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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-01-2013, 03:56 PM   #3766
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well that sucks. Those rear hubs are pricey.
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Old 01-01-2013, 04:09 PM   #3767
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I guess I should also add that I was running a shorty battery. Woud the full size battery give a little more rear traction and make it a little more stable as well?
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Old 01-01-2013, 04:14 PM   #3768
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it should, since you're adding more weight.

You could try putting in the narrow suspension blocks - the plastic ones come with the kit - these will give you a bit more rear exit grip. I've forgotten what they are marked as though - flick back a few pages. They look exactly the same as the wide blocks, just... narrow...

What sort of track are you on?
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Old 01-01-2013, 04:16 PM   #3769
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
well got to run my car for the first time at the track. Car was pretty good. Def gave it a durablity test and the car held up perfect. I see what everyone is saying about it being aggressive, But I like it. Just need a tick more side bite and a little more foward traction. maybe tame the steering just a tad as well. Didnt look but does the rear toe block have markings on what degree toe it is? I have no idea what I have now but if I had to guess it bet its 3 degress. I wanna try 3.5. Does the 3.5 block come with the kit?
Flipping the steering rack around changes the Ackerman, taming the steering. Then you can shim the balls forward to go back to the stock setting, if later you want more aggressive steering.
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Old 01-01-2013, 04:31 PM   #3770
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Nothing in the kit but there are optional .5 hubs.

Also going to the narrow rear will free it up as well
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Old 01-01-2013, 04:48 PM   #3771
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The car is really close to wear I want it. Just need to calm the steering like I said and just a little more rear traction and it will be deadly. I will say nothing on the track would out steer this car lol. Is flipping the steering rack just as easy as it sounds or does it use more parts? I guess I will order those 55 dollar .5 toe rear hubs lol.
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Old 01-01-2013, 04:55 PM   #3772
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Also going to the narrow rear will free it up as well
No, the wide hangers raise the rear roll center, reducing traction. The narrow will lower the roll center, increasing traction.
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Old 01-01-2013, 04:58 PM   #3773
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Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
The car is really close to wear I want it. Just need to calm the steering like I said and just a little more rear traction and it will be deadly. I will say nothing on the track would out steer this car lol. Is flipping the steering rack just as easy as it sounds or does it use more parts? I guess I will order those 55 dollar .5 toe in rear hubs lol.
Invest in the .5s. I go back and forth constantly, depending on track conditions at the two tracks I race at. If traction is really high, I run the 0s... Traction falls off and I'm having rear traction issues, I may tighten my diff and/or switch to the .5s.
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:01 PM   #3774
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Invest in the .5s. I go back and forth constantly, depending on track conditions at the geo tracks I race at. If traction is really high, I run the 0s... Traction falls off and I'm having rear traction issues, I may tighten my diff and/or switch to the .5s.
Yeah I had the right tires and it was just missing just a tad of rear traction. I think the .5 hubs will do it. Just had to wait for the car to square up to get on the throttle.
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:12 PM   #3775
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Yeah I had they right tires and it was just missing just a tad of rear traction. I think the .5 hubs will do it. Just had to wait for the car to square up to get on the throttle.
hhmm sounds more like a tire/insert issue... Or maybe a weight balance issue? I would start there before going to 3.5 rear toe, as you will sacrifice speed. But if battery placement is good and tires and inserts are properly broken in, then go to the hubs.
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:16 PM   #3776
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hhmm sounds more like a tire/insert issue... Or maybe a weight balance issue? I would start there before going to 3.5 rear toe, as you will sacrifice speed. But if battery placement is good and tires and inserts are properly broken in, then go to the hubs.
I was using m4 suburbs with j concepts foams. One of the local fast guys said run the red aka rear foams. But like I said I was using a shorty pack as well. I think I will try a full size pack first and then put the .5 hubs on. I have a big race saturday so trying to get it all sorted out by then
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:19 PM   #3777
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Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
I was using m4 suburbs with j concepts foams. One of the local fast guys said run the red aka rear foams. But like I said I was using a shorty pack as well. I think I will try a full size pack first and then put the .5 hubs on. I have a big race saturday so trying to get it all sorted out by then
try someone else tires for a couple of laps and rule that out, I always find its a quick way to rule out the tire/insert combo

then try the full size pack

then spend the $$$ on the hubs if you need them
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:32 PM   #3778
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The problem with a modern full sized pack, is the car is already a bit heavy... My car was 200 grams over weight, and it felt slow and numb.... The car is much better closer to minimum weight.
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:11 PM   #3779
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Raising roll center would increase side bite, correct? Hmm

Also try aka foam up front alot of guys sleep on them because they ”heard” they lose traction. However after testing back to back, since the 6 is so aggressive it seems to be the perfect solution.

Give it a try
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:14 PM   #3780
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Raising roll center would increase side bite, correct? Hmm

Also try aka diana up front alot of guys sleep on them because they ”heard” they lose traction. However after testing back to back, since the 6 is so aggressive it seems to be the perfect solution.

Give it a try
aka diana?
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