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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0į/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 01-23-2020, 05:43 PM
  #15121  
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Originally Posted by Knockoffracer View Post
Saw the Prizms at the local store last week. Thinking about them for my RB7, and ZX7. Might even give the JC tires a try like I said earlier. It's just an odd thing, at the turf track I occasionally visit, the Wedge Squared tires seem to be the tire to use. The other two tracks I've been to are green and grey carpet.
yea the new proline prism fronts give your car a lot of steering,
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Old 06-02-2020, 08:07 AM
  #15122  
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Originally Posted by Newby Dave View Post
Awesome. Thanks.
I know this is an old thread so I apologize. I wanted to confirm the same esc issue on my ready set 6.6. Braking is only working when there is no reverse selected on the esc. If I move the jumper to activate reverse, there is no brake function. You jump right from full throttle forward into reverse causing spinouts. If you want brakes, you have to give up reverse on this esc. I have tried every adjustment on the radio, no change. Its unfortunate because I barely get track time, so this car was going to be used around my neighborhood on street tires. Really like the car, hate the esc setup.
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Old 06-02-2020, 08:44 AM
  #15123  
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Originally Posted by gkott78 View Post
I know this is an old thread so I apologize. I wanted to confirm the same esc issue on my ready set 6.6. Braking is only working when there is no reverse selected on the esc. If I move the jumper to activate reverse, there is no brake function. You jump right from full throttle forward into reverse causing spinouts. If you want brakes, you have to give up reverse on this esc. I have tried every adjustment on the radio, no change. Its unfortunate because I barely get track time, so this car was going to be used around my neighborhood on street tires. Really like the car, hate the esc setup.
Iíll check mine tonight. There should always be a brake function.
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Old 06-02-2020, 09:05 AM
  #15124  
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Originally Posted by Billy Kelly View Post
Iíll check mine tonight. There should always be a brake function.
I agree 100%. I had been running the car outside down the street, hit what I thought was the brake, and it just spun out. This happened numerous times. I put it up on my work bench, and tested the jumper in both positions. With no reverse, braking is perfect. Putting the jumper on reverse, the ESC goes from full throttle forward right into reverse, no braking, no double tape on the radio for brake then reverse.

I'm actually thinking about selling it as I never run it. It has seen a carpet track twice, and a few street runs. Carpet was rough on the readyset version, 1st time out I snapped tie rod links. Replaced them with Lungsford titanium links, and it was fine after that. I've had it sitting in my basement for almost 2 years now, and it might have 4 battery packs through it.
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Old 06-02-2020, 09:30 AM
  #15125  
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Originally Posted by gkott78 View Post
I agree 100%. I had been running the car outside down the street, hit what I thought was the brake, and it just spun out. This happened numerous times. I put it up on my work bench, and tested the jumper in both positions. With no reverse, braking is perfect. Putting the jumper on reverse, the ESC goes from full throttle forward right into reverse, no braking, no double tape on the radio for brake then reverse.

I'm actually thinking about selling it as I never run it. It has seen a carpet track twice, and a few street runs. Carpet was rough on the readyset version, 1st time out I snapped tie rod links. Replaced them with Lungsford titanium links, and it was fine after that. I've had it sitting in my basement for almost 2 years now, and it might have 4 battery packs through it.
It doesnít take much to spin out a 2wheel buggy. Rear only brakes. Or is it going straight to reverse?
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Old 06-02-2020, 10:46 AM
  #15126  
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Originally Posted by Billy Kelly View Post
It doesnít take much to spin out a 2wheel buggy. Rear only brakes. Or is it going straight to reverse?
Yes, I have the 6.6 Readyset and the same was happening. A Kyosho-sponsored driver at my track confirmed that the car goes from from forward straight to Reverse, no Brake. The only way to activate Brake is to deactivate Reverse.
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Old 06-02-2020, 01:43 PM
  #15127  
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Originally Posted by JCG1 View Post
Yes, I have the 6.6 Readyset and the same was happening. A Kyosho-sponsored driver at my track confirmed that the car goes from from forward straight to Reverse, no Brake. The only way to activate Brake is to deactivate Reverse.
Thank you for confirming. I thought something was wrong with my esc.
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Old 06-02-2020, 05:17 PM
  #15128  
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Yup. I just tried mine with reverse on. It did stop but then started to back up. I’ve only run in no reverse mode. I’m somewhat used to the no reverse as it common on the race side. I do remember noticing the brake very different from my Xray.


2wheel buggy are always gonna be a struggle to drive on pavement.
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Old 06-29-2020, 01:27 PM
  #15129  
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I saw this forum and was wondering if anyone could help me. I recently purchased two bugies. They are both kyosho rb6.6. I think one maybe a readyset that has been upgraded and the other maybe an ultima rb6.6. I am coming back to the hobby from a 5 year hiatus. I also do not know a ton about kyosho buggies and wondering if someone could explain exacxtly what I have. I know a few things about them but was looking for more info. I would really appretiate it if you could give me some info on the buggies!

