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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-17-2012, 11:14 PM   #1726
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Originally Posted by sdnspecial View Post
Just came across this video, its hard to see but the car looks pretty good.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nOuxXJ9Sqw
Now that is what a rhythm section should look like, not the toss your car around and end up on your lid if you don't get it perfect every time like OC/RC's new layout.
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Old 10-17-2012, 11:14 PM   #1727
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Hey bro, confirm it is only 1 piece. I'm building mine now too. Man, I can tell you, you won't regret getting Kyosho product. So easy to fix and all looks good after that! My 1/8 bug and truggy are Kyosho so totally no regret.

I've tried building 2 different car brands and nothing beat Kyosho. Really. The whole thing design with lots of thought to it. Just take the battery compartment in their 1/8. I have no idea why some other car brand think having you screwing 6 to 8 screws just to take out your damn receiver battery is OK!!! But only Kyosho did it nicely (so far based on the other 2 brands ). No doubt xray plastic is way better than Kyosho but still Kyosho plastic is very very good.

Building my first 1/10 and man... I'm really enjoying it and taking my time to enjoy more! When ZX-6 come out, I will sure grab that!

On a separate note, do you need to make holes on 1/10 tires like 1/8?

Quote:
Originally Posted by X God View Post
Well I started the build last night, All that is left is shocks and installing the electronics and the body. 2 problems with the build.The kit was missing a front steering block pin and the battery foam(supposed to be 2 pieces) was 1 single piece. Other then that it was a very easy build.
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Old 10-17-2012, 11:17 PM   #1728
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Originally Posted by drstrangelove View Post
Hey bro, confirm it is only 1 piece. I'm building mine now too. Man, I can tell you, you won't regret getting Kyosho product. So easy to fix and all looks good after that! My 1/8 bug and truggy are Kyosho so totally no regret.

I've tried building 2 different car brands and nothing beat Kyosho. Really. The whole thing design with lots of thought to it. Just take the battery compartment in their 1/8. No doubt xray plastic is way better than Kyosho but still Kyosho plastic is very very good.

I have no idea why some other car brand think having you screwing 6 to 8 screws just to take out your damn receiver battery is OK!!! But only Kyosho did it nicely (so far based on the other 2 brands ).

Building my first 1/10 and man... I'm really enjoying it and taking my time to enjoy more! When ZX-6 come out, I will sure grab that!

On a separate note, do you need to make holes on 1/10 tires like 1/8?
If I had the money (and the time to race 3 classes I would so love to get an Inferno MP9E TK whatever(electric not nitro). I bet that buggy is solid as a rock. I see more of them popping up at OC/RC then I did before. as far as holes go, it's best to use leather punch to punch out a couple of holes in your AKA foams then it is to punch holes in tires and let sand, water, clay, general debis in them. I know they do it at OC/RC. I would like to stay away from the practice of punching holes in the tires myself.
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Old 10-17-2012, 11:27 PM   #1729
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Originally Posted by Damit View Post
I've been loving my RB6 and the disccusions on this thread, but did you know that their are other countries in the world besides the USA, I know shock horror, but for the best prices and parts availability, try RC Champ in Japan (Also where the Kyosho RB6 was made), just email them what you need and they will quote you.
I received my RB6 more than two weeks before anyone in the US and paid $445US including freight to Australia.
You have a PM
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Old 10-17-2012, 11:43 PM   #1730
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Originally Posted by Turbo911 View Post
Wow, thanks for the awesome response. The first twenty parts are almost gone. We are going to make 50 more tonight so as to not run out. Keep the orders coming. Any thoughts on other parts for the RB6, such as an adjustable rear hinge pin holder, aluminum steering arms or anything else that you come up with. Trying to help pay for my R/c addiction.

Kurt
Kurt I sent you a PM to place an order and I never heard back from you. If you have any more available please PM me.
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:10 AM   #1731
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Oh yes, I have a friend who convert his tki2 to electric.

I see thanks for the info on the tire. Just a tought? would it not make the bug/tire way to bouncy if we don't make any holes? I'm aware that dirt will go it but my guess is by the time it gets too dirty inside, you may need to change your tire.

I would love to use AKA, using them on my the other two but I was told the 1/10 track has a close tire (or whatever they call it) and can only use Jconcept Goose Bump. So need to get that brand. Never tried Jconcept tire but I've seen some of the 1/8 Kyosho racer using them so I guess it is OK and I don't have much choices either if I want to race my 1/10.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
If I had the money (and the time to race 3 classes I would so love to get an Inferno MP9E TK whatever(electric not nitro). I bet that buggy is solid as a rock. I see more of them popping up at OC/RC then I did before. as far as holes go, it's best to use leather punch to punch out a couple of holes in your AKA foams then it is to punch holes in tires and let sand, water, clay, general debis in them. I know they do it at OC/RC. I would like to stay away from the practice of punching holes in the tires myself.
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Old 10-18-2012, 12:19 AM   #1732
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Originally Posted by Yeti AS3 View Post
Not being a smart azz...but how does too much grip cause a push?
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Originally Posted by cnelson3 View Post
i'd like to know this too.

