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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-24-2012, 09:26 AM   #2041
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Quote:
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Won't adding clay bump up the weight?
You could try expanding foam, but it could be a MF'er trying to remove.
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Old 10-24-2012, 09:44 AM   #2042
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I am going to try plumbers putty. Any thoughts or personal experience from using it?
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Old 10-24-2012, 09:57 AM   #2043
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I dont have any issues, but I'll look into making a plate at work if I have the time. I'm thinking of an alum plate c'sunk but having the opposite side (chassis side) to have the c'sinks prodruding to fit into the stock c'sunk chassis holes. I'll keep ya updated.
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:05 AM   #2044
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Well, I don't have an RB6, but here is my take on why the rear of the chassis is machined the way it is. As some of you may know, the rear of the chassis, AKA the "t-plate" area, needs to flex to generate traction in a 1/10th scale 2wd buggy. The reason the TLR 22 has a shortcoming in that area is becuase the alloy chassis plate is full thickness all the way back, and the transmission case keys into it perfectly, locking into it and creating a very stiff structure. People think that the 22 raised tranny mod, which increases rear traction, does so due to the change in dogbone plunge. The change in dogbone plunge may have some effect, but what is really happening when you raise the tranny on a 22 is that the structure is "unlocked" and some more flex is introduced.
I was bummed to learn that Kyosho chose to build an alloy chassis car because I had a 22 and I didn't like it, mostly because of the rear traction issues. So I was relieved when I saw that Kyosho did their homework and they machined a lot of relief into the rear of the chassis, so it would be able to flex without raising the tranny. This is why there is a gap around the bottom of the trans case where it protrudes into the chassis plate. Trust me, I'm sure they designed it in Solidworks, Autocad or something similar and making the pocket match the case is actually easier than having to draw up a whole new one. Unfortunatly, they did not anticipate the thin floor of the pocket collapsing in due to chassis slap on uneven surfaces. Anyways, for those of you wondering, that's why the rear of the chassis is so thin, because it needs to be.

I think that the best solution would be to make a plastic insert that fills the gap between the tranny and chassis, without locking it into place. That way it will still function the same.
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:41 AM   #2045
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-img_1063.jpg
Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-img_1065.jpg
Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-img_1066.jpg

Thanks Darkside Designs for the Sick Paint!
Darkside has Chassis Skin guards are on their way!

www.darksidedesigns.net
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:58 AM   #2046
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I am just stoked that the theory I had was accurate.

I think Kyosho will come up with something to fill the gaps. We just have to wait and see. As long as the transmission does not get moved out of its normal position from the dents/bends, then dents will be purely cosmetic.

Maybe I should have stuck with engineering school.
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:12 AM   #2047
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I think something like shoe goo might work as well or rtv silicone or bathroom sealant.... Can be disolved by putting in my acetone bin when needed.
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:34 AM   #2048
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Maybe even E6000. It would be easy to remove. The question is do you put some in and push the case down into it to let it firm up to the perfect shape or try and guess and then install the tranny later. The latter seems sketchy.
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:36 AM   #2049
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Maybe even E6000. It would be easy to remove. The question is do you put some in and push the case down into it to let it firm up to the perfect shape or try and guess and then install the tranny later. The latter seems sketchy.
Something which has a slow cure. Like CF or fiberglass epoxy which becomes tacky after a few minutes? What is E6000?
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:38 AM   #2050
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Wonder if tebo has had this problem with his. Anyone running mid motor have the same issue with their chassis. I still plan on buying one but going to hold off to see what solutions kyosho comes up with
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:50 AM   #2051
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i like the idea of silicone, wax or grease the trani bottom and silicone the recessed area that way it doesn't stick to the trani bottom.

any word on the Avid Triad slipper for the RB6?
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Old 10-24-2012, 12:21 PM   #2052
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Originally Posted by powerslave View Post


Anyone else have this happen?this is after one club race on a blue groove track with no large jumps,maybe mine was machined to thin.

Buggy is awesome,TQ'ed by ten seconds over a 20 buggy field,had some issues on the main due to driver error
I know it's not pretty, but does it affect performance?
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Old 10-24-2012, 12:32 PM   #2053
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I know it's not pretty, but does it affect performance?
I don't think performance is hurt as of now,but the lip at the back cave in could catch I guess.Buggy is dialed was heart broken to see this. Sent to Kyosho,they wanted to see it before they warranty.I find it hard to believe none of there team drivers have seen this happen especially after the hot rods race!
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Old 10-24-2012, 12:33 PM   #2054
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issue fixed
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Last edited by skrichter; 10-24-2012 at 12:55 PM.
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Old 10-24-2012, 01:09 PM   #2055
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Nobody is saying that any kind of chassis tape would help this issue. The two things that we think would help this temporary issue, are

1) Filling in the excess recess area, under the tranny case, with clay (as suggested by kyosho). and/or

2), running a plastic (or whatever material) skid plate over the back of the chassis.
My vote would be the skid plate, would be cleaner then filling the area with any type of goo. I'm totally OCD about my cars and seeing that would put me in a mental ward lol.....
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