Pics Below: (I can not post links yet because I am new to the forum but here it is split up)

https:
//drive.
google.
com/drive
/folders/1UyGHyT2nv-2C66cmx4GBcf_feePnEvDn?usp=sharing

_________________________
Kyosho Rb6.6 / Reedy SC550 / Traxxas 550 titan 12.5t / SMC 4400
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Old 06-29-2020, 01:46 PM
  #15130  
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They do both look like RB 6.6 chassis and not the readysets. The one with electronics has the 4 gear standup transmission, which works best for dirt/mod classes. The one without electronics has some RB7 parts on it: rear waterfall (brace going from transmission to chassis and front arms. This one also has the laydown transmission set up for three gear. This is the setup for most uses and will be best on turf or carpet.

If you pop the rear driveshafts off and peek inside the outdrives, you should be able to tell if you have gear or ball differentials. If you see a nut on one side and a hex screw head on the other, it's a ball. I you do not see either, it should be a gear diff. Gear is best for carpet/turf, ball best for dirt.
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Old 06-29-2020, 02:18 PM
  #15131  
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dmcguire Thank you! What exactly are the benifits of having a ball diff on dirt than having a gear diff? Also, I am looking at upgrading the one with the 4 gear standup to brushless. I am looking at (Hobbywing XR10 Juststock Brushless ESC/SD G2.1 Motor Combo) in a 17.5t. Would that be a nice companion to the car. I am also looking at some jconcepts goosebumps for the rear and bar codes for the front. Would that be a nice combo to run on a loose outdoor clay track (Lake park rc track). I really appretiate your help!

Last edited by Sizzleman1; 06-29-2020 at 03:45 PM.
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Old 06-29-2020, 04:26 PM
  #15132  
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I don't have personal experience Hobbywing, but a bunch of my race friends do and love them. I would guess you'll be fine with that combo. They have the bluetooth interface too that you can use a smartphone to tune it with.

If you're running on a loose clay track, for sure start with the ball diff and try the 4 gear standup to start. I'm no expert by any means, but I've noticed the ball diff is just way smoother and more consistent on dirt. The problem is it wears out and needs rebuilds and adjustments.

The gear diff is much more durable and "theoretically" easier to tune and maintain. So long as you're using the same brand and weight of diff fluid from rebuild to rebuild, you should have a consistent diff. If you put thinner fluid in, you'll have a looser diff and thicker fluid = tighter diff.

Any readings I've done on the gear diff says it locks up on power, giving more forward drive and off power they unload and cause the car to rotate more. This unloading/rotating on low-bite can make the car a handful.

Another thing to notice on your two cars is where the rear shocks are. Again, on loose dirt, start with the car you have electronics in, it should give you more rear bite and be better on the loose surface having the shocks behind the rear tower. You can run the laydown transmission with the shocks behind the shock towers too. It's all just another tuning tool.

And check with the local fast guys on what tires they are running. Tread and compound. That will make your day way easier starting with right tire.

Check out this site and utilize both the RB6 and RB7 setup sheets, they're for the most part the same car: Setup Sheet Data Base
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Old 07-30-2021, 02:45 PM
  #15133  
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I picked up a used rb6.6 to get into 2wd stock -- I've got an Orion Ultimate Stock motor and I picked up a Justock Xerun xr10 ESC just to keep things on a budget to make sure this is something that I want to do long-term before dumping too much cash into it.

Anyway, it came with a 76t spur gear, which means I want a 12 or 13 spur to hit ~6fdr.

I'm new to brushless and timing (my last buggy was a Hornet in 1987...), so I'm not sure hat I should do here for gearing. The reccomendations I've seen are:

17.5 / 20-30 degrees of end bell timing
Spur - 69
Pinion -30-32

17.5 / 0 -20 degrees of end bell timing
Spur - 69
Pinion - 33-34

...but I've got a 76. Is that just too damn big for this motor?
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Old 07-31-2021, 09:27 AM
  #15134  
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Originally Posted by Raketemensch View Post
I picked up a used rb6.6 to get into 2wd stock -- I've got an Orion Ultimate Stock motor and I picked up a Justock Xerun xr10 ESC just to keep things on a budget to make sure this is something that I want to do long-term before dumping too much cash into it.

Anyway, it came with a 76t spur gear, which means I want a 12 or 13 spur to hit ~6fdr.

I'm new to brushless and timing (my last buggy was a Hornet in 1987...), so I'm not sure hat I should do here for gearing. The reccomendations I've seen are:

17.5 / 20-30 degrees of end bell timing
Spur - 69
Pinion -30-32

17.5 / 0 -20 degrees of end bell timing
Spur - 69
Pinion - 33-34

...but I've got a 76. Is that just too damn big for this motor?
You really need to get a 69. Gearing isn't easy with a 76 and I'm not sure if there is enough adjustment for that.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-...qeqawqhmzcqctz

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Old 02-17-2023, 10:24 PM
  #15135  
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Hi, does anyone knows if ZX5 arms will work on an rb6?
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