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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-11-2012, 11:20 PM   #3301
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I must be missing something as to why your going through all the trouble to use long ball cups cut off etc etc. My battery is setup like yours with the parts from the kit. The kit included parts to set it up just like that.
my bad i didn't realize that . when i first setup my car it was in RM using a long pack
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Old 12-12-2012, 01:36 AM   #3302
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Originally Posted by cnelson3 View Post
the hinge pins that connect the toe blocks have a 2 mm spacer in front of the arms standard. King posted a set up sheet that showed that he put the 2mm spacer behind the arms on those hinge pins thereby moving the arms forward. Not talking about the hub placement at all. I'm interested in what this will do. I have a feeling about what is going to happen but i want to give it a shot.
It works the same as moving hubs forward, its just more of a direct adjustment, while the hub version is more of a tweak. You should see a pretty big change, more than moving just hubs forward. Forward biiiiiiiiite
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Old 12-12-2012, 03:34 AM   #3303
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3) If you get aluminium rear suspension hangers, get the white delrin ball ends.
I've looked around but failed to figure out which white delrin ball ends you are referring to. Do you have a link or parts number for those?

Thanks a lot!
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Old 12-12-2012, 04:35 AM   #3304
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I've looked around but failed to figure out which white delrin ball ends you are referring to. Do you have a link or parts number for those?

Thanks a lot!
LAW32 is the part number:

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/SP-Susp...ZX_p_3690.html
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:55 AM   #3305
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It works the same as moving hubs forward, its just more of a direct adjustment, while the hub version is more of a tweak. You should see a pretty big change, more than moving just hubs forward. Forward biiiiiiiiite
Ill be trying this today!!
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:15 AM   #3306
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Is this the Turnigy Battery you have?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=28647

Please let me know how it is. I was going to get an Orion shorty pack but dont know if it is worth the cost.
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Old 12-12-2012, 08:44 AM   #3307
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Is this the Turnigy Battery you have?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=28647

Please let me know how it is. I was going to get an Orion shorty pack but dont know if it is worth the cost.
I have two of these because the cost is so great, they work great for me always balance correctly plenty of power. The only con I have is the case if you push on side flexes a little, I wrapped some electric tape on both ends to keep it from splitting if it ever became a issue.
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:22 AM   #3308
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So the RB6 is now better than ever... I made some small changes and put down some great consistent laps with it, enough to qualify in 2nd in the A-main and finish 2nd in the A-main at Team AE driver Scott Brown's Tacoma RC Raceway last night, where overall competition is top shelf, second to none. We had enough for a C main in 17.5 last night, and I just wanted to share with you our A-main qualifying grid... I can't say I have ever seen this close of racing at the club level EVER. The entire A-main field, from top to bottom, is separated by 7 seconds total, exactly 1 second per position. This is how tight and competitive the racing is at Tacoma.

Brian Autry was able to squeeze out a flawless run in qual #2 and just squeeze into the 20s by the skin of his wing... I hit ONE snag on back traffic that held me up for about a full second that put me into the #2 slot. After qual #1, we were .1 second apart in qualifying.
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 12-12-2012 at 11:46 AM.
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:16 AM   #3309
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
It works the same as moving hubs forward, its just more of a direct adjustment, while the hub version is more of a tweak. You should see a pretty big change, more than moving just hubs forward. Forward biiiiiiiiite
Don't move the arms forward 2mm, move them 1.5x mm forward. At 2mm, the arms actually hit the chassis. Just barely, but they do. I have arms shimmed forward 1.5mm, and my hubs in the middle, and the car was a LOT better. didn't lose any steering, but the rear end was just a hair more planted on landings and on-throttle.
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Old 12-12-2012, 11:13 AM   #3310
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
So the RB6 is now better than ever... I made some small changes and down some great consistent laps with it, enough to qualify in 2nd in the A-main and finish 2nd in the A-main at Team AE driver Scott Brown's Tacoma RC Raceway last night, where overall competition is top shelf, second to none. We had enough for a C main in 17.5 last night, and I just wanted to share with you our A-main qualifying grid... I can't say I have ever seen this close of racing at the club level EVER. The entire A-main field, from top to bottom, is separated by 7 seconds total, exactly 1 second per position. This is how tight and competitive the racing is at Tacoma.

Brian Autry was able to squeeze out a flawless run in qual #2 and just squeeze into the 20s by the skin of his wing... I hit ONE snag on back traffic that held me up for about a full second that put me into the #2 slot. After qual #1, we were .1 second apart in qualifying.
wow thats a close match up! do you have the setup posted somewhere?
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Old 12-12-2012, 11:51 AM   #3311
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wow thats a close match up! do you have the setup posted somewhere?
Nope, not yet... still a work in progress... have new pistons coming in the mail today, and just got my new Fantom shorty packs yesterday (ran them for the first time last night, and WOW)... so I want to nail down a solid setup before I post it. I just don't know the car well enough at this point. Don't want to send somebody down the wrong path.
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:03 PM   #3312
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What is better for high speed steering 25/0 or 30/0?
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:04 PM   #3313
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What ism better for high speed steering 25/0 or 30/0?
I use 25 never touched that setting even in the 5.
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:33 PM   #3314
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I tried this flipping the steering rack trick I found on Petit/Oople and it made the car easier to drive for me.
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:41 PM   #3315
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Pics?
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