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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-20-2012, 08:30 AM
  #3526  
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i like supporting members on here who try to help us all.

i look forward to this bit, my plastic piece is a bit worn out.

thank you
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Kraig
So how many of you have strayed from the kit body and tried the others that are on the market? Just curious as to what your findings where.
Haven't yet.. but im already in the mood for some new colors, and I will go with the finnisher. My bet is that they handle very similarly.
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Yeah.. going off the prices listed on your website for just a pair of outdrives, they are more than Kyosho outdrives from Amain. Unless I find somewhere else to buy them, it IS comparing retail to retail.
Since MIP is a Manufacture of the parts our price online is MSRP so its naturally going to be higher than everywhere else because we sell to distributors and distributors sell to LHS. We wan't people to support LHS and online shops. Of course being the manufacture we can drop our prices below that but we want people to support the ones that support us so our prices are higher than anywhere else.

And it is an alternative, we are giving you guys options. The consumer like yourself and anyone else will determine if its a needed upgrade.
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by eper
Shock tool is now available, pm me if interested they are $12 shipped. sorry about last night not having pics i tried to download them with the phone it must not have worked
best tool in my box got mines from Eper years ago, great pick guys get one.
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by MIP MATT
Since MIP is a Manufacture of the parts our price online is MSRP so its naturally going to be higher than everywhere else because we sell to distributors and distributors sell to LHS. We wan't people to support LHS and online shops. Of course being the manufacture we can drop our prices below that but we want people to support the ones that support us so our prices are higher than anywhere else.

And it is an alternative, we are giving you guys options. The consumer like yourself and anyone else will determine if its a needed upgrade.
Are these parts going to be on amain?
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Kraig
So how many of you have strayed from the kit body and tried the others that are on the market? Just curious as to what your findings where.

I've got the Finnisher on my 6, but I'm certainly not a good enough driver to see much difference between the stocker and it. I do like the looks of it better though.
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Are these parts going to be on amain?
To the best of my knowledge yes. Most likely by January this upcoming year
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Old 12-20-2012, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by kwiksi
So the consensus is that the 4 hole pistons are better than the kit 5 hole? What size are the 5 hole? Have blank K pistons. Is 55 bit way to go? Don't have 1.3mm bit.
Just for clarity:

1.3 mm is 0.05118"
#55 Drill is 0.05200"

This difference is 8.82 ten thousands of an inch which is hard if not impossible to measure in delrin.
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Old 12-20-2012, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by wyd
Its just like driving touring cars with bumps!!!!!!!!!!! You should be pretty dialed at The Track as it has lots of rollers and elevation changes so it is more like a touring car than your would think. I'm sure you will get the hang of it. At least you have the left and right things down.
'The Track' does feature some fun and interesting rollers, elevation changes, and off camber turns. However, the jumps have been a nightmare so far. Although they are fairly small compared to the others I've seen at other tracks, I'm still wrecking in spectacular fashion. My crash and burns are eliciting 'oohs and aahs' from the crowd. That being said, I'm getting more comfortable and consistent so at least I'm moving in the right direction. I hope the getting 'faster' part will come soon/eventually.

I'm gonna need to get back to wheeling my TC shortly to get ready for Snowbirds. It'll be nice to run on a smooth and flat carpet track with no jumps. LOL.

Originally Posted by Cpt.America

Yep

yep
TY!!
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Old 12-20-2012, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by jaron_cc
best tool in my box got mines from Eper years ago, great pick guys get one.
thanks jaron the new ones are a tighter tolerance. so they are a little nicer.
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Old 12-20-2012, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by mdowney
One of the team drivers provided me with their most recent setup earlier this month. They've been running it at Hot Rod Hobbies and WCRC. The only thing I'm doing differently is running the rear shocks in the #2 hole instead of standing them all the way up, and I'm running the GHEA 1.3mm 4-hole tapered pistons. I love this setup.
Thanks Mike.
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Old 12-20-2012, 08:22 PM
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Is a good right height setup 24mm? Have a LOSI height gauge
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Old 12-20-2012, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Mxer59
Is a good right height setup 24mm? Have a LOSI height gauge
Depends on your track and traction level! On a medium traction track, 24f 23.5r is a great place to start. On my track, with elevated levels of traction, I run 23f 22.5r.
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Old 12-20-2012, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America
Depends on your track and traction level! On a medium traction track, 24f 23.5r is a great place to start. On my track, with elevated levels of traction, I run 23f 22.5r.
What would you suggest for a shorty pack positioning in RM 17.5 on med - high traction?
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Old 12-21-2012, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by umm winning
What would you suggest for a shorty pack positioning in RM 17.5 on med - high traction?
i've debated alot on this topic. i've got mine in the middle of the car however, with foam, it only take a 30secs to change. start it rear then move it up slowly.

leave your battery holders spaced as far as you can with your layout. really no best answer.
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