Too much of a good thing can provide the opposite result. Front tires that have good grip should provide a lot of steering, but they also depend on the rear tires as well. It sounds as though the slip angle on those tires is pretty narrow so the grip they have is in a narrow range relative to the speed needed.

Maybe too much grip wasnt the best word to use, as it is possible the rear tires are hurting the front end by pushing it passed its slip angle prematurely. That's why tires are so important to find the correct type, compound, and even then how much to wear them in before they really start gripping well.

In short, the rear tires may be to blame.
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Old 10-18-2012, 01:34 AM   #1733
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Originally Posted by drstrangelove View Post
Oh yes, I have a friend who convert his tki2 to electric.

I see thanks for the info on the tire. Just a tought? would it not make the bug/tire way to bouncy if we don't make any holes? I'm aware that dirt will go it but my guess is by the time it gets too dirty inside, you may need to change your tire.

I would love to use AKA, using them on my the other two but I was told the 1/10 track has a close tire (or whatever they call it) and can only use Jconcept Goose Bump. So need to get that brand. Never tried Jconcept tire but I've seen some of the 1/8 Kyosho racer using them so I guess it is OK and I don't have much choices either if I want to race my 1/10.
It isn't so much the holes themselves as to where you place them. I myself put two holes in every set of rims I have just to let the tire breathe, and if I don't hear them breathe, physically holding the tire up to your ear and listening for air coming out, the either then hole is not big enough and needs to be enlarged, or the insert needs a couple of punches with a leather punch. This round of Clay Compound suburbs, I am taking a good pair of AKA closed cell inserts that have been broken in, and punching a couple of holes in them, and mounting on my new Suburb tires I just ordered. Been going through Pro-Line inserts like water lately and am tired of it. Sacrificing an almost brand new set of Jconcepts clay compound Bar Codes to do it (cutting at the inner bead and yanking out the inserts), but since I don't bother going back to the track where only those tires work well doesn't phase me. I wish there was really a 3rd option in tires where I race, but AKA and Panther don't seem to provide the grip I need for medium indoor wet clay. It's jconceots clay bar codes up front, and Pro-Line Suburbs back. Please would a 3rd manufacturer of tires hear my plea for another option, specifically AKA???????? In 8TH scale when I had my VE8 the Jconcets tires again were the only good choice in tires, Had major grip and didn't suffer from wheel spin as much as the Pro-Lines I bought along with the buggy. 8th scale is a totally different beast with all wheels going at the sdame time, need more balance as far as tires go and correct diff fluids (the most impotent). But again its the same thing, same tires, same inserts, boring...... The only good AKA trires I have run so far are the tires they make for indoor clay short course, and I don't like short course.
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Old 10-18-2012, 01:40 AM   #1734
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Originally Posted by Damit View Post
I've been loving my RB6 and the disccusions on this thread, but did you know that their are other countries in the world besides the USA, I know shock horror, but for the best prices and parts availability, try RC Champ in Japan (Also where the Kyosho RB6 was made), just email them what you need and they will quote you.
I received my RB6 more than two weeks before anyone in the US and paid $445US including freight to Australia.
+1
4 day shipment to my door
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Old 10-18-2012, 01:41 AM   #1735
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First batch will be red. Next batch will have black as well. I have many parts coming in the pipeline so the Kyosho red parts will look nice and will compliment the color of the parts on the car now- even the brown shock caps/collars (why brown?)
Too expensive, for the price of one of those racks I can buy 4 stock racks, and I have never broken one. Carbon would have been a better choice. Gunmetal, not brown, and im not dissing your product. There are some things that can be changed, like medium, or long ball studs instead of the short black ones that strip out of the front camber link on the arm. But 30 bucks? how much does it cost in mass volume to do that part?
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Old 10-18-2012, 01:44 AM   #1736
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+1
4 day shipment to my door
Want to sell your FS2 SP?
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:03 AM   #1737
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Want to sell your FS2 SP?
Sorry i couldn't possibly sell my pride and joy. it is dialed at the moment.
(try rc champ) very good for us aussies
cheers
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:04 AM   #1738
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Too expensive, for the price of one of those racks I can buy 4 stock racks, and I have never broken one. Carbon would have been a better choice. Gunmetal, not brown, and im not dissing your product. There are some things that can be changed, like medium, or long ball studs instead of the short black ones that strip out of the front camber link on the arm. But 30 bucks? how much does it cost in mass volume to do that part?
??? I'm not sure if your confusing the private seller with Exotek or what exactly but the part looks to be $15..
http://www.exotekracing.com/rb6-alloy-steering-rack/

And if you want longer ball studs you'll be able to pick those up no problem with the $15 you saved.
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Old 10-18-2012, 04:32 AM   #1739
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Has anyone ran saddle packs in the rear motor set-up
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:20 AM   #1740
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Has anyone ran saddle packs in the rear motor set-up
I did the first time out. Problem is the track was slick as snot and everyone was having issues with traction. gonna try it again Friday. If I still have issues, I'm going to to with a reg pack. I'm also going to move the pack to the middle of the buggy. Overall it was good and jumped and landed like it never jumped, but just couldn't lay down any power...
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