go ahead and get ?
The only piece I have broken is the rear camber plate (where the rear inner ball stud attaches). I have seen this piece broken on 3 separate cars (and yes- all 3 were using the set screws on either side of the ball stud), so that might be a good part to carry as a spare as well. I have since installed the exotek aluminum version.
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:44 AM   #3806
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Originally Posted by Troy Mckune View Post
Having come from a B4.1 to an RB6. I run the Jconcepts mono wheels. Both fronts and rears work well. The fronts have an almost identical offset but the wheels have a deeper hex in them. I have had them bind a little with the stock RB6 axles. I just run a Tamiya 1/2mm touring car spacer. I am now switching to the RB5 axles with hexes as most of the local team guys (Joe Pillars, Shuan Dunlap, and Andy Dibrino) have done. The rears have about a 1/2mm deeper offset. So if you do not space them the rear will be about 1mm narrower than with Kyosho wheels.

As far as stock motor gearing. I usually gear 33 or 34/72 using associated or now Avid triad gears. I run full timing on a D3.5.

Troy
What's the reasoning to switch to the Rb5 gear?
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:58 AM   #3807
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Originally Posted by t8rtot View Post
+1 i was always nervous about building shocks (OCD), i'd have to do it 2-3 times before i liked where they were. i build KYO shocks in my sleep now. super easy, super consistent.
I'm having trouble getting way too much rebound in them. Maybe you guys can give me some pointers on exactly how to do them. I try to get them perfect, they just seem to take me way too long. Thanks
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:00 AM   #3808
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I'm having trouble getting way too much rebound in them. Maybe you guys can give me some pointers on exactly how to do them. I try to get them perfect, they just seem to take me way too long. Thanks

I've always used the method shown in this video.
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:13 AM   #3809
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If anyone can help as I am new to this site. If I am selling Kyosho RB6 factory seal. How to post? suggestion. thanks.
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:41 AM   #3810
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Originally Posted by racer x 1 View Post
so ive heard that the rb5 sp2 arms free up the car when running them on the rb6, anyone have any input on this? Just want to know what im getting myself into next time at the track.
I run them on my car on a medium to low grip track. I thought it made the rear much softer. When i first put the arms on the car the rear was rolling over so much i was losing traction so I had to go to a stiffer rear spring and mess with my camber links to take roll out of my car. The car tunes a lot more like a rb5 now.